Holley sniper progressive linkage

[Calibronc66]

Got my motor broke in and been driving the bronco, as much as I can with the heat we have. It runs great but I’ve started to notice my right calf getting bigger due to the stiff gas pedal. Wanted to know if changing out to the progressive linkage would help relieve some of this? Anyone else have this issue and change over to the progressive linkage to eliminate opening the secondary’s till half throttle?


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[chuckji]

I used the progressive link for a while, it was ok but my issue was a touchy throttle. I have a manual transmission and coming off a stop was on the verge of chirping the tires every time.
From what I’ve seen on the Holley forums, there have been a lot of mixed results with the progressive link.
I’ve since switched to the throttle extension and from what I’ve heard, this is also the fix for a stiff throttle.

https://www.efisystempro.com/sniper...nts/sniper-efi-throttle-extension-lever-20-16

 

[chuckji]

What linkage are you using between the accelerator pedal and Sniper? How about the throttle return spring?

 

[Calibronc66]

I’m using the lokar cable had no problems with it on the old
Motor and an edelbrock carb


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[Broncobowsher]

Can't say it really changed the efforts. If I am really paying attention I can feel when the back linkage starts opening (47% throttle for me).

What it did get me was drivability. If that sore calf is from trying to feather the throttle off idle, or because you have a way tall linkage with a lot of pedal stroke, yes the linkage is a good fix. I can drive it better at 12% throttle instead of trying to drive a 5%. Naturally the throttle moves around a little, going from 4-5-6% was the difference between slowing down, holding speed, accelerating. Now I can cruise at 11-12-13% and hold a pretty stable speed on a flat road. I can pull away from a stop without barking the tires. The throttle is no longer an on/off switch at idle.

Holley really should have made the progressive linkage standard. And on the Q-jet version it does have standard progressive linkage. Just not the standard 4-barrel version. At least it can be had. Not expensive, totally worth it.

Another thing to look at is the angle of the linkage. From the centerline of the throttle shaft you want the linkage to be about a 45° angle. At half throttle, 90°. Full throttle 45° the other way. If the angle tips too far forward at idle it can make for a stiff effort and a touch idle. This can be affected by where the pivot ball is located on the throttle arm and a little on the linkage aimed at it.

 

[chuckji]

I’m using the lokar cable had no problems with it on the old
Motor and an edelbrock carb


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Maybe the extra leverage of the throttle extension would help.
You can actually make one yourself with a piece of aluminum and a couple of screws.

 

[Calibronc66]

I have the adjustable sitting on the work bench. From what I can see it looks pretty easy to install. So you set yours up at 47% I was thinking anywhere around 50%


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[Broncobowsher]

Couple more thoughts/comments...

A long time ago I was setting up a carb linkage. I wanted good control of the throttle. So I made it a long travel throttle. Did the linkage extension. By the time I was done the throttle pedal sat really high to have full travel. That did cause lag cramps. The pedal sat so high the leg was at an unnatural position and after a little driving the leg was hurting. Going back to a more stock linkage and a normal throttle height fixed that problem. I'm not a fan of an extended arm to slow down the throttle opening. Don't forget to check for full throttle and adjust the linkage for that.

As for the progressive linkage giving drivability issues (instead of fixing them), I'll start with user error. I had a drivability issue at first, somehow I screwed up setting the Sniper to progressive mode. I held the secondary shut, watched the programmer and noted the 47% when the linkage hit. Thought I programmed it. Drove horrible. Was going through the setup and realized I didn't have the progressive turned on. That fixed it. I bet a lot of people with drivability issues didn't read the instructions (or follow them) for setting up the programming.