Is this a potential problem??

[Speedrdr]

I'm trying to figure out if my steering linkage is gonna be a problem with the way it's set up at present. Pay no attention to the flip-flops...just left physical therapy. Lol
Randy

 

[SteveL]

Looking at the pic the drag link looks at a decent angle with the trak bar. Being the inverted-y set up not sure if it can be properly adjusted for a lift. May be able to run a drop pitman. With lifts and tires alot of guys swap to the earlier style linkage with an adjustable drag link or step up to hiems.

 

[Speedrdr]

Thanks for the encouragement. Well, according to the measurements from the top of axle up, I've got a 3 1/2 inch suspension lift. As soon as I get finished with the engine installation and get it home I'll be able to get a feel for the steering.

 

[DirtDonk]

Yes, looks like a lifted '76 or '77, but without a dropped pitman arm AND trackbar bracket. Angles are still matching, but they're looking a little steeper than stock.
They always get used in pairs, unless you're changing the linkage design like Steve was saying.
If you convert over to the earlier T-style steering you usually need to fiddle with angles a bit.
Typical parts would be the stock trackbar bracket and an F150 pitman arm. Those work well together, but each Bronco is different, so mock up your own before committing to one direction.

Is there a problem you're looking to fix? Did you re-adjust toe-in after the lift? Is it getting some bump-steer? Wandering?

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Well, according to the measurements from the top of axle up, I've got a 3 1/2 inch suspension lift.

As soon as I get finished with the engine installation and get it home I'll be able to get a feel for the steering.

Those measurements and conditions are mutually exclusive. You can't gauge the lift until you put the weight on it. Get the engine in, then re-measure.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Then again, if those are the old Rancho springs, you won't go down much even with the engine in!;D
Those things had a very high weight rating because they were originally meant as 1.5" leveling coils for F100/F150 trucks.

Paul

 

[Speedrdr]

Actually, those measurements were made before I pulled the engine to have it reworked.
So I'm speculating, based on your reply, Paul, that a dropped pitman arm and track bar bracket would be a reasonable replacement/modification to do? And I'm ashamed to say, but it's gonna be a year in November that I've driven it, so memory of how it handles escapes me right no.
Randy

 

[jckkys]

If you remove the ill advised lift kit, things will look a lot better. The truck will drive better, ride better, and last longer.

 

[Speedrdr]

Also, all of the suspension work was done by a PO and I kind of inherited what you're seeing. I certainly am not against getting new brackets to ease the angles.
Randy

 

[DirtDonk]

Yes, with a 3" suspension lift you should install the appropriate drop bracket and pitman arm to bring the steering linkage's overall angles back down to a near-stock level.

Really anything over two inches should get the same treatment in my opinion, but for years most people felt they could get away without spending the extra money until three inches or greater.
The '76/'77 steering linkage is more sensitive to changes like this too, as it is with larger tires and wheels with different offsets. Especially notable when in four-wheel drive of course, but on the street is where we spend most of the time and where we can feel the differences more clearly.

So yes, unless your goal is to eventually lower the suspension back down to stock height to maybe 1" of lift, get the dropped parts to compensate.

Paul

 

[Speedrdr]

Yes, with a 3" suspension lift you should install the appropriate drop bracket and pitman arm to bring the steering linkage's overall angles back down to a near-stock level.

So yes, unless your goal is to eventually lower the suspension back down to stock height to maybe 1" of lift, get the dropped parts to compensate.

Paul

My plans are to keep the present suspension lift and drop the tire size from 37" down to something more appropriate, like 33's. That way I'll have a little more time to get the chunks regeared from 350's to 410's or maybe better.
All that to say it is looking like I can see a track bar bracket and Pittman bar in the very near future.
Randy

 

[SteveL]

Hey Paul, for ordering a drop pitman for a 77 doesnt it have a different size hole or taper on the drag link like a 66? Just trying to keep him from having mix up on the order

 

[DirtDonk]

Yes it does. Smaller hole, like the early '66. But I've never measured a '66 to see just what the difference is.
There are late-'66 to '75 arms, and then there are '76 and '77 arms.
Then of course there are the F150 arms which have a different size hole altogether.

Paul

 

[Speedrdr]

Yes it does. Smaller hole, like the early '66. But I've never measured a '66 to see just what the difference is.
There are late-'66 to '75 arms, and then there are '76 and '77 arms.
Then of course there are the F150 arms which have a different size hole altogether.

Paul

So, Paul, what I'm hearing is I can pop the pitman mark loose, measure the home and call y'all at WH and someone there can hook me up with the correct parts? I'm guessing that's gonna be the EASY part of that swap.
Randy

 

[DirtDonk]

If you know what year your Bronco is, and know that is has not been modified in this area (which is kind of rare, and is easily visible to check) then all you need to do is get the dropped pitman arm for your year of steering linkage.

So if you have a late '66 up to '75 "Inverted-T" steering linkage, you buy the pitman arm for those years. If you have the '76 and '77 "Inverted-Y" steering linkage, you get the pitman arm for that.

If you have an early '66 you likely need new steering linkages anyway, so you just get the readily available later pitman arm and Inverted-T replacement linkage.

If you have a '76 or a '77 that is lifted and you want to change to an Inverted-T linkage, you "might" need an arm such as our #781275, which has less drop than the others and better matches the new angles of the swapped-in linkage and the larger upper trackbar bracket of the later Broncos.

More to come...

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

All of the listed arms fit all of the common steering boxes, so that splined shaft and hole are not at issue.
A stock manual box, stock power box, 4x4x2 box and 2wd F100 box all use the same size 36-spline sector shaft.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

If you have some custom setup that requires adaptation, there are some tapered shims available to fit smaller rod ends into larger tapered holes.

Paul

 

[Speedrdr]

If you have some custom setup that requires adaptation, there are some tapered shims available to fit smaller rod ends into larger tapered holes.

Paul

Just based on what I've seen when the engine was out of the bronco, the springs, front shocks and poly axle bushings is the ONLY mods done in the front...excluding the 5.0 HO roller motor out of the '86 (?) mustang... as soon as my work schedule gets better, I'm going to call y'all and get those parts ordered up and on the way. Thanks so much for being a wealth of knowledge and for sharing said knowledge.
Randy

 

[DirtDonk]

Sounds good Randy. Thanks for the support.
When it comes down to time, maybe take a couple of shots of the front end linkage anyway and e-mail them to me. Just to be sure we're all on the same page and know as much about your setup as possible.

Paul

 

[Speedrdr]

I can do that, probably Monday if it's not raining...or my wife has another priority.
Randy