Major Problem

[blackjack]

I have a shit load of water in my oil, crap... I've got a rebuilt 302 with about 15,000. I have had this intake manifold oil leak that was making a big mess all over my starter and passenger side of the engine. It was next to the fire wall.

so I replace the intake manifold gasket one week ago and i go drive it and tons of oil was coming out at both corners of the intake manifold and block/heads, near fire wall. This I saw when I stoped on the freeway. So I get home and there is water all over my engine ?? I think the radiator cap was loose but any ways check the oil and sure enough I have water in the oil.

So one week goes by and I redue the intake gasket all new nor cork but (the Right Stuff) I drive it yesterday it was fine. Go to work to day and it's running a little hot 210 it always stays around 170. Sure enough go out to lunch the radiator is half full check the oil and it's really hight and looks like honey.

I drive it home and dam it's really full now.

What do I do????? I have a warped intake manifold it's aluminum Edlebrock 289 perfomer right? That's what I think it is??

How do I clean out the engine and what years of junk yard intakes can I put into my bronco I am in southern cali. pleanty of parts here.

Thanks for any help

 

[kwspony]

sure sounds like a warped intake. any year 289 or 302 intake will work. Best to get one from an older car or truck to avoid any smog stuff, like the EGR. 4bbl might be harder to find though. Have you checked the for sale threads?

 

[bert]

Antifreeze is very hard on bearings.
Have the manifold checked for cracks and refinish the gasket surfaces if it is warped. Inspect the water passages in the heads that go to the intake for corrosion.
It has been run low on coolant twice now, I would be for inspecting head gaskets and head surface.
A bad timing cover will leak coolant into the oil as well.
As of right now, gaskets and bearings are inexpensive. Time to do the job and downtime might be your only setback.
My .02

 

[blackjack]

water pump

I did just replace the water pump. Could the timing chain cover gasket been affected when I pulled the water pump? I put some stuff in the oil last night and ran the Bronco for 5 min. to clean it out and dumped all the oil. I think the stuff had Karosin in it. Someone was just telling me that it is really hard to warp a intake manifold even if it's aluminumn. It never got over 210. Most bronco run at that temp. I will pull the intake again. How do I know that it was not leaking from the timing chain cover????????????????

Any ideas!

Thanks..

 

[Unregistered]

Everything was fine until you started working on your oil leak so i would reverse everything back to that point. Reassemble everything you have done and if that included the water pump I would also redo the timing cover. Most water leak intakes I have seen come from too much silicone around the water ports or from installing the intake without using guide studs. at this point overheating the engine twice I worry about head gaskits too. If you have intake sealing problems check the intake very well they do warp and the get tweeked from bolting and I have even seen them crack from shrinkage. Never seen a bad cast iron one and if you got the manifold used, it use to be common to machine the intake to fit a head that was milled and if you happen to try to put one of these modifiyed pieces on a standard head it will leak.
When intakes get difficult to install go to a speed shop and get a Felpro performance intake set. this is an expensive gaskit kit but is far superior and the gaskits are much more forgiving. I had an aluminium intake drive me crazy once and the problem was solved by using this gaskit kit. Always use plain water when doing work like this and after everything checks out dump the water and then use antifreeze mix in your cooling system.

 

[cracker]

I think I would start from the beginning again and re-access your problem. Better to take the time and redo your previous work now, before you trash the motor. I would replace the timing cover gaskets as well. As stated previously, it is pretty hard to warp the intake. Plus, are you torquing it down correctly, starting with the bolts near the carb.? and crossing as you go? The correct sequence can be found in most Ford manuals. Good luck.

 

[blackjack]

to much rtv

Someone else mentioned about to much RTV. Maybe that is the problem. I should use the felPro Gasket kit. I used guide bolts and torqued it down to sequence. I will pull the intake and see if it is worped first.

Does anyone know a 302 intake manifold that will bolt a four barrel carb that came stock? Something I can get out of a junk yard I am short on CASh Right now??

I do have the adapter for two to four barrel carbs as well so I can find a two barrel intake and that would work. What year and model of car or truck would be good??? Only the 302 right are there different models I don't want to buy something that is not going to work.

Waylon

 

[blackjack]

gaskets

I called this speed shop that rebuilds engines and he said that there are two different types of gaskets for 302's. One for later and one for earlier models. The later had larger water inlets on the heads well the gaskets I got twice and installed had about 1/8" around the water inlet. So he said that is probably your problem. And he noted to only torque to 22 lbs. and recheck them a few times it will take them a few times to get all the way torqued.

He said it is unlikely that the intake is worped.. So I will pull the intake and look at it and see if I can tell where the water is getting in.

 

[Rustytruck]

For early intake you can use the cast iron 4 barrel 289 from 1964 to 1967and the 68 302 cast iron four barrel none of which you will find in a wrecking yard. in the 80's ford made a aluminium 4 barrel for the gt mustang just before they went to fuel injection. Much more prevalant and you may find one of those. All of these have been readialy available on E-BAY and almost any performance swap meet. You may also call some of the used mustang parts suppliers.