How is your custom rear bumper mounted to the frame?

[hammer]

Well got my mounts built yesterday and the receiver mounted into the bumper;

Bumper inserts;

Managed to get the nuts welded in there, at least half way around them;

Inserted;

Front/bottom of receiver;

Rear of receiver;

Now I know why these custom bumper bumpers cost so much. Its a hell of a lot of work.

 

[firehawk]

Well got my mounts built yesterday and the receiver mounted into the bumper;

Bumper inserts;

Managed to get the nuts welded in there, at least half way around them;

Inserted;

Front/bottom of receiver;

Rear of receiver;

Now I know why these custom bumper bumpers cost so much. Its a hell of a lot of work.

If you take a wire brush to your welds before the photos it looks tons better, like a professional did it. Well almost.

 

[Steve83]

Looks good, but it also looks like the pin hole is pretty close to the welds - are you gonna be able to put one thru there? What about a locking pin? And I hope you only got front & rear mixed in your description... The reinforcing ring on the receiver goes to the REAR.

 

[dube]

Lots of procity in them welds. Holes, dirty steel or not enough gas. Or you flux welded it on a windy day.

 

[73azbronco]

How much weight you gonna be towing? I'm concerned that rear frame isn't made for more than 3500# tow capacity.

 

[hammer]

How much weight you gonna be towing? I'm concerned that rear frame isn't made for more than 3500# tow capacity.

Towing a 1800lb tent trailer. 2500lb loaded.

 

[hammer]

Looks good, but it also looks like the pin hole is pretty close to the welds - are you gonna be able to put one thru there? What about a locking pin?

Yes I can get a locking pin through there;

And I hope you only got front & rear mixed in your description... The reinforcing ring on the receiver goes to the REAR.

What? Your telling me this should be on the rear?

That's backwards of every hitch ever made but if that's what you're refering to thanks for the advise?

 

[hammer]

Lots of procity in them welds. Holes, dirty steel or not enough gas. Or you flux welded it on a windy day.

Thanks for the feedback. I had never heard that term before. Was able to find this on a google search; http://www.ndt.net/article/v07n07/ginzel_e/ginzel_e.htm Will definatly help me in the future. I'm using a millermatic 130 with an argon/co2 bottle. I'm finding it a bit trickier than my old lincoln. Most of the time the porosity happens when I'm poorly positioned or moving to fast. The difference between it happening and not happening is ever so suttle. I find just moving the piece to ensure I'm comfortable and am able to move well helps the most.

 

[hammer]

Well bumper is finished up. Seeing as how this is the third time I've built it I hope I got it how I want it this time.

Started again by welding the mounts to the bumper;

Then i ended up triangulating those;

Next was cutting a 2 1/8" hole through the bumper and sleeving it with some pipe to make a mounting hole for the 7 way plug;

To back up the story a bit, while I was cutting all the old stuff off the bumper I was whacking the old reciever off with a BFH and the vibrations ended up snapping the weld of the swing out where it attached to the pivot. Not cool. Wasn't my weld was the P.O., I had origianly bought the bumper used of a guy in Washington. Anyways cleaned it up and welded it back on thankful that it gave way on the bench and not on the highway with a 38" tire attached to it. When welding it back on the the pivot was a bit of a tricky situation. It seemed to melt very easily. This had me concerned as when the weld broke it broke clean off the pivot and there was good penetration. So I decided to make a mount on the other side as well just as a second percaution. made a handle that theads into a mount on the back side of the swing out;

Lastly I cleaned up the pivot by adding a piece of sheet metal around it, welded it to the top of the bumper and then to the front of the pivot. Then took a body hammer and shaped it around, cut it off and welded it up. Looks a lot better.

Here is the finished product all painted up and mounted;

Now on to wiring a brake controller and the 7 way plug.....

 

[tankhunter]

i dont have any pictures that would show this but rather than drill and tapping the hole i welded a round sleeve inside my 2x4 tube so you cant crush it when tighting the bolts and i drilled the hole all the way through the frame and used long grade 8 bolts and lock nuts.its very similar to how the steering box is fastened to frame it will be much stronger than seperate bolts on each side of the frame

If I do what I have drawn in post #5 do you think that i could just drill and tap the 2x4 and bolt it in? Its 1/4" wall.

like this?;