Link suspension components, where to buy

[Qumanchew]

I haven't built a link suspension in 10+ years, but I'm getting ready to 4 link the rear of my wife's bronco. Where are you guys getting components from? In the past I built everything from scratch, but I don't have the time I used to, so, I'm looking to buy frame brackets, tabs, etc. While we're at it, any go to places for coilovers?

 

[onpier55]

Ruff stuff has four link kits.

 

[Yeller]

Ruff Stuff and Barnes 4x4 are my go to places. I don’t buy any of their poly joints, those all come from Curie, I’ve had too good of luck with Johnny joints, I am running some that are 20 years old, sure I’ve replaced a few but most of my originals are still in service.

 

[Butros]

I'll second what Yeller said, just finished 4 link on my Bronco last year and most of the brackets and parts I didn't fab from scratch came from Ruffstuff and Barnes 4x4.

 

[Madgyver]

ruffstuff

 

[RandallLG]

WFO

 

[Qumanchew]

Thanks for the suggestions. I have ordered from Ruffstuff in the past, but it looks like I'll be going with Barnes. I'm doing a parallel 4 link on this one and Ruffstuff doesn't have the brackets for that, Barnes does.

Now if I could only l could find a local shop with scales to get corner weights I'd be set.

 

[Yeller]

I've been using the scale at my local COOP as of late, my sources for scales have all sold off their race shops. I can't get each corner but does get me each axle. One of the issues with this method is you need an unsprung weight to really dial in the spring rates, however there is enough data out there that it unsprung weight can be estimated.

 

[Qumanchew]

I've been using the scale at my local COOP as of late, my sources for scales have all sold off their race shops. I can't get each corner but does get me each axle. One of the issues with this method is you need an unsprung weight to really dial in the spring rates, however there is enough data out there that it unsprung weight can be estimated.

I like that idea, I think that's what I'm going to do. There is a suspension tuning shop 2 miles from me that rebuilt a set of coil overs for me 5-6 years ago. I know they have a set of scales but they're not interested in weighing it for me. Just not worth their time I guess.

 

[Yeller]

I like that idea, I think that's what I'm going to do. There is a suspension tuning shop 2 miles from me that rebuilt a set of coil overs for me 5-6 years ago. I know they have a set of scales but they're not interested in weighing it for me. Just not worth their time I guess.

Guess they don’t like selling stuff to you

 

[nvrstuk]

I've been using the scale at my local COOP as of late, my sources for scales have all sold off their race shops. I can't get each corner but does get me each axle. One of the issues with this method is you need an unsprung weight to really dial in the spring rates, however there is enough data out there that it unsprung weight can be estimated.

Thanks for the suggestions. I have ordered from Ruffstuff in the past, but it looks like I'll be going with Barnes. I'm doing a parallel 4 link on this one and Ruffstuff doesn't have the brackets for that, Barnes does.

Now if I could only l could find a local shop with scales to get corner weights I'd be set.

I bought a simple scale from RS and even tho it wasn't convenient I set it under each corner and blocked every other corner so their wouldn't be any weight shift or bias. It's pretty accurate and hundreds of dollars cheaper than buying "use once" scales. This I can use for other projects.

Mr. Singer and Steve both know which model I bought, I just need to look it up! TS put an arm on his.... his works great, mine works. lol

 

[ntsqd]

Been a few years since I've posted these pics, but we used this tool to get corner weights on little sporty cars. You manly-men shouldn't have any trouble using one to get corner weights on something heavier. I just leave the variable ratio set on 10:1 It make the math easy, and it makes the lifting easy too. The CAD model has only the 10:1 option. I'm betting that most of you can fabricate this tool. I'd use an HF impact socket (no chrome to grind off) for the square drive, but that's why I think HF exists, to supply tools about to be modified.

You do need an assistant to work this properly. And a sheet of paper. Push down on the torque wrench's handle hard enough to lift the tire off the ground. Have your assistant put the paper under the tire where they can still grip an edge. Let the tire sit on the ground. Now slowly lift the tire while reading the scale on the wrench while your assistant gently pulls on the edge of the paper. When the paper slips out from under the tire your assistant should yell "booga-booga" or something to let you know. Multiply the scale reading at that instant by 10 and you have a corner weight. We used to go for 3X averages at each corner.

It is simple, it is as accurate as the scale on the torque wrench and your ability to read it is, it is not fast, and you do need a beam type torque wrench. A clicker would take exponentially longer.

 

[ntsqd]

Not sure that I recall that scale, Brian.
I have debated the merits of installing something like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66835 in the support leg of the tool above.

 

[nvrstuk]

Thanks for posting that up again TS! That's the setup I remember you describing.

Here's what I ended up with. Worked great. Lot of dinking around but for a one man show that didn't want to buy the expensive stuff it works.

I've used it for trailer tongue weights when lengthening/modifying them. Handy for sure

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007REK28M/?tag=classicbroncos-20

 

[nvrstuk]

Back to heim joints.... I have been told by several that if you want some of the highest quality heims out there to buy "FK" heim joints. All mine are from RuffStuff except for the ones I've had to replace. I replaced the RS ones with FK brand. LeSS of a wallet hit when you buy one at a time! lol

 

[ntsqd]

OK, that conversation is coming back to me now.

FWIW I bought some SRE's from RS that were labeled as being stainless. They are not 300 series as they have rusted in my Coastal Desert Climate (I'm 8 miles from the Pacific and drive thru the salt fog most days). I'm both disappointed that they rusted, and grateful that they are not 300 series SS because there's a lot of load on them (mostly static) and a 300 series body wouldn't stand up to that.

 

[Qumanchew]

Wow, lots of great ideas!

 

[nvrstuk]

We have all kinds of EXPENSIVE ideas!! lol