• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

I don't exectly understand what I have to ream....(front end linkage) sorry guys

BBronco

Full Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2011
Messages
153
Loc.
B.C Canada
I got the truck and the P.O said I had to ream something still. He has the reamer, but I don't know what to ream.

Can someone look at these picks and tell me what I need to do? if you point to what needs to be done I can check and see if he did them, eliminate, and do the ones still needing.
 

Attachments

  • 100_2859.jpg
    100_2859.jpg
    86.8 KB · Views: 75
  • 100_2870.jpg
    100_2870.jpg
    91.9 KB · Views: 73

broncnaz

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
24,341
Maybe he was speaking of you getting reamed by him.;D Usually the only thing that needs to be reamed is on the steering. either the knuckles or the pitman arm. Everything looks like its hooked up but you may want to check to see if the tie rod ends actually fit the knuckles and pitman arm or if they are just kinda half a$$ed sitting there.
 

Lmfp

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 28, 2011
Messages
1,496
Loc.
Lake Charles, LA
Get us some close ups of the 3 steering hookups. Tierod ends on both steering knuckles and where the draglink bolts up to the pitman arm.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,919
Since your trackbar and draglink angles look like they're still slightly off (not quite parallel) he might have been contemplating going with a TRO (tie-rod over) setup.
I can't tell for sure with the dark pics, but the rod ends look like they're still under the steering arms at this point.
The additional pics Lmfp was asking for should help determine that.

Paul
 

Lmfp

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 28, 2011
Messages
1,496
Loc.
Lake Charles, LA
Since your trackbar and draglink angles look like they're still slightly off (not quite parallel) he might have been contemplating going with a TRO (tie-rod over) setup.
I can't tell for sure with the dark pics, but the rod ends look like they're still under the steering arms at this point.
The additional pics Lmfp was asking for should help determine that.

Paul

The tro is exactly why i was asking.
 

Lmfp

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 28, 2011
Messages
1,496
Loc.
Lake Charles, LA
Worst case scenario is you'll need a new drag link or a trac bar riser, maybe.. But once you have the pics we'll have a better idea. Shouldnt be too painful ;)
 
OP
OP
B

BBronco

Full Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2011
Messages
153
Loc.
B.C Canada
Here are the pics! Help please!

P.S. I do have the riser I know that for sure from WH. It is the TRO set up I am just unaware what to ream..
 

Attachments

  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    155.4 KB · Views: 62
  • image[1].jpeg
    image[1].jpeg
    142.4 KB · Views: 60
  • image[2].jpeg
    image[2].jpeg
    138.8 KB · Views: 57
  • image[3].jpeg
    image[3].jpeg
    146.2 KB · Views: 53
  • image[4].jpeg
    image[4].jpeg
    107.1 KB · Views: 55
  • image[5].jpeg
    image[5].jpeg
    153.3 KB · Views: 52

70_Steve

Old Guy
Joined
Dec 13, 2002
Messages
8,317
Definately Chebby 1 Ton steering conversion. By the pics it looks like most everything is together with the exception of the tie rod end at the pitman arm. Doesn't look like the stud goes nearly far enough through the pitman arm, and certainly not far enough to get a cotter pin through the castle nut.

I would also check all the other tie-rod ends in that setup to make sure all the studs stick/bolt through far enough to be able to get a cotter pin on the stud.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,919
I agree with Steve. Looks to me like the only one that does not need reaming is the lower draglink end.

From the pics, as far as I can tell, not only the pitman arm end, but the two tie-rod ends still need to have their holes reamed a little bit (a little goes a long way!) to let the studs fit far enough to expose the cotter pin hole.
At least that's what it looks like.

And now with this new set of pics, I can see that it was just the angle of the previous shots that made it look more out of line than it is. This new set shows a draglink and trackbar that are more parallel than I first thought.

Only you can tell for sure though, when you are looking straight back from the front, if they are indeed parallel to each other.

Good luck. Shouldn't take too much work to get it finished.

Paul
 
OP
OP
B

BBronco

Full Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2011
Messages
153
Loc.
B.C Canada
Okay so everything is set up right just ream what I need on any of them to get cotter pins through? And sorry for my inexperience, what exactly are the drag link end, pitman arm etc. I have never done steering before. Could someone point out what bar is which?
 

70_Steve

Old Guy
Joined
Dec 13, 2002
Messages
8,317
Okay so everything is set up right just ream what I need on any of them to get cotter pins through? And sorry for my inexperience, what exactly are the drag link end, pitman arm etc. I have never done steering before. Could someone point out what bar is which?
If you're using a 1/2" drill to turn the reamer:
  1. Use cutting oil liberally on the reamer. You can get cutting oil almost anywhere, like Home Depot.
  2. Be very, very careful as you ream. A little goes a long way!!! You really don't want to ream too deep. Ream just a little then check the fit. Do not get impatient!!!

The pitman arm is the forged steel arm on the bottom of the steering box. One end of the drag link is connected to the pitman arm, the other to the passengers side tie rod end. The tie rod connects the two steering knuckles together.
 

WARDOG

Full Member
Joined
May 23, 2013
Messages
263
Loc.
Graniteville, CA
Your shoe is untied.....

Seriously now... I would suggest getting a repair manual on the '73 - '79 Ford Truck and Bronco. It's Hanes or Chilton. It doesn't all apply to the Early Bronco, but most of the suspension, driveline, engine and electrical are in common. You can learn the nomenclature and purpose of the components and how they work together. A $19 U.S. well spent.
Further advice on using the reamer, if using a drill, use a variable speed drill. You don't want the reamer going at full speed. You want a steady plunge as parallel as possible to the original hole. Have the reamer up to speed before you plunge and don't dwell (let the reamer sit in one area while turning) in one spot for long.
 
Top