I bought a donor vehicle for my 5.0 EFI Swap!!!

[msweb]

Steve - I think what Anthony is trying to say is that our application is different from what you're thinking and we're not trying to swap over emission control devices hence thats not a direction we need to go in. As he said, we're simply swapping the intake manifold for hood clearance issues, nothing else.

Because my headers and the EGR aren't compatible, I wanted to know if I could delete it. That's it, not follow a link that takes me to a lecture on emissions which ended with a slap in the face saying to me, "there's no reason to start ripping & shredding what you don't comprehend. You're more likely to HURT the engine & make it perform WORSE than to solve any symptom you've noticed... If you've ripped out a bunch of random vacuum lines & weird parts, you'll probably find it VERY difficult to get helpful suggestions over the internet since NO ONE (including YOU) will know what you've screwed up."

Although you were merely trying to be helpful and share your honest opinion, the answer took things in a whole new direction where we were hoping for a simple yes or no. I know, things aren't always simple...

For myself, the thought of installing a cat on a 74 Bronco is ridiculous. Apparently, Anthony feels the same way and I believe that is where his post stemmed from as far as advice not being helpful. Granted, is was rather harsh but I believe he was trying to be polite if not a little blunt. It'd been a very long and frustrating day for both of us and I think the hours were starting to take their tole on both of us.

So........ No harms, no fouls, lets get back to this engine swap, shall we?

 

[msweb]

Thermactor was equipped on non Calif cars back in '68. They didnt have cats then. Unless your state requires any emmissions, get rid of it all. Seriously keep reading and looking at your components and reading some more before getting too deep in teardown. Its so easy to rip everything apart and then the project ends up "R.I.P" The stock truck injectors are same as HO Mustang. You shouldnt need to change much more than fuel rail and upper/lower intakes from the car. Tbird/Cougar standard or HO motors have throttle body mounted to the passanger side. Pull all of the needed swap over parts from same vehicle. Stay with speed density and truck wiring unless you want to acquire all of the complete wiring from the donor car. If its a Tbird/ Cougar, I will warn you now, its a major pain to remove the whole harness completely intact. Then the majority of it will get chunked. You need to get a wiring diagram of the donor truck and compare to the generic RJM diagram. Not really that much is different. MAP instead of MAF and BAP, and fewer wires for injectors.

You got it, that's pretty much what we're doing and yes, thanks to a scholarly young man bored in class, we even have the wiring diagrams for the F150 for comparison. I believe we're doing a pretty simple swap at this point by retaining the Speed Density along with everything else and yes, the injectors are the same - I think. I hesitate to say that for sure only because I believe the ones in the truck were orange and black rather than just orange. Whatever the case, we're using the truck injectors and fuel rail. Only the upper and lower intake is being used from the Cougar.

About the only question at this point is whether or not we can delete the EGR so I don't have to drill and tap or weld a bung into my beautiful satin JetHot coated headers? I'll make a block off plate out of aluminum to cover the EGR port on the intake similar to a mechanical fuel pump block off and leave the sensor plug unattached?

 

[trailpsycho]

Yes, you can do the block plate. There is a resistor available through RJM and other places to plug into the EGR plug on the harness, this tells the computer that everything is Otay. No need to hurt the headers. You can put your O2 sensors in the collector(s). Hope that helps a little. Glad your taking the steps forward...if you have the extra $, you can send your harness off to Kolibar and have them strip it, tease out the unnecessaries and return it with only a 3 wire hook-up to your main harness. Money vs time/money...it ends up about the same... All reports are they do a good job. There is also a guy on ebay.

There is good learning to be had from doing your own, as well. Hang in there and keep at it.

 

[mcdobson]

I notice a lot of people using trucks and Crown Vic's etc.. for donor vehicles and putting on the Mustang intakes. I always see a number of 5.0 Mustangs on Craig"s list for $500.00 to $2000.00.
Are the Mustangs not good for donors for some reason or are there just a lot of 5.0's around Sacramento.

 

[msweb]

I'm absolutely sick!

So much for my good deal on the donor truck. Anthony pulled the lower intake today so we could mount the intake from the Cougar and hook everything back up. That was the plan until we saw this... I don't think the PO ever changed the oil in his life! The sludge is so bad that I'm amazed that the motor ran. Now what? No more funds for another donor vehicle or a complete rebuild/machine shop bill so....... I'm going to clean it up the best I can, put it all back together and run it, changing the oil about ever other week...

