M1A1 tank mounting

[mebco09]

I am trying to put an M1A1 into a bare frame.

The skid plate/tank appears to only mount up with the cane bolts, and the tank keeps wanting to rotate. The way I read the directions, the tank is supposed to rest tight against the bottom of the floor. Is this correct? Seems like it might be better with some foam insulation between there to keep them from rubbing.

Anyone have any ideas on keeping the tank from rotating until I get the body back on (might be a few weeks to months). My plan was to mount the tank, then plumb the tank before the body goes back on. Looks way easier to do all this with no body.

Anyone have any thoughts?

 

[75MIKE]

Can't help with the install, but would be against any foam that will hold moisture.

 

[DirtDonk]

I'd agree with the easier part, but because the body stabilizes it you'll have to go to plan-b instead.
I've never done it, and don't remember any threads discussing it, but it seems that some kind of simple strap on top to stabilize the tank would do the trick.
Whether that takes the form of a small strip of metal screwed to the frame/crossmember, or literally a strap like a ratchet strap to hold it steady, you can use anything you can think of.

You won't know how high to hold it ultimately until the body is on the frame, but you can get it "close enough" I would think.
And yes, we have discussed things like rubber feet, old shock bushings to act as insulators, rubber blocks of some kind to act as cushions/insulators, all the way to a simple rubber mat in place on top.
No consensus on what is "best" however, since it's not an absolute necessity anyway. But it seems like a best-practice that something in-between would be a good thing.
A foam insulating layer is not likely a good choice though, unless you find a foam that's gas and oil resistant.

Paul

 

[JB Fab]

You can always use tabs and bolt it to the frame.....

 

[mebco09]

I'd agree with the easier part, but because the body stabilizes it you'll have to go to plan-b instead.
I've never done it, and don't remember any threads discussing it, but it seems that some kind of simple strap on top to stabilize the tank would do the trick.
Whether that takes the form of a small strip of metal screwed to the frame/crossmember, or literally a strap like a ratchet strap to hold it steady, you can use anything you can think of.

You won't know how high to hold it ultimately until the body is on the frame, but you can get it "close enough" I would think.
And yes, we have discussed things like rubber feet, old shock bushings to act as insulators, rubber blocks of some kind to act as cushions/insulators, all the way to a simple rubber mat in place on top.
No consensus on what is "best" however, since it's not an absolute necessity anyway. But it seems like a best-practice that something in-between would be a good thing.
A foam insulating layer is not likely a good choice though, unless you find a foam that's gas and oil resistant.

Paul

Thanks for the input. I was thinking about some small rubber glazing pads (little 1/4" thick rubber blocks) to take up that space. I guess since both the body and the tank are bolted to the frame, there shouldn't be any movement between the two that would cause squeaks.

 

[toddz69]

Thanks for the input. I was thinking about some small rubber glazing pads (little 1/4" thick rubber blocks) to take up that space. I guess since both the body and the tank are bolted to the frame, there shouldn't be any movement between the two that would cause squeaks.

Those would probably work fine. At some point years ago, I got a selection of self-adhesive rubber blocks (probably 1/4-3/8" tall) that I've used on several tanks as bumpers/insulators between the tank/body. They've worked well and I've never had any squeaks or other noises.

Todd Z.

 

[DirtDonk]

...I guess since both the body and the tank are bolted to the frame, there shouldn't be any movement between the two that would cause squeaks.

Don't count on a Bronco cooperating when it comes to squeaks and groans!%)

But yes you're right, these types of metals and the way the tank is mounted are not likely to grate on each other enough to make annoying noises. And for most street use you probably won't notice any noises anyway as the frame is fairly rigid for our type of vehicle. Even with rubber insulators between the body and frame.
I would think there is more flex when off-roading, but again not likely to create any audible mayem.

Even thought it's not likely to rear up, it's not going to hurt anything to add some insulators of your own. Something thin and soft-ish would be cool.
A couple of layers of glued/laminated rubber inner tube from the kid's bikes would be just the ticket!

Paul