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I'm looking for build threads with extensive/detailed Metal replacement.

Stutsmo

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Jan 24, 2009
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I have been sifting through build threads looking for guidance on replacing most of the front half of a Bronco. The search has been kind of fun going down memory lane with builds I followed along with as they were happening. But I have realized that it takes a lot of time and I get distracted easily! I am Specifically looking for builds that show replacement of the drivers side floor board, kick panel, door post, inner and outer rockers and striker post. I have found some good pics but I was hoping to find something a little more technical, with dimensions, tips and tricks etc...

Its been a while since I have attempted something like this and I have only done it 1 time. at least 10 years ago by now. Too be honest I am looking to do a better job on this second Bronco than I did on the first one.

If you have experience and pointers or "what not to do's" that would also be helpful. I am looking for any and all info that will help me get my Bronco back up and running as quick as possible.

So post up! What's out there to get me going on this project? If you could share a link or post in this thread that would be even better. Thanks! Stuts.
 
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Stutsmo

Stutsmo

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Does anyone have a link to a diagram with dimensions of what the door opening should be? Since my driver's door opening just has a piece of 1/4" metal welded in place of a front door post. I'm pretty sure any measurements taken before I start working won't be close.
 

thegreatjustino

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Stutsmo

Stutsmo

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Any body know if there is a "proper" measurement or location to put the Warranty tag on the kick panel for the 66-67 years? Again I really dont have a drivers sidw kick panel to go off of.
 
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Stutsmo

Stutsmo

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a few hours of google searching (mostly leading back to Classicbroncos.com threads) has lead me to the conclusion that nobody really knows the "correct" location. Best I can tell is that the vertical measurement from the floor is close to 7 3/4" up from the floorboard to the center of the tag. The side to side measurement really doesn't have a exact measurement. So I need to put it far enough away from the door opening to allow for door inserts to be installed.
 
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Stutsmo

Stutsmo

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I wonder if it was just a place it roughly in this position direction for the installer on the assembly line.
That would not surprise me. I saw several conversations that showed several different measurements/locations and everything from screws to rivets attaching them.
 

jamesroney

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I wonder if it was just a place it roughly in this position direction for the installer on the assembly line.
Uhm...no. Let's walk thru this for @Stutsmo

You grew up near Dearborn, Michigan. You have friends or family that work at the local assembly plant. You graduated from high school a few years ago. You are a member of the United Auto Worker's Union, and You have 1 job. Your job is to take the Vehicle Warranty Data plate, and affix it to the next vehicle coming down the line. You have been trained and certified to do your job.

It is 1967. Ford is in full production on the assembly line. The assembly line has been in continuous operation, moving 24 hours a day, 7 days a week since the end of August. You only shut down at Christmas and again at model year change in late July. The current Takt time is roughly 90 seconds. (Takt time meaning "drum-beat" or cadence.) So EVERY 90 seconds, a vehicle is presented to you.

The vehicle you get might be a pickup truck, it might be a Bronco. It doesn't matter to you. You don't care. You might be a car enthusiast, you might not. But no matter. You have a pre-stamped warranty data plate, and a kanban bin FULL of self expanding rivets. You also have a tool for installing that rivet. That's what you have. That's ALL you have. If anything goes wrong, you are allowed to pull the Andon cord, and summon an engineering team. If the Andon is "red" the line stops moving. A line stoppage equates to the loss of revenue to the tune of about $6,000 per 90 seconds. For easy math, that's $240,000 of lost revenue every hour. That revenue can NEVER be recovered. So if you can't do your job, and your union does not allow you to perform tasks outside of your job, and you can't perform those outside tasks without tools either way...the LAST thing anyone wants is for you to pull that cord. (although you will be instructed that quality is everyone's job...so don't be afraid to pull the cord. Just don't.)

So you've been installing data plates all day, just like yesterday, and just like tomorrow. But then one day, a Bronco comes down the line, and the kick panel does not have the holes for the plate. Please tell me EXACTLY what you are going to do???
First, you are not going to "drill" a hole. You don't have a drill. You are NOT going to install a screw. You do not HAVE a screw, or a screwdriver. And you have no chance of getting the second hole in the right spot. If there were a dimple or a pilot hole, you might be tasked with drilling a hole...but that's not your job. Oh, wait...shit. There's another chocolate coming down the conveyor. (...I love Lucy reference) OK, Stop the line, I'm pulling the rip cord!

