Kingpin or Ball Joint Dana 60

[jjwtwice]

Looking to make the conversion. Looks like many others have done the same. Looking for recommendations on year, etc...

Kingpin or Ball joint? Does it matter.

Is everyone using them full width or has anyone cut them down to to stock EB width? If so are there suppliers for shorter axles? How easy is it to cut down factory length axles?

Thanks for the help.

 

[Clint]

Looking to make the conversion. Looks like many others have done the same. Looking for recommendations on year, etc...

Kingpin or Ball joint? Does it matter.

Is everyone using them full width or has anyone cut them down to to stock EB width? If so are there suppliers for shorter axles? How easy is it to cut down factory length axles?

Thanks for the help.

Lots of people will hop on and bash a ball joint 60. Its a 60, its tough, works well. Unit bearings are one issue with alot of them, but again. they work well on 8500lb trucks and will work on your rig. King pins are simple and clean.

lots of guys cut em down, including me, some run em full width. Currie and others will cut down and respline the shaft for very little money.

 

[dblue351]

if you have to choose go kingpin.

I have a ball joint because the price was right and the timing was right. I just keep replacing the ball joints every few years and I have not had any problems.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

I've been wondering how long ball joints would last on a big tired trail rig , compared to king pins.

Mine were cut down by some PO. I forgot which axleshafts they are , but they are name brand. You can have them made to custom length without hitting the wallet too bad , plus you'll have badass shafts.
PO also put disks on the rear 60 , thats nice ....
Someday , in the far away future , I'll get some full widths....
I'd prefer full widths for the "tippy" factor it removes ,especially with taller lifts , but you will lose some mobility in tight spaces.

 

[Adventurous4x4]

I went with the 78-79 Ford F 350 axles ( Dana 60 ), and left them full width as I didnt want to contend with all the axle crap , I am running 42 in Iroks and do have a set of BFG Krawlers also on 17 in rims . I havent really used the krawlers yet because the Iroks are pretty good trail tires .
I rebuilt the king pins when I first did the axles and havent had any problems with them at all.
The ball joints should last you if you put in new ones when you first build the axle

 

[KyleQ]

I am running a full width KP D60. Kingpin axles allow the easy addition of high steer - balljoint axles do not have this feature. You can weld stuff on or source some custom knuckles, but it is much harder to do on a BJ axle compared to a KP axle.

1992-1998 are balljoint axles, but do not have unit bearings. Any newer then that the bolt pattern goes metric and unit bearings come into play.

I'm running a 5.5" lift and 37" Boggers and the truck is VERY stable, not once did I worry about it flopping over on me. My D70 rear axle is even wider then normal, which almost looks silly, but is very nice for tracking through the trails.



Balljoint axles are usually cheaper, defiantly newer and easier to find. I'm thinking the next axle I build will be a BJ D60 due to the simplicity and fact it won't require a rebuild to wheel -

 

[bigbri69]

holly wideness batman!

 

[goneballistic]

78-79 60s are the best. One thing with the later 80 models is the the housing is closer to the driver side tire and the 78-79 are closer to the center. We just did 2 set of 1 ton swaps on 2 Broncos. Mine was the 78 style and Davids(Spareparts) was from an 88. and his housing is alot closer to the tire. He has a doubler tranfer case set up, so it worked out for him. If I used it with the Dana 20, then I would have a terrible angle on the driveshaft. We both used Cage arms as well.
As for the full width... If you wheel , then its the way to go. Ill never go back to narrow again!
I have a build thread on here and so does David.
Mine is under "Jamey's build thread"
Davids is under "Spare parts....... growing up"
You will see what we did with both axles.

 

[1Ton73]

I am running a full width KP D60. Kingpin axles allow the easy addition of high steer - balljoint axles do not have this feature. You can weld stuff on or source some custom knuckles, but it is much harder to do on a BJ axle compared to a KP axle.

1992-1998 are balljoint axles, but do not have unit bearings. Any newer then that the bolt pattern goes metric and unit bearings come into play.

