KBS coatings

[Jedeka]

For those that have used it, is it the same as POR-15 or Chassis Saver? Trying to decide what to use. I don’t want to powder coat. I have also thought about Steel-It or SPI primer.

 

[AZ73]

They're very close. I believe POR/KBS (can't remember which) was started by an employee who left the other company. I've used KBS on my frame, bottom side, and inside. Works great. If you decide to use it, they sent me a link and said it provides 15% off. Not sure if it still works, but can't hurt to try.

http://kbscoatings.refr.cc/michaelbaldridge

 

[1buckeyefan1]

Are you sandblasting or painting over rust?

Count me as a negative data point for the KBS chassis kit. I sandblasted my frame, cleaned it with KBS Klean, dried with a leaf blower and sprayed on two coats of KBS Chassis paint. It was about 55 degrees out, and according to the TDS, I waited about 3hrs until it was dry to not leave a fingerprint, sprayed a second coat, and came out and found a bubble that I could push around. I was able to peel off about 90% of everything I painted. the only place it really stuck was where I had some pitting and didn't sandblast it well.

I called the tech line and they claimed it was likely too cold and I should have waited 8hrs for the second coat despite it being dry to the touch. I wouldn't try it unless it was super hot out when you apply.

I also have a spare gallon of Chassis Saver I should have probably tried instead

 

[AZ73]

Are you sandblasting or painting over rust?

Count me as a negative data point for the KBS chassis kit. I sandblasted my frame, cleaned it with KBS Klean, dried with a leaf blower and sprayed on two coats of KBS Chassis paint. It was about 55 degrees out, and according to the TDS, I waited about 3hrs until it was dry to not leave a fingerprint, sprayed a second coat, and came out and found a bubble that I could push around. I was able to peel off about 90% of everything I painted. the only place it really stuck was where I had some pitting and didn't sandblast it well.

I called the tech line and they claimed it was likely too cold and I should have waited 8hrs for the second coat despite it being dry to the touch. I wouldn't try it unless it was super hot out when you apply.

I also have a spare gallon of Chassis Saver I should have probably tried instead

I'm just a Bronco owner and have no relationship with KBS. But the minimum temp is 55 degrees. I would have heated your work area 10 degrees. Your frame doesn't have the signature grey finish of sandblasting. It looks polished. Another problem at 55 degrees is condensation on your metal If your metal was colder. KBS, being water cured, won't stick if the frame is wet. from their instructions "Damp surfaces may produce bubbling causing improper adhesion." My frame was sandblasted and I forgot to tape off the vin. I had to use a sanding disc to take off the KBS to uncover it. Zero problems on my frame or body. I've used KBS to paint my bumpers and roll bar in the last 2 months. Came out flawless.

 

[1buckeyefan1]

Yeah, it was a "warm" weekend and I tried spraying it outdoors (so I could lift it in the air w/ my tractor and paint both sides). Day started off at 60, got down to 55 later in the evening. I read the directions and it claimed it was safe down to 55, but unfortunately I think I cut it too close.

I did a DIY sandblast job w/ a small HF pressure pot (local frame blaster wanted $1200!!). I didn't get too aggressive, just enough to take off the scale, rust, undercoat, etc. A few areas weren't nearly as gritty, more smooth metal. i figured if it could "paint over rust", it'd stick to anything solid. I took off my bump stops, etc after the picture below and blasted them separately.

You're probably correct that the cool temp did me in. I did head the advice of others and went SPI epoxy primer on my axles after. Their TDS states very clearly the temp range, advise you to get a laser temp monitor (atmospheric and metal temps differ), and you could very well screw up your paint job (advice I could have used in the KBS instructions). I chalk it up to a newbie mistake..but it was incredibly frustrating at the time...my only solace was that most of the KBS paint came off easily

I ended up spending $500 and had the frame powdercoated (had planned on doing my protofab bumpers and KE cage anyhow..just sped up the process). in hindsight, I would have done that in the first place.. vs. spending a couple hundred on epoxy primer, paint, etc. If you aren't frame off, it's probably not an option.

So my reason for posting this isn't to bash KBS paint.. simply to provide a data point with my experience. Hopefully others can learn from my mistake.

 

[bronkenn]

You need to find a different sandblaster. I use a company over in Middletown just north of Cincinnati. 350 for a frame and quick turn around. I have been using POR15 for over 20 years and it has been a very good product and I believe it is real close to KBS products. It is all about the prep.

 

[1buckeyefan1]

You need to find a different sandblaster. I use a company over in Middletown just north of Cincinnati. 350 for a frame and quick turn around. I have been using POR15 for over 20 years and it has been a very good product and I believe it is real close to KBS products. It is all about the prep.

Yep, i thought it was outrageous too. It was originally $500-600 and it nearly doubled when i was ready. This was Farris out by Newark..

I'm slowly finding "prep is key for everything".. but learning the hard way, even after I call tech lines, read the TDS, etc. ie, you can't use lacquer thinner or anything solvent-based for POR, Epoxy, etc...but how do you ensure you have all of the grease off? Some say solvent first, then water, but i've read water, then solvent? But the guys at KBS assured me that using their KBS Clean would properly neutralize sandblast and if you blew it dry, you wouldn't get flash rust.

 

[AZ73]

It sucks that you spent all that time and effort and it didn't take. I had some other pieces that I brushed on. KBS is supposed to flow to a flat surface but I got brush marks in it. I called and they said you can't keep going over the same spot a bunch of times with the brush as it pulls the solvents out of it making it thicker and it won't flow. Back to the sandblaster. Lesson learned. I just spray it now.

 

[68Broncoz]

I used on my axles and it worked well. Grey and black top.

 

[gmduncan]

I used KBS Rust Seal after my frame was media blasted. Went on easy and very happy with the end result. If you get it on you, it takes forever to come off. I tried to rotate the picture several times and it still is sideways. Sorry...

 

[AZ73]

Here you go.

 

[Jedeka]

Hey gmduncan, is that brushed or sprayed on?

 

[bronkenn]

Yep, i thought it was outrageous too. It was originally $500-600 and it nearly doubled when i was ready. This was Farris out by Newark..

I'm slowly finding "prep is key for everything".. but learning the hard way, even after I call tech lines, read the TDS, etc. ie, you can't use lacquer thinner or anything solvent-based for POR, Epoxy, etc...but how do you ensure you have all of the grease off? Some say solvent first, then water, but i've read water, then solvent? But the guys at KBS assured me that using their KBS Clean would properly neutralize sandblast and if you blew it dry, you wouldn't get flash rust.

I use the cleaners and metal preps that POR recommends. I have never had any adhesion problems. I do remember my brother having some problems with it and I was at his place one time when he was getting ready to paint the POR and he wasn't using any of their prep products. He started using the prep and has been happy with ever since.