See how this works? Can you imagine if Ford were putting an engine together, and a hole was missing? "oh, don't worry about that head bolt, just drill an extra hole..." It doesn't work that way. The kick panel on a 1967 Bronco has all of the holes, slots, and nuts attached prior to weld and assembly and certainly paint. The holes for the data plate are punched, finished, de-burred, and ready to go. They will always be in the same place per the specification. (Unless something "special" has happened.)

The kick panel on an early Bronco is the #1, most common, all time most likely to rust part ever. The kick panel extends to the inner apron, and the sheet metal sandwich holds moisture. It is without a doubt the "most-repaired" piece of rusty metal on a Bronco. The location of the data plate holes are well understood, but totally ignored because it is a 66-67 only item. My 100% rust free, original metal 1967 Military Bronco has the holes in EXACTLY the same place as my U13 roadster. So let me assure you that the plate goes in one location.
 
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Stutsmo

Stutsmo

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well,
Uhm...no. Let's walk thru this for @Stutsmo

You grew up near Dearborn, Michigan. You have friends or family that work at the local assembly plant. You graduated from high school a few years ago. You are a member of the United Auto Worker's Union, and You have 1 job. Your job is to take the Vehicle Warranty Data plate, and affix it to the next vehicle coming down the line. You have been trained and certified to do your job.

It is 1967. Ford is in full production on the assembly line. The assembly line has been in continuous operation, moving 24 hours a day, 7 days a week since the end of August. You only shut down at Christmas and again at model year change in late July. The current Takt time is roughly 90 seconds. (Takt time meaning "drum-beat" or cadence.) So EVERY 90 seconds, a vehicle is presented to you.

The vehicle you get might be a pickup truck, it might be a Bronco. It doesn't matter to you. You don't care. You might be a car enthusiast, you might not. But no matter. You have a pre-stamped warranty data plate, and a kanban bin FULL of self expanding rivets. You also have a tool for installing that rivet. That's what you have. That's ALL you have. If anything goes wrong, you are allowed to pull the Andon cord, and summon an engineering team. If the Andon is "red" the line stops moving. A line stoppage equates to the loss of revenue to the tune of about $6,000 per 90 seconds. For easy math, that's $240,000 of lost revenue every hour. That revenue can NEVER be recovered. So if you can't do your job, and your union does not allow you to perform tasks outside of your job, and you can't perform those outside tasks without tools either way...the LAST thing anyone wants is for you to pull that cord. (although you will be instructed that quality is everyone's job...so don't be afraid to pull the cord. Just don't.)

So you've been installing data plates all day, just like yesterday, and just like tomorrow. But then one day, a Bronco comes down the line, and the kick panel does not have the holes for the plate. Please tell me EXACTLY what you are going to do???
First, you are not going to "drill" a hole. You don't have a drill. You are NOT going to install a screw. You do not HAVE a screw, or a screwdriver. And you have no chance of getting the second hole in the right spot. If there were a dimple or a pilot hole, you might be tasked with drilling a hole...but that's not your job. Oh, wait...shit. There's another chocolate coming down the conveyor. (...I love Lucy reference) OK, Stop the line, I'm pulling the rip cord!

See how this works? Can you imagine if Ford were putting an engine together, and a hole was missing? "oh, don't worry about that head bolt, just drill an extra hole..." It doesn't work that way. The kick panel on a 1967 Bronco has all of the holes, slots, and nuts attached prior to weld and assembly and certainly paint. The holes for the data plate are punched, finished, de-burred, and ready to go. They will always be in the same place per the specification. (Unless something "special" has happened.)

