Ignition Switch Pigtail Wire Count

[CincoBravo]

I bought the replacement ignition switch pigtail from Bronco Graveyard and only later realized my existing switch has more wires than the replacement. Three appear to be the same, but the new one doesn’t have the brown w/ green wire nor the wire that appears to have been replaced (which may have been green with a pink wire, but not positive). Can anyone tell me why the replacement has a different wire count than what is there now and how I overcome this? The reason for the replacement is because the wire that was replaced got fried during a previous screw up and now the Bronco wont fire with the key in the start position but will start when the key returns to the run position. I don’t have any proof that replacing this stuff (as well as the whole switch assembly) will fix my problem but I thought it would be worth trying. Turns out it’s more complicated than I thought because of the different number of wires. Anybody got ideas? My Bronco is a ‘77.

 

[DirtDonk]

Looks like you have a later Bronco? Maybe a '74 or later?
Some of the wires may just have to be spliced/doubled up on the new connector.
But yes, even though we sell the same one (we probably all do because that's all that's available) I would think that there should still be more wires to make it easier to fit more vehicles.

The Green w/red and Red w/green wires can be spliced together. If you don't have a Red w/green, it's probably the Brown/Pinkish one marked "resistor wire, do not splice" and you may have to get creative there if you're going to continue using it.

In your first pic I'm guessing that the Red wire with shrink tubing is the old resistor wire?

The Yellow is power in from the vehicle, and the Red w/blue is out to the starter relay
The probable reason yours has two of those is that the second one likely goes to the Dura Spark ignition module and any other things that need a "start" signal.

The Pink/Purple wire on your old switch (not shown in your pic) would attach to the side of the switch separate from the main connector, and any Black w/green wires along with any others that were originally on the center ACC stud will go back there again.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Oh, but before you even think about spending any time splicing and making new runs, check the new connector to make sure it's not shorted out!
Only seen it once, but it would be a bummer if yours was the second!

You can carefully pull the thin, but stiff plastic shield off of the back by prying it out from under the tabs. Underneath this shield you will see just how the wires are laid out.
The new one may be all molded in and have no easily accessible or replaceable connectors like the original did. Typical "made in China" changes made to the manufacturing process.
In theory it's a better way (more protected) but in practice the wires are so close together they can be damaged in the manufacturing process and short out on each other.
A quick test with an ohm meter will let you know if everything is Kosher or not.

Paul

 

[CincoBravo]

Thanks DirtDonk! I’m going to employ your advice this week.

 

[Speedrdr]

Cinco, I've got a DVD of the 1977 Ford truck/Bronco shop manual. When I say complete, I printed it and it was 1267 pages long. Shoot me a pm and I can let you borrow it and maybe it'll help.
I'm off work today and tomorrow
Randy

 

[Steve83]

This & the NEXT few show the complete factory wiring:

(phone app link)

 

[CincoBravo]

Thanks Steve83!