Lokar throttle cable install

[greggonzo1]

Hello, I have read several posts regarding this install but none really detailed what was needed.

I have seen that BC broncos sells wedges with theirs to allow for the cable to be at the proper angle. Does anyone know where I can just get these wedges?

Thanks
-Greg

 

[dmargnut]

Greg,
I did this install and made my own wedges. I went to Ace Hardware and bought some square nuts slightly larger than the threaded end of the cable and using a bench grinder, i just ground down the bolt at an angle to make the wedges. They fit like a wedged washer and the cable nut sinches the cable solid against the wedge and at the right angle so the cable flows smoothly through the firewall. I held the bolt tightly with vice grips as I was grinding and just eyeballed the angle. The bolts are like 15 to 30 cents apiece so get a few and grind away. I wish I could remember the size I got but like I said slightly larger than the threaded end of the cable to work like a washer. I did one for the interior and one for the engine side of the firewall. They seem to work even though I have yet to fire the engine since I am still working on all kinds of other stuff. Currently tackling a total rewiring (I hope it's Painless!). Good luck.

 

[greggonzo1]

I might have to go that route. Did you have to drill the top of the gas pedal to mount the stud there?

 

[dmargnut]

I drilled out the stud that was attached to the pedal arm and installed the swivel through the drilled out hole. It fits pretty nicely and I can hardly wait to run it. Be very careful with the cable as it has a tendency to fray easily. Do not over tighten when you connect it at the carb end.

 

[DonsBolt]

I welded a 1/2 inch extension to the top of the shaft on my gas pedal, it helped make the cable line up better where it goes through the firewall.

Before I did that I frayed a cable, since, no problem

 

[DanWheeler]

my install thread with pics:

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=119057

 

[phred]

I took my pedal out. Drilled out the pin that held the linkage. Enlarged the hole and ground down the end of the shaft to allow the cable end to float free. I also changed the location the cable passes through the firewall. I eliminated the bell crank and the assocated brackets. I used an aluminum plate cover all the holes in the firewall. The cable now has a straight run from the top of the pedal to the carb.