I'm running a 5.5" lift and 37" Boggers and the truck is VERY stable, not once did I worry about it flopping over on me. My D70 rear axle is even wider then normal, which almost looks silly, but is very nice for tracking through the trails.



Balljoint axles are usually cheaper, defiantly newer and easier to find. I'm thinking the next axle I build will be a BJ D60 due to the simplicity and fact it won't require a rebuild to wheel -

Nice Bronco Kyle! I like the 78-79 king pin axles myself, easier across the board to deal with. I wouldn't turn my nose up at a ball joint 60 either if the price was right though.

 

[KyleQ]

78-79 60s are the best. One thing with the later 80 models is the the housing is closer to the driver side tire and the 78-79 are closer to the center. We just did 2 set of 1 ton swaps on 2 Broncos. Mine was the 78 style and Davids(Spareparts) was from an 88. and his housing is alot closer to the tire. He has a doubler tranfer case set up, so it worked out for him. If I used it with the Dana 20, then I would have a terrible angle on the driveshaft. We both used Cage arms as well.
As for the full width... If you wheel , then its the way to go. Ill never go back to narrow again!
I have a build thread on here and so does David.
Mine is under "Jamey's build thread"
Davids is under "Spare parts....... growing up"
You will see what we did with both axles.

78 D60's sure are nice, but everyone knows this and charges accordingly (unless you are lucky enough to score one from a doner or wrecker) but are not required. The two builds above and my build are perfect examples on how easily the swap can be made with the weld on Cage kit - if you can weld, this is the kit for you. (Ok, if you can't weld just keep the D44 under the truck then)

As for the terrible drive shaft angle this is what mine looks like -


I moved my front axle out ~6" though, it is totally worth it. With the truck sitting at ride height and the axle just hanging there by the track bar the driveshaft won't even bind - Tom Woods can build a very good front shaft that will not bind.

Nice Bronco Kyle! I like the 78-79 king pin axles myself, easier across the board to deal with. I wouldn't turn my nose up at a ball joint 60 either if the price was right though.

Thanks - I'm not super happy with the width of the D70, but the price was right. 78-79 D60's are getting harder and harder to find and are most likely going to need more money to get them to a wheelable stage. My build is proof that they are not required - only thing I had to do to my 90' D60 were axle seals (and I didn't even do them) and brakes because it was sitting so long.

 

[SpareParts]

My 88" D60 was free, after I sold the motor and trans. out ot the donor truck. I since have made money selling other parts of the truck. With the doubler I have already found my new weak link, the front 1330 cv head of the F-350 ds was not strong enought with Neapco joints. On to the next level, 1350's......;D

David

 

[kjhephner]

have a ball joint 60 and i run 40 inch crawlers and have not had a problem. if cut down you can get axles, left mine fullwidth. ran 44 inch super swapers before and did pull ball joints out on one side but only after 3-4 years. i think as long as you keep your eye on them there very reliable.

 

[SpareParts]

My only issue with my kingpin axle is when I put my 40's on and drive it on the street I get a jerky feeling around corners that I don't feel with my 37's. I have shimmed the kingpins and they feel tight, they were loose before I shimmed the spring tighter. The nylon cone doesn't look worn but maybe the spring is just wore out. I'm going to try a couple more shims and see how that works. Balljoints are easier to diagnose in my opinion, 155lbs per tire is a lot to hold straight I guess.

David

 

[BroncoBoy72]

I am running the 86-91 KP dana60 and have no issues with it. Yes it sits closer to the drive wheel but that doesn’t really matter to me. I also built my own radius arm out of 2.25in 3/8 wall DOM and Ballistic joints. I have recently acquired a 1978 front and rear 60 (which are for sale!) and for some reason it looks like the tubes are smaller than the 86-91 60 maybe its just me I don’t know.. But they are all great upgrades compared to the dana 44 is your going to do some serious wheeling or run a large tire.

Jonathan