Lokar kickdown cable vs others

[FORD*DIEHARD]

I know "Nothing good is cheap and Nothing cheap is good" . I was looking at the kickdown cable for a Rochester qjet to my C4 and saw a couple different prices. Some dont say a brand , just wondering if there is a difference in quality/reliability or they are the same (maybe not brand but for the purpose of the part it doesn't make a difference).

And is installing one of these cables "fairly " simple or something if you have never done before have a shop do it? I dont see brackets so maybe additional parts might be needed unless it's just not pictured in the photo.

Thank you in advance for your time/help,

Sonny

 

[Tiko433]

Very simple to do if you wench at all. Just do not over tighten the cable it makes the cable spread and hard to adjust later if needed. The cheaper ones may have a thinner mounting plate and the end won’t look as nice but it should function properly just not as pretty.

 

[ngsd]

just make sure the cable is mounted correctly if your arm is up or down as it changes the direction of the pull.

 

[jeffncs]

I can’t speak to the knockoffs, but I really like the Lokar stuff. I just installed the Lokar kickdown last night and it’s a clean looking assembly.

 

[Lawndart]

Lokar kickdown (KD-20C4HT) – I am using this for kickdown only – normal throttle linkage to a Holley 390cfm. You may need to order the carb stand-off mount as well (SRK-4000). I attempted to mount per instructions, but the throttle body fitting would interfere with the top edge of my valve covers (if I had a carb spacer, I do not think this would happen). I had to mount the fitting on the backside throttle lever/arm – no big deal as the kit is really a universal type install. I also installed the kickdown bracket on the side closer to the carb mount for better alignment.

I did this over 4 years ago and 30k+ miles. Still love the install and result. With a Lokar cable, you can adjust where you want the kickdown to happen and not worry too much about the carb config when searching for a carb. Cheers

 

[flexmerc]

I'm workin the same problem and didn't want to start another thread.
I've read that's this part

Lokar Throttle Cable Brackets XTCB-4150​

Lokar xtcb-4150
is needed to have the lokar kick down cable work. Can anyone confirm?
I have a standard ford 302 w/holley sniper EFI and need to set up my kick down.

 

[flexmerc]

Lokar kickdown (KD-20C4HT) – I am using this for kickdown only – normal throttle linkage to a Holley 390cfm. You may need to order the carb stand-off mount as well (SRK-4000). I attempted to mount per instructions, but the throttle body fitting would interfere with the top edge of my valve covers (if I had a carb spacer, I do not think this would happen). I had to mount the fitting on the backside throttle lever/arm – no big deal as the kit is really a universal type install. I also installed the kickdown bracket on the side closer to the carb mount for better alignment.

I did this over 4 years ago and 30k+ miles. Still love the install and result. With a Lokar cable, you can adjust where you want the kickdown to happen and not worry too much about the carb config when searching for a carb. Cheers

I re read this and I found another post circa 2018
2018 post

And I'm going to order the SDR-4000 and see how that works.
Thanks

 

[Jacobsbronco22]

I'm workin the same problem and didn't want to start another thread.
I've read that's this part

Lokar Throttle Cable Brackets XTCB-4150​

Lokar xtcb-4150
is needed to have the lokar kick down cable work. Can anyone confirm?
I have a standard ford 302 w/holley sniper EFI and need to set up my kick down.

Did you solve this issue?

 

[FORD*DIEHARD]

I ended up purchasing the Lockar (black cabke #XKD20C4HT and bracket #XSRK4000). *Bracket for each carb/setup are different, this is the one they said would work with my setup. MY GURL is still at the shop. When I get MY GURL back I will post pictures of how they installed it.

 

[flexmerc]

I just completed the a c4 trans and d20 swap, complete rebuilt both.
I'm buttoning up all the little things...trans cooler and temp sensors, d20 shifter cover and shifting firmness.
Then I'm moving to the Kickdown cable.

Thanks in advance

 

[chrlsful]

4 daze later~

A pic would B great Diehard !

There’s so many ways to do these,
then; even have some i6 motors w/the auto
transmis, that it’s great to document and share !
(right now I cant even C what the XSBK 4000 even IS.

 

[FORD*DIEHARD]

Just picked her up late Friday and worked yesterday, sorry.

Here is their finished product. Maybe its "normal" but I do not like how they left the tip (fringed), I'm thinking using shrink tubing to cover to give it a cleaner/finished look? Any suggestions/comments on that, how or what would/did you do?

Sometimes when I get on it , it feels sluggish/hesitates sometimes and sometimes feels like it doesnt shift right away and revs high before shifting. Maybe it's just me and have to get used to it, not sure.

 

[Lawndart]

Just picked her up late Friday and worked yesterday, sorry.

Here is their finished product. Maybe its "normal" but I do not like how they left the tip (fringed), I'm thinking using shrink tubing to cover to give it a cleaner/finished look? Any suggestions/comments on that, how or what would/did you do?

Sometimes when I get on it , it feels sluggish/hesitates sometimes and sometimes feels like it doesnt shift right away and revs high before shifting. Maybe it's just me and have to get used to it, not sure.

If you look closely, I did the same with some heatshrink tubing.

You can dial in when the kickdown happens. It should not be sluggish.

 

[FORD*DIEHARD]

I see that Lawndart, thank you.

I might of found maybe not the issue but maybe a Contributor, my air cleaner was hitting(pushing) on the throttle kickdown bar and lever. I just notched the are out so it is no longer hitting (pushing) on it.

 

[FORD*DIEHARD]

Here is what I ended up doing to the frayed tip.

 

[chrlsful]

lota wrk, pretty smart, great end result.

“...Any suggestions/comments on that, how or what would/did you do?..."
like any job the 1st approach is also the end. Experience & wish for quality.
I used ta tape off tightly’ cut thru the tape. Remove tape when done (or not)
Now I all ways use a cut off wheel. I guess the speed (2K minimum, not sure
as it’s fitted ina pneumatic die grinder and I crank it up some) of the thing's
what wrks. U no those lill dark grey/blk 1/4 inch abrasive wheels (disappear as U wrk).
They also clean the pads B4 caliper grease’n the shinny lill clips when doin
break jobs? Shave off rivet heads during disassembly, etc~

Also? I cut those SS wires pretty darn close to the bracket, holder, or whatever