• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

Lars Bars Question

snick

Contributor
Jr. Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2015
Messages
127
First off, thanks in advance for your help. I’ve been researching Lars bars for a couple years and am finally ready to to make a set (with lots of help from a friend with significant fabrication experience, of course). I’ve read all the threads I can find on them including the original thread from Lars on norcalbroncos.com. With all due respect to others who have made variations to the ones Lars made, I’d like to stick to copying Lars’ original bars as much as possible with possible exceptions of the joint used the type of DOM steel. I have very little fabrication experience so bare with me if my questions/terminology/etc sounds like I have no clue what I’m doing/saying.

Question 1:
While buying some other bronco parts I met a guy who actually made a replica Lars bars jig and said I could borrow it. Does anyone have specs on the Lars’ jig that I could use to verify the jig he made is identical to Lars’ original jig?

Question 2:
From all my research I believe the beginning steps to the fabrication sequence that most people use to make a set is: have 2” (diameter) 1/4” (wall thickness) DOM bent 9 degrees, then cut it to size so the bend is 9” from the center eye of the joint that I decide to use (I know there’s quite a few options/opinions on which joint is best). Next, cut off the excess length from bend side of the DOM (see question 3 below). Next, slot the DOM in the plane perpendicular to the bend on the side farthest from the bend. Is this correct? I know as I get further along I’ll have many more questions but I’ll start with these.

Question 3:
I’m going to copy what others have said they’ve done to get the DOM bent by taking it to an exhaust shop. What length DOM do you recommend I start with?

Question 4:
I read a post awhile back about a guy who recommended using ‘DOM chromolly’ instead of ‘DOM steel’ (not sure my terminology is correct here, sorry). Do you recommend chromolly over steel for added strength?

I know many have suggested just spending a little more and buying Duff/Cage arms for multiple reasons. No disrespect but I like the look of the Lars bars and I only want mine to be 6” longer thank stock with my 3.5” suspension lift. Thanks again!
 

904Bronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 28, 2004
Messages
5,818
Loc.
San Martin, CA
I would suggest reaching out to Dirtdonk and ask if he knows where the original jig ended up....
I think it is still here in the Bay Area?

Doug
 

lars

Contributor
Been here awhile
Joined
Jun 29, 2001
Messages
3,109
Loc.
NorCal flatlands
I would suggest reaching out to Dirtdonk and ask if he knows where the original jig ended up....
I think it is still here in the Bay Area?

Doug

Doug, don’t tell anyone but I think I know where it is..

To the OP, happy to answer questions. Please contact me privately.
 

needsmoarturbo

Full Member
Joined
May 13, 2015
Messages
278
Chromoly is a alloy of steel that is typically much stronger than mild steel, but I wouldn't use it for this application if you don't know what you're doing. It takes more steps to weld safely without risk of cracking after (pre heat and controlled cooling).
 

lars

Contributor
Been here awhile
Joined
Jun 29, 2001
Messages
3,109
Loc.
NorCal flatlands
To anyone reading this, I made some small design changes in response to a couple of failures, which I can share if someone is planning to make a set.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,106
Absolutely! I think I even have the materials still, but never made the time to do it.
Was it about some stresses at junction points? What did you change?

Thanks

Paul
 

sprdv1

Contributor
REBEL
Joined
Mar 8, 2007
Messages
81,842
To anyone reading this, I made some small design changes in response to a couple of failures, which I can share if someone is planning to make a set.

Nice of you.. :)
 

sprdv1

Contributor
REBEL
Joined
Mar 8, 2007
Messages
81,842
Gotta love the response time on here right..

best site on the net

First off, thanks in advance for your help. I’ve been researching Lars bars for a couple years and am finally ready to to make a set (with lots of help from a friend with significant fabrication experience, of course). I’ve read all the threads I can find on them including the original thread from Lars on norcalbroncos.com. With all due respect to others who have made variations to the ones Lars made, I’d like to stick to copying Lars’ original bars as much as possible with possible exceptions of the joint used the type of DOM steel. I have very little fabrication experience so bare with me if my questions/terminology/etc sounds like I have no clue what I’m doing/saying.

Question 1:
While buying some other bronco parts I met a guy who actually made a replica Lars bars jig and said I could borrow it. Does anyone have specs on the Lars’ jig that I could use to verify the jig he made is identical to Lars’ original jig?

Question 2:
From all my research I believe the beginning steps to the fabrication sequence that most people use to make a set is: have 2” (diameter) 1/4” (wall thickness) DOM bent 9 degrees, then cut it to size so the bend is 9” from the center eye of the joint that I decide to use (I know there’s quite a few options/opinions on which joint is best). Next, cut off the excess length from bend side of the DOM (see question 3 below). Next, slot the DOM in the plane perpendicular to the bend on the side farthest from the bend. Is this correct? I know as I get further along I’ll have many more questions but I’ll start with these.

Question 3:
I’m going to copy what others have said they’ve done to get the DOM bent by taking it to an exhaust shop. What length DOM do you recommend I start with?

Question 4:
I read a post awhile back about a guy who recommended using ‘DOM chromolly’ instead of ‘DOM steel’ (not sure my terminology is correct here, sorry). Do you recommend chromolly over steel for added strength?

I know many have suggested just spending a little more and buying Duff/Cage arms for multiple reasons. No disrespect but I like the look of the Lars bars and I only want mine to be 6” longer thank stock with my 3.5” suspension lift. Thanks again!
 

ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
3,390
Loc.
Upper SoKA
Has anyone actually had an exhaust shop make that bend? I'm doubting it, but I've been surprised before.

Chromoly is a alloy of steel that is typically much stronger than mild steel, but I wouldn't use it for this application if you don't know what you're doing. It takes more steps to weld safely without risk of cracking after (pre heat and controlled cooling).

I wouldn't get too wrapped around the axle over "Chro-Moly", it was alloyed to be oxy-fuel welded after all. The radius arm's mass and the thick-walled tube's mass is such that pre and possibly post heating should be done anyway.

That said, I wouldn't bother with 4130, 1020 DOM tube is more than sufficient (EDIT) & hard enough to bend!
 
Last edited:

lars

Contributor
Been here awhile
Joined
Jun 29, 2001
Messages
3,109
Loc.
NorCal flatlands
Absolutely! I think I even have the materials still, but never made the time to do it.
Was it about some stresses at junction points? What did you change?

Thanks

Paul

Have not had time to get near a real keyboard for days, probably won’t happen before the weekend but when I do I’ll explain. Minor stuff really.
 

thegreatjustino

Contributor
Red Head Grease Monkey
Joined
Jan 23, 2002
Messages
15,804
Loc.
Stockton, CA
Have not had time to get near a real keyboard for days, probably won’t happen before the weekend but when I do I’ll explain. Minor stuff really.

Next up, Lars Bars for all the airplanes he's been working on lately ;D
 

ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
3,390
Loc.
Upper SoKA
I wonder how well an aeroplain would articulate with "Lars Bars" installed?

BTW Snick, in your part of the world I'm going to guess that True Radius Bending in the industrial part of down-town can probably make those bends. They're Land Speed Record racers, so they've got a clue about stuff like this.
 
Top