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Lower steering shaft, rag joint removal?

ObscureMachine

Seatbelt Orifice Officer
Joined
Sep 28, 2006
Messages
3,998
Loc.
World Headquarters
i'm going to put a WH collapsible lower steering shaft on my 74 with stock power steering. Are these the right steps?
1. Disconnect and remove shaft from steering box.
2. Disconnect shaft at rag joint .
3 carefully cut flange on 2 or mor sides until it comes off without hurting the splines.
4 sand the end of the upper shaft to get rid of burrs or make it easier for u joint to slip in.
5. Install u- joint
6. Drill upper shaft for bolt and install bolt.
7. Straighten steering wheel if needed.
8. Attach at steering box.


Does that sound right?
Thanks,
Jim
 
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ObscureMachine

ObscureMachine

Seatbelt Orifice Officer
Joined
Sep 28, 2006
Messages
3,998
Loc.
World Headquarters
Why would you drill the upper shaft for a bolt when it's already splined?

Good question. Video I watched it was done that way. But I just re-read the WH instructions and it says "Measure 1/2” up from
the bottom of the splines and use a die grinder or file to make a notch in the splines for the set screw. Make the
notch wide enough for the set screw to hold the lower shaft in place."


Thanks!
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,421
Yep to the notching, or dimpling for the set-screw. You can actually use a drill bit to dimple a small recess, or indentation for the set-screw to anchor to, but I think the consensus is that doing that is more difficult.
I don't know about that. I've done it. But then again, I might have been lucky because I know perfectly well how easy it would be to get slightly off-center, or have the shaft turn while you're messing with it, or any number of things that make life hard.
So whatever method you choose and are comfortable with is the best one.

x10 on the Locktite! You should be receiving a packet of it with your shaft and joints.
You can also try to pry the rag joint flange off first before bothering to cut. Some cooperate and come right off. But some don't too. Might depend on where they spent their life and how dry it was kept.

Before you start the install, try to drive the vehicle straight up to the work area so your tires are pointed directly ahead.
Then if you want to center the box (and I think you should make the effort), now is a great time. You would disconnect the draglink or pitman arm (usually the draglink) and turn it lock-to-lock counting the turns. Go exactly half way back, and use that point to line up your steering wheel with the new shaft so the wheel is centered with the box. From then on, no matter what you're working on, you know that when the wheel is centered so is the box. Very good to know when working on other aspects of steering ans suspension.
Usually the key splines are straight ahead and back, but it's kind of hard to tell by looking at them if they're perfectly centered or 5, or even 10 degrees off-center. That's why counting the turns seems to be the best way.
If you already did that during prior work, you're well ahead of the game then.

good luck!

Paul
 
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