Mechanic Needed in Richmond, VA

[willie19]

In search of mechanic in Richmond VA to work on my 1970. I can do body work. Looking for someone to get running properly and brakes. Best scenario is garage i can take to and get engine and everything corrected. Then to body shop

Thanks

 

[JohnJohn]

I am new to the Richmond area myself but you may want to join the BOAR Bronco Owners Of Richmond Facebook group to ask the question. Lots of great people that I am sure can help.

 

[willie19]

Thanks. I will get on that board.

 

[Jaybr]

For suspension, brakes, mods, etc Davis Off-road. For engine and general maintenance items I have a guy in Colonial Heights I can PM you #.


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[willie19]

Sounds good please send me the Colonial Heights info. Close by. Thanks

 

[willie19]

For suspension, brakes, mods, etc Davis Off-road. For engine and general maintenance items I have a guy in Colonial Heights I can PM you #.


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do you still have mechanic near Richmond? If so would like his number. Thanks

 

[Jaybr]

do you still have mechanic near Richmond? If so would like his number. Thanks

Sorry, I moved and haven’t kept track with the guy I used to use


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[Hinmaton]

In search of mechanic in Richmond VA to work on my 1970. I can do body work. Looking for someone to get running properly and brakes. Best scenario is garage i can take to and get engine and everything corrected. Then to body shop

Thanks

I’m in the Richmond area and do all the work on my 74 plus work on other peoples rigs (aka shade tree), I also know a lot of the players around. What exactly are you trying to get done?
What area of Richmond are you hailing from?
Definitely get hooked up with B.O.A.R. via Facebook.
Most of the business around are slammed and it’s hard to find a place that works on old trucks. Their are some shops and some folks doing side work.
Happy to help if I can.


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[willie19]

I’m in the Richmond area and do all the work on my 74 plus work on other peoples rigs (aka shade tree), I also know a lot of the players around. What exactly are you trying to get done?
What area of Richmond are you hailing from?
Definitely get hooked up with B.O.A.R. via Facebook.
Most of the business around are slammed and it’s hard to find a place that works on old trucks. Their are some shops and some folks doing side work.
Happy to help if I can.


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[willie19]

I'm in the West End of Richmond but can trailer it anywhere. was running but cutting off frequently. Now, won't do anything. Battery is good but no power to anything.
I can bring it wherever. Seems to me it needs a whole new electrical harness throughout the vehicle or maybe a quick fix but I just don't know enough...

 

[Hinmaton]

I'm in the West End of Richmond but can trailer it anywhere. was running but cutting off frequently. Now, won't do anything. Battery is good but no power to anything.
I can bring it wherever. Seems to me it needs a whole new electrical harness throughout the vehicle or maybe a quick fix but I just don't know enough...

What year, motor, carