Hi9, Marlin, D20 output, rant and questions

[ctowery]

I am into my Marlin Crawler install :-X what a major pain..nothing sofar is going smoothly. 1st the shiftfork has to be modified, then missing parts, the supplied new crossmember will need to be remade. I will need to make a new AOD-Marlin coupler at a cost of $400.00=-[!]. Its that or pull the trans and dissemble$$$$$ to install a new output shaft.

Anyway...I fell better now so to my question. I am going to order a Hi9 and a new D-20 output, should I get them with 1310 or 1350's? I will need new driveshafts so nows the time to do it right. I am leaning to the 1350's since bigger is better ...right[]

Same time I just as well go to 35 spline axels, then I can sell the Currie diff with the Detroit and 31 spline axels as a package.
What do ya all think?

Thanks, Cary

 

[kb6677]

your 1350's and 35spline

I have to agree with you. When we built my rig a few years back we went with the "upgrade" output shaft on the Atlas that had just come out, 1350 on both ends and 35spline axles in the rear Tera60R housing. I have run 42s, 40s and currently 39Krawlers on it and so far no problems with those components. I would say money well spent-epsecially if you can recoup some by selling your 31spline stuff. Always easy to encourage other people to spend their money !!
HTH,
Karl Bradley
NC
ebsss

 

[SaddleUp]

I went with a 1330 CV at the top and a 1350 joint at the bottom on mine. Whatever you do don't try to run a 1310/1350 conversion joint at the bottom. Mine lasted through one trip and then on the next trip it broke. When it did I put the right 1350 slip yoke in for a regular 1350 joint. On the next trip the upper 1310 CV self destructed so I bought a driveline blank with 1330 joints and the t-case yoke to fit them. I run a NP 205 though so it was easy to get the 1330 yoke since Big Broncos used them. (I.E. I was able to use a stock application) To fit the Dana 20 it might be harder or even impossible to find a stock application so it may need to be special order. If it needs to be special order then I would look at going with 1350 for the entire driveline as long as the maximum angle it can be run at is at least as much as the 1330.

 

[ctowery]

I can get 1350 yokes with the Hi9 and the HD D20 output so the rear ds is figgered out. The front is a little ?:? , the 44 can take a 1350 yoke but what about the frt D20 output? Sure be nice if someone would make a HD one like they do for a 300. If I do go with a 1350 frt ds will the tube have to be larger? The one I have know is a smaler dia cause of the AOD. Guess I will probably have driveshafts to sell also. I need to find someone that needs all this stuff and make a package deal

Cary

 

[BRONKEN]

Call Jesse at High Angle Driveline. He can make what ever you want and he is very knowledgable.

 

[SaddleUp]

I can get 1350 yokes with the Hi9 and the HD D20 output so the rear ds is figgered out. The front is a little ?:? , the 44 can take a 1350 yoke but what about the frt D20 output? Sure be nice if someone would make a HD one like they do for a 300. If I do go with a 1350 frt ds will the tube have to be larger? The one I have know is a smaler dia cause of the AOD. Guess I will probably have driveshafts to sell also. I need to find someone that needs all this stuff and make a package deal

Cary

Most of the ends can be purchased in smaller diameters so you might be able to get them with the right size. My rear driveline with 1330 CV and 1350 rear is the same diameter as a stock one. FWIW, I still run the stock 1310 stuff in front and have only worn out one CV joint. (The center of the CV rather than the joints) I think part of the reason for that though is that my front driveline is at a lot less of an angle than the back. As far as wearing it out I was running a 33" tire on the front and 37" tires on the other 3 wheels and I think that was the weak point. Naturally I only had it in 4WD for the tuff stuff but nevertheless that was when it gave up. When I swapped the drivleine it was still working but making noise.

 

[ctowery]

:-X Another problem , My axel spring mounts were welded in at 27.5* and the Hi9 says to keep the pinion angle at 15*!!! I am beginning to go nuts! Maybe I should just sell the complete rear end... seems easyer that takeing apart rewelding ect ect.

Cary

 

[Nobody]

Since you are installing the marlin, I'd recommend the 1350's as they allow more angle, and they they can handle the the added torque from lower gears.

Personally, I run 1310's front and rear, and have never had u-joint problems. I've worn out the front CV once because of my driveline angle. I have a HP44 that I'm going to put in to fix that problem.

edit: and for the rear, I'd recommend a 35 spline dana 60 with 9" ends. It's cheaper to build than a 9" and more pinion clearance than a standard 9". With disc brakes, its' not really any heavier than a 9". I know it's hard for some folks to consider, but it really is the way to go if you are a wheeler.

 

[SaddleUp]

edit: and for the rear, I'd recommend a 35 spline dana 60 with 9" ends. It's cheaper to build than a 9" and more pinion clearance than a standard 9". With disc brakes, its' not really any heavier than a 9". I know it's hard for some folks to consider, but it really is the way to go if you are a wheeler.

Plus it hangs down a couple of inches lower in the center so you can drag it on the rocks more. %)

 

[Nobody]

Plus it hangs down a couple of inches lower in the center so you can drag it on the rocks more. %)

Pfffft....whatever dude. I never get hung up ;D I mean %)

 

[ctowery]

Pfffft....whatever dude. I never get hung up ;D I mean %)

Got ROCKS %) ;D

Cary

 

[Nobody]

Got ROCKS %) ;D

Cary

I've got one in my front yard does that count?

Seriously though, a 9" maybe has an inch more clearance than a 60, and less than that once you grind off the lip that hangs down off the 60.

 

[BRONKEN]

You can also shave the bottom of a 9" to get more clearance. %)

 

[Nobody]

You can also shave the bottom of a 9" to get more clearance. %)

Well you can shave a 60 too...but that's not what I'm talking about. There is a little lip that hangs off the 60, that you can grind off.

 

[SaddleUp]

Well you can shave a 60 too...but that's not what I'm talking about. There is a little lip that hangs off the 60, that you can grind off.

Comparing untouched housings the Dana 60 hangs down about 1 1/2" lower than a 9". Even if you grind the lip off it will still be a bit more than an inch. If you shave both then the 9" will still have a couple of inches more clearance. Add to this the stronger gears in the 9" and it is easy to see where it is better. If you really want to put together a hybrid for the rear then the opposite route would be the way to go. I.E. 9" center section with dana 60 full floater ends. You would get the clearance and stronger gears plus the axles would be full floating with the larger Dana 60 wheel bearings.

 

[Nobody]

Well, if I get enough energy, I might do some tire swapping and get some good numbers.

Regardless, I don't have problems hanging up. Usually if I get hung up, it's major.

Heck, different brand tires of the same size can vary up to an inch or more. It's really not the big deal y'all make it out to be.