The kick panel on an early Bronco is the #1, most common, all time most likely to rust part ever. The kick panel extends to the inner apron, and the sheet metal sandwich holds moisture. It is without a doubt the "most-repaired" piece of rusty metal on a Bronco. The location of the data plate holes are well understood, but totally ignored because it is a 66-67 only item. My 100% rust free, original metal 1967 Military Bronco has the holes in EXACTLY the same place as my U13 roadster. So let me assure you that the plate goes in one location.
Mind measuring your locations and posting the measurements here? In my searching there's about 30-40 Bronco owners over the last 15-20 years that would love the exact dimension answer.
pictures would be helpful also!` Thanks!!
 

jamesroney

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Here you go. Easy number is the plate goes 5 inches forward of the pinch weld. Or the rearmost hole is 1-11/16 forward of the pinchweld. The centerline is 5-3/4 down from the lowest dash bracket hole, or up 7-3/4 from the floor (if you have one yet)
 

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Stutsmo

Stutsmo

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So, I am going to do this project the week between Christmas and New Years. Reading through build threads on here I see that it generally takes people much longer than a week to complete this job. If it were to take me longer it won't be the end of the world however, I am busy with other things and my window to work on it will close. So it will sit. In an effort to get this done I have made a list based on information I have gathered, and notes taken from builds on this site. I'm posting it up in the order I am planning to attack it in hopes if some one sees anything they think that I will regret they will speak up so I don't waste a bunch of my limited time.

I am also doing a few other things to the bronco at the same time as this project Its a 66 so I am converting it to electric wipers and rewiring it. all in a week is the plan.

1​
REMOVE TOP
2​
REMOVE SEATS REMOVE WINDSHIELD FRAME (UPGRADE TO ELECTRIC WIPERS)
3​
REMOVE FRONT FENDERS
4​
REMOVE GRILL
5​
REMOVE DOORS
6​
REMOVE BULK HEAD IF IN THE WAY OF REAR POST
7​
MEASURE AND RECORD DOOR OPENING MEASUREMENTS PER SHEET
8​
MEASURE AND RECORD FRONT INNER FENDER MEASUREMENT POINTS
9​
MEASURE AND RECORD KICK PANEL MEASUREMENTS'
10​
REPLACE DRIVERS SIDE FLOOR BOARD
11​
REPAIR DRIVERS SIDE COWL WINDOW
12​
BRACE FROM FLOOR TO DASH BOARD
13​
BRACE DOOR OPENING
14​
BRACE ACROSS THE BEDRAILS IF BULKHEAD IS REMOVED
15​
BRACE DASH TO BULK HEAD AREA SO COWL DOESN’T FALL FORWARD
16​
LIFT BODY AND REPLACE BODY MOUNTS
17​
REMOVE INNER FENDER
18​
REMOVE KICK PANEL WITH DOOR POST
19​
REMOVE OUTER AND INNER ROCKER PANEL
20​
REMOVE REAR STRIKER POST
21​
FIT INNER ROCKER WITH SELFTAPPERS
22​
FIT REAR STRIKER
23​
FIT KICK PANEL WITH SELF TAPPERS
24​
FIT DOOR POST WITH SELF TAPPERS

I also found this procedure on order of installation on one of the threads I read and it made sense to me, but it also contradicts other threads, so input is welcome.

If you removed the floor pan, kick panel, inner rocker, outer rocker, stricker panel and door post, this is the assembly order. Floor pan first, there is one support under the drivers side, two under the passenger side. Next is the inner rocker. It caps over the floorpan on top, caps over the seatpan/striker support in the back, sits against the outside of the floor supports. Next is the striker or kick panel.
The striker welds over the back lip of the inner rocker previously mentioned. It also has a forward lip that will weld over the side of the inner rocker. The kick panel is welded against the front side of the inner rocker, and the upper side lip of the floorpan. The door post is welded to the kick panel and the inner rocker. Lastly, the outer rocker."


let me know what you all think. Stuts
 

roundhouse

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 5, 2003
Messages
2,956
As for lining all back up

You have to start at the rear of the door to the quarter panel gap

Since the quarter panel is fixed and can’t be adjusted

I’d suggest hanging the door on the A pillar and using a floor Jack under the door , easy to do with the rocker panels missing , using some wood blocks under the door ,
I used a transmission Jack

Use the gap between the door and quarter to set the hinge post location

You have some adjustment with the Shims on the hinges but not a lot
 
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