I don't have access to a hot tank or the time/money to totally disassemble the motor other than pull the heads and oil pan. That said, what's the best way to clean what I can? How about the oil passages? Would degreaser/brake cleaner affect the integrity of pistons?

 

[msweb]

I notice a lot of people using trucks and Crown Vic's etc.. for donor vehicles and putting on the Mustang intakes. I always see a number of 5.0 Mustangs on Craig"s list for $500.00 to $2000.00.
Are the Mustangs not good for donors for some reason or are there just a lot of 5.0's around Sacramento.

89-93 Mustangs make fantastic donors and are in fact the more desirable followed by Explorers. I just couldn't find one and am in a time crunch so I went with the F150. Turns out this one was a bad mistake..........

 

[msweb]

Leaving the heads, crank and pistons in tact, anyone ever pressure wash an engine then coat everything in oil so it doesn't rust?

I need some ideas, even if it involves my shop vac!

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Yes , but not intact like that.

I'd be afraid of water getting where the WD40 didn't , like main and rod bearings for example. I don't think they would work very well with a rust spot on the journal.

 

[Steve83]

Because my headers and the EGR aren't compatible...

My point was: with the car intake, the EGR has nothing to do with the headers. You could leave it in place and either abandon it as a blockoff, or make it work if you want to.

...a slap in the face saying to me...

That article was written a LONG time ago; not specifically for or at you. If it doesn't apply to your build: no problem. Mr. Friendly didn't need to butt in.

I notice a lot of people using trucks and Crown Vic's etc.. for donor vehicles and putting on the Mustang intakes.

The CV & regular Mustang use the same intake - it just faces the other way.

Are the Mustangs not good for donors for some reason...

They get driven a lot harder, and the car cam isn't as good for a truck's weight & uses.

That said, what's the best way to clean what I can? How about the oil passages? Would degreaser/brake cleaner affect the integrity of pistons?

Berryman's B-12 Chemtool aerosol will eat that stuff away, and only caustic chemicals would hurt the pistons. Any cleaner short of Ajax/Borax/Lye is OK, but brake cleaner won't do much other than remove water. Gunk Engine Brite (not foamy) & a trip to the car wash would probably be the most cost-effective to start. Northern Tool & Harbor Freight carry block brushes & bottle brushes that will get into the oil passages.

If you haven't pulled the heads yet, do a compression test. Just about any smallblock bellhousing will work to mount the starter temporarily. If it fails, don't spend any more time or money on it.



Before we bought his, I made Frank's engine run for a minute in the JY prior to a compression test.

 

[msweb]

This is what I did for the EGR block-off. Simple as can be but it should work.

 

[Broncoman]

That article was written a LONG time ago; not specifically for or at you. If it doesn't apply to your build: no problem. Mr. Friendly didn't need to butt in.

If it does not apply to this build why bring it up? You are not being helpful and I can not stand you at all. You are egotistical and arrogant. You think you are so high and mighty in all your posts. I laugh at some of the shit that you say because I know you don't know anywhere near what you think you do. I was simply asking you to refrain from posting your incorrect information anymore. I am blunt and you got all butt hurt over it. I really was trying to be nice. You might think i was being an ass hole. Guess what....I don't care. I try to be honest with people. Mike is not the best at asking the correct questions....or the questions correctly.....you belittled him telling he didn't under stand how egr or the air injection works. I have a feeling that a lot more people feel the way I do but are more concerned with being mean.

Sincerely,
Mr. Friendly Authority

 

[Steve83]

I'm not there looking at his truck. He asked about an emissions system - I linked something that was relevant for HIM to consider. You got a problem with it? I don't care. Go whine somewhere else.

I didn't belittle him or you - you're doing a fine job at both. I didn't say anything negative about him (or you), or that he wasn't good at anything (like YOU just did). Paranoia strikes deep, huh? You've just done more for your own reputation than any insult I might post, so I won't bother.

 

[Broncoman]

I'm not there looking at his truck. He asked about an emissions system - I linked something that was relevant for HIM to consider.

He asked about the problem with just leaving it hooked up(by that he meant as far as the ecm is concerned) verses unhooking the egr sensor and the solenoids for the thermactor system. He wasn't looking for what it does emissions wise. I explained all that to him.

BTW the the EGR valve does not hook to the exhaust manifolds on the truck intake. But it does on his Cougar(91 in think) intake. Just like the intake on a 94-95 mustang. This is why we can't run it with out extra work.

 

[msweb]

We've rebuilt the engine from the ground up and got it into the Bronco tonight. We still have a ways to go before firing it up and hearing that sweet rumble but we've made A LOT of progress and are almost there! ;D