• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

How & Where to Graft Back End of One EB to Another?

bulletpruf

Contributor
Full Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2019
Messages
440
Loc.
San Antonio, TX
Fellas -

I have a crusty '72 with a good drivetrain and frame and a solid '67 tub. I'd like to use parts of the '67 tub to replace the bad sheetmetal on the '72,

I'm thinking I'd like to splice them together at the front door posts, since the door posts and rockers (and everything to the rear of that) on the '72 are rusty.

Anyone have any tips on how to go about this?

thanks

Scott
 

Attachments

  • 61504552798__A8C056D5-8089-4D10-8FC1-62EA28491294.jpg
    61504552798__A8C056D5-8089-4D10-8FC1-62EA28491294.jpg
    208.8 KB · Views: 108
  • IMG_3335.jpg
    IMG_3335.jpg
    131.9 KB · Views: 110
  • DSCN4191.jpg
    DSCN4191.jpg
    115 KB · Views: 109

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
messing with the front posts are the most difficult and has to be perfect or you will be fighting a big uphill battle. any reason to not use the whole 67 tub?
 

Crush

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
May 30, 2007
Messages
3,463
Loc.
Greenbottom, WV
Why is that not an option. It would be easier and less work. And in the end you would have a whole body that wasnt pieced together. Just sayin
 

martinphoto

Jr. Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Messages
93
I did it on my first bronco. Or I should say I re-did it. When I bought the bronco it was spliced together right at the rear door posts straight across the front of the bed. It was brazed (welded)at the bottom of the door post. The rocker panels were replaced and brazed in place. Across the bed they had used a 3x3 piece of angle iron underneath and used sheet metal screws to hold it in place. Then just fiberglassed over the top inside. Nothing fit right. Doors, hardtop etc.
But the good was it was nearly rust free and I only paid $975 for the entire running bronco.
I wound up cutting it in half again and mig welding it in place after tons of bracing and cross bracing to hold in place with the doors and hard top installed and lined up. I fabbed up a hat channel that matched the ones under the body from the factory to go underneath the body where the angle iron had been. Then I welded the seam across the floor on top. Came out ok but not perfect by any means. That was 25 yrs ago. I sold it a year later. There a newer better more affordable tools out today that would have made it much easier.
 

chrlsful

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 21, 2009
Messages
1,432
same w/Martin. In '95 after 15 yrs of use in the woods (my income) the body split at the 3rd body mounts. I think this is the same place. That area somewhere. I remember after "re- connecting" (places a "U" or C channel cross the whole body, it was hard to put in the WH 1 inch new body mounts (R they 1.25 inch?). So if I can do it you can. Also the bronk can as I continued to skid logs up to the neighbor's band saw mill from then (& B4) nother 20 yrs till '17 when I converter it to a st rig (C below sig).
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
35,628
So you want to destroy a good body to splice parts onto a bad body. Body swap makes way more sense. VIN is on the frame. Keep your old dash or at least the glovebox for another matching VIN.

If you can't use the good body we really want to hear the story behind that.
 

1970 Palmer

Full Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2020
Messages
455
So you want to destroy a good body to splice parts onto a bad body. Body swap makes way more sense. VIN is on the frame. Keep your old dash or at least the glovebox for another matching VIN.

If you can't use the good body we really want to hear the story behind that.

LOL, Right to the point!

John
 

chrlsful

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 21, 2009
Messages
1,432
its ridiculous these days ($).

The main thing I don't like abt this idea is it reduces the number of these rare ol rigs. 30 yrs ago mine wuz falling apart & I took 3 more to put it back together. Every single one was restored as well. I like that (again all done B4 the prices got stooopid). Plez don't trash the spares. Many take what U think is garbage and bring it back (hobbyists). The '60s TV show

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azEOeTX1LqM

don't care, it's not so much abt the rig as it is the $. That's been goin on 4ever, not just bronks.
 
OP
OP
bulletpruf

bulletpruf

Contributor
Full Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2019
Messages
440
Loc.
San Antonio, TX
The cowl is rusty on the '67, so I was thinking it made more sense to splice.

I need to do a bit more inspecting and disassembly before I make a final call.

Thanks for all the input. I really appreciate it.
 

chrlsful

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 21, 2009
Messages
1,432
between 1st set of B.mounts and nxt (drivers/pass Fl) is a known weakness. Esp w/o fenders.
If U take the body unsupported there, ur doors will never fit again (w/o alota wrk). I am not a body man so can not vouch 4 this, but all ways did as I wuz told (a good lill boy !) and have no had trouble w/the 3 or 4 wrked on over the last 38 yrs. Good Luck~
 

Crush

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
May 30, 2007
Messages
3,463
Loc.
Greenbottom, WV
it would probably be easier to replace the cowl on the 67 tub while it is gutted and then switch complete bodies. just my $0.02!! have a great experience in which ever direction you go
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
I would rather rebuild the cowl than deal with door posts but that is up to you its your money.
 

markw

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 10, 2009
Messages
2,053
The cowl is easy. What you're asking about is difficult.
 
Top