Making Room

[KyleQ]

As we all know, our projects are never done, and mine is no exception. My current setup is a stock 302/C4/Atlas2 (in D20 configuration). When I installed my Atlas I ran into the Cage bracket bolts and had to flip some of them out to get the case to fit. I would have loved to clock it up another position, but my axle stretch put the Cage brackets in the way, I thought I didn't have a choice.



This summer I am going to be pulling the motor/trans/transfer case out and swapping in a NP435 and a host of other upgrades. This is a thinking out loud thread, please let me know if you would do anything differently or if I should make some changes.

My plans - front to back

• Replace factory fan with electric (Taurus fan, custom shroud)
• Install headers (Hooker # 9814HKR fenderwell exit)
• Install NP435 (1" spacer/V6 intermediate method)
• Clock Atlas and redesign skidplate

My biggest annoyances revolve around my Atlas swap - I have a hard time using the twin sticks as I've got to put the C4 into neutral to shift unless I'm rolling at the perfect speed and it hangs down too low. I can't clock it due to the Cage arms, but I think I have a solution.

I want to notch the motor mount towers and turn the drivetrain towards the passenger side. This should give me the clearance I need to clock the atlas flat and get rid of the temporary skid plat I built, it hangs up on everything! I'm going to be ditching the manifolds for the fenderwell exit headers, giving me more room under the truck and, more importantly, keeping removing heat from under the truck too!

I'm thinking that angling the motor in the frame will cause fan issues, hence the move to an electric setup, I'm hoping it doesn't affect the headers and the clutch linkage much. If the clutch doesn't work reliably with the factory linkage I'll just go hydraulic sooner then planned ($$$).

This is how the Atlas fits under the Bronco - it's almost flat to the Cage brackets. My skid plate is no lower the the Cage brackets, but it's directly in the middle of the truck and gets hung up on things, it was immediately evident playing in the sand.



Has anyone ever turned the drivetrain to clear a transfer case? I can't think of any reason that this won't work... I plan on installing a 1-2" (1.5" %) ?) to help clear the eventual taller EFI 351W along with my power steering and transmission.

 

[shamu]

I like the dana 60 front. Keep working and keep us posted.

 

[Rustytruck]

If your really serious about getting the the transfer case clocked then If cutting the cage bracket side plate off and welding directly on the frame is what I would do next would be cutting the cage side plate and the side of the frame and plating the while thing replacing the cage side plate and welding in the whole piece. That would be far easier than moving the whole drive train and all the issues associated with that in your scenerio. It doesn't look like you need much.

 

[KyleQ]

I'm not certain I want to be cutting my frame and trying to plate it in an area that see's a ton of stress. I would have to redesign the Cage bracket and chop up the frame and find a way to make it strong enough again - no thanks.

Before I start tearing things apart I'm going to try unbolting the extension housing from the x-member and pushing the transfer case to the side - the motor mounts will probably give me what I need. The only modification I'll need at that point will be in the x-member, and that's simple.

I think I only need about 1 1/2-3" to clear the case - if it helped I would cut the side off the Cage bracket and run some bolts through the top of the frame down, still capturing the Cage bracket. I could even weld it to the frame around the sides for extra comfort strength. If I removed that side, I would gain at least a 1/4" - more if I pound on the frame with a BFH.

Time will tell what needs to be done - another huge annoyance in this is going to be removing a rock slider that I painstakingly made and integrated into the body. The A pillar and some of the floor/body was gone and I needed a way to support it, so this is how I accomplished that-


Now with my headers all of that will be in the way - I'm going to run a simple piece of 2" HREW from the frame for a rock slider, I'll be able to tie my "body mount" to that as well.

I'm a bit excited to get my headers installed - the Bronco has been conversation quiet at WOT for some time and I don't like it

These should liven up this party!