Ideas on where to begin and what to do

[Pkdupont]

I just acquired a very clean '75 Bronco. It has been sitting for 20 years with fresh paint (it's OK but not great) and a freshly rebuilt 302, never install sitting in the back( I have the receipt and talked to the shop - he said it should fire righ up) . It is largely stock (I believe) at this point with the exception of cut rear wheel wheels and a 4 speed conversion.
I doubt I will ever do any serious off roading, possibly the occasional fire trail or open field.
So I'm trying to scope out my rebuild to keep it more practical. Any thoughts would be welcome on whether or not to install a lift it (provide with purchase) or leave at stock height, must have upgrades (electrical? new wining harness?) etc...
It is very clean so I'm debating whether or not to clean the frame and possibly repaint the body?
Any and all tips / ideas / comments would be welcome

 

[Vin218]

Hey welcome, the first things I did to mine were brakes, front and rear suspension and all the steering components and its made a huge difference in how it drives. So yours came with new suspension but not installed? If so post up what it came with, might be worth putting on but might not. As far as a wiring harness I'm sure it could use it but have you tried anything to see if it works?

I would also go through the gas tank and fuel lines and clean or replace. Also if you want to clean up the frame and paint now might be a good time before you put the engine in. Post up some pictures when you get a chance and you will get some good advice.

 

[DirtDonk]

What Vin said. AS far as the lift kit, if it's a 2.5" or so, go for it. Again, depending on what type/brand it is, it's probably better than stock. Assuming the original stock stuff is still what's on the truck? If you're not sure, here's where pics come in handy.
A good set of shocks is key to the road feel/manners and how your family likes/hates riding in it.

As far as the engine goes, just make sure that when you put it in, you go through the entire cam break-in procedure so you don't mess up what was done. It's too bad you were not involved in the rebuild so you'd know what was done, but you likely just have to trust that the PO did a decent job of it.
The cam break-in is critical for a flat-tappet cam, which is what would have been in an older engine. Modern ones have roller cams which don't need the extended break-in before driving, but you'd only know what yours comes with by looking inside, down some holes somewhere.
But it's good to know that stuff anyway. Even if only for choosing the correct distributor gear material.

I'd leave it cut for now, but down the road (before the next paint job) you could decide to put it back to stock uncut condition if that's what you like. It's more work of course, but is pretty cool that we can do that now with available parts.

One key thing to do with any used rig, no matter what the PO said they did, is to change all the fluids. Obviously you don't need to worry about engine oil, as that is going to be brand new when you fire it up. But things like front and rear differentials, transfer case and transmission will be good candidates.

And another safety protocol for old Broncos is to check/inspect/replace the rear wheel bearings. Fronts can be re-packed and readjusted during their long life, but the rears are sealed and only good for about 100k miles before they can be considered deteriorated and ready to change. Mine were literally toast at 90k, and many a Bronco has lost an axle and wheel at 120k when the old bearings were ignored.
So don't ignore yours. If in doubt as to their age, just change them.
That one subject is at the very top of the Bronco's "cheap insurance" list of things to do.

I'm sure there's lots more with an old rig and pile-o-parts, but that's enough for some fun to start.

Have fun!

Paul

 

[West Tn Dawg]

I agree with everything said above and especially agree on the lift. A 2.5" SL would make an already great looking truck pop! I know I will catch some grief, but I think a Bronco with 2.5" SL and 33's is nearly perfect for what you described as your intended use.

GREAT TRUCK!!!

 

[rmk57]

Sitting for 20 years. I would at least pull the oil pan and check the main and rod bearings. The assembly lube could be gummed up ? I wouldn't take a chance on a fresh engine.

 

[AFLtCol]

Congrats on the eb!

 

[Pkdupont]

Gentleman - many thanks for the replies. I'll post a few pics when I get a chance. Right now the engine and transmission, radiator and pretty much everything else are out of the truck. So I almost have a blank slate to work with. I'm trying to convince my wife that step #1 is to have the frame blasted and coated, and if she has a color preference (she isn’t fond of the current shade of blue) now is the time to make a decision and choose a color. We'll see what the wallet is willing to support.

In reviewing the stack of papers, I found a tabulation of parts and labor over $10K. $1500 on the engine rebuild (1994) and $1300 in paint supplies. Most of the parts are still in the original packaging. Here is a list of what was done to the engine, as well as some of the other parts I have available. He provided a 3 ½ “ lift kit (He thought it was 2 ½) with dual shocks, but that’s more lift than I want. I had a ’76 CJ7 with 3 ½ lift and it wandered all over the road.
Power Plant:
Ford 302 block
Bored .030" over
Crank reground & balanced
TRW pistons (old connecting rods)
True Roller Timing Chain & sprockets

Intake Manifold -- Edelbrock Performer-Plus (#2121)

Camshaft & Lifter Assembly-- Edelbrock Performer-Plus (#2122)

Carburetor -- Edelbrock Performer Series electric choke (#1406)

Heads
Reground Valves -- triple angle
Crowder competition springs
Competition Cam Roller Rocker Arms (#CCA-1431)
Competition Cam push rods (#CCA-7831)

Fuel Pump -- Edelbrock mechanical fuel pump (#1725)
Body:
New rubber seals throughout
New window seals in window track
Rear fender flares (Bushwacker)
Suspension:
Heavy Duty Springs (31/2 " lift)
4°Polyurethane Bushing Kit
Rear Add-A-Leaf
Front & Rear double shock kits
8 Gabriel Adjustable E Shocks
Interior:
New carpet throughout
Le Carra 16" steering wheel
Diamond plate aluminum tunnel cover

 

[JAFO]

Hmm. Sounds bad. I suggest you sell that Bronco right away. Maybe to someone in say Virginia. You aren't going to be able to handle how good it makes you feel driving it.

Seriously, what everyone said. Congrats on the find.
Change fluids. Make sure it can stop (new brake lines, etc), make sure it can steer, use a priming rod and pump up the oil pressure on the engine before you start it.

 

[hammer189]

I would pull the distributor and use an engine pre-oiler on a drill to get the oil circulated before starting.

 

[Lunar-tic]

Most places north of Fredericksburg will scalp you when it comes to media blasting. Shop around or even better, go to Harbor Freight and get a 4.5 inch grinder, some wire wheels and go to town on the frame, then POR15 it. I'm at Belvoir if you need an unprofessional opinion or just someone to take it off your hands.

 

[Attac]

Welcome,
From the pics I say that is a great start. The paint is nice and it is overall very clean looking.
I was up that way for about 4 yrs(Falls Church.. Ft Myer) You also have another new member on here that also just acquired a bronco. He lives in DC.

Keep posting pics and folks on here will give you all the info you could ever want.
Chuck