low pinion flex after cut and rotate knuckles.

[zenzone]

Hi,

So I have been looking for a high pinion dana 44 from an F 100/F150 to swap into my Bronco. So far I haven't found one locally. I am curious, for those of you that have cut and rotted your knuckles on low pinion dana 44's to get the correct pinion angle and caster setting, did it work? Did it allow you to get full suspension flex and still not bind the axle shaft at tranfercase? Or do you have to have a high pinion axle to get full flex with no bind?

My vehicle details are; 76 dana 44, 5 inch lift, 35 inch tires, still on stock radius arms (gonna go long arms soon), stock gearing (4.10 limited slip), when I go long arms I will install a locker and lower gears as well.

I'm trying to only build my axle once and I'm wondering if I should give up on the high pinion and move forward or continue to hold out for one. Thank you for your thoughts.

 

[Seventee]

If you're only running 35" tires I'd give up on the 5" lift before bothering to build a HP44.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Depends a lot on how much droop you are expecting as well.
The cut and turn is really to fix the pinion U-joint angle. While it does pick up a little height at the front of the shaft, and that makes a tiny change to the CV. It is the full droop that puts the angle into the CV.

35s have always been an odd size for a Bronco to me.
33's clear pretty good. You can even run them with no lift with a fair bit of trimming and flares all around. A little lift just to keep from dragging too much and get a little wheel travel. But by the time you get a set of 35s to fit, you have done nearly everything you need to fit a set of 37s.

 

[zenzone]

Depends a lot on how much droop you are expecting as well.
The cut and turn is really to fix the pinion U-joint angle. While it does pick up a little height at the front of the shaft, and that makes a tiny change to the CV. It is the full droop that puts the angle into the CV.

35s have always been an odd size for a Bronco to me.
33's clear pretty good. You can even run them with no lift with a fair bit of trimming and flares all around. A little lift just to keep from dragging too much and get a little wheel travel. But by the time you get a set of 35s to fit, you have done nearly everything you need to fit a set of 37s.

Hi, as far as droop, I'm hoping to get in the 12 inch range with a 12 to 14 inch shock. I currently have around 12 inches on the rear (leaf springs) and it stuffs really well and droops well. The front not so much due to radius arms. I would love to get close to the same in the front as well. If I find the high pinion I would most likely build some long travel arms (y link/3 link). So it sounds like with a good pinion angle on the low pinion it would still bind the CV on full articulation. That's kinda what I figured. I know 35's are not missive in today's world but they work well right now and if/when I go EFI/overdrive I would consider 37's. You are right that I think 37 would fit with the trimming I have done.

Seventee I hear you on the less lift, I think that has worked well for some with a little body lift. I like the ride height on mine and it leaves room for the build to evolve over time.

 

[Rustytruck]

instead of the high pinion differental you may be looking at BC Broncos WAH modification.

https://bcbroncos.com/shop/bcb-orig...nal-parts/26-41000-w-a-h-eb-for-early-bronco/

 

[Broncobowsher]

instead of the high pinion differental you may be looking at BC Broncos WAH modification.

https://bcbroncos.com/shop/bcb-orig...nal-parts/26-41000-w-a-h-eb-for-early-bronco/

Apples to chicken nuggets there.

WAH is great for articulation. Doesn't change travel, just allows a greater differential of travel side to side.

The low pinion issue that is being fought here is the driveshaft angle, specifically the CV angle at full droop. WAH will make zero difference at full droop.

 

[Rustytruck]

Hi, as far as droop, I'm hoping to get in the 12 inch range with a 12 to 14 inch shock. I currently have around 12 inches on the rear (leaf springs) and it stuffs really well and droops well. The front not so much due to radius arms. .

didnt he ask for droop or did I miss read this?

 

[Broncobowsher]

Yes, he asked for droop. You answered with articulation.
Articulation is one wheel up, the other down.
Straight droop (both wheels down) is more severe as the center of the axle housing is further away from the frame with the spring/shocks extended to the same limits as in articulation. If you are doing something like launching it off dunes, you want travel and droop. Articulation is simply body roll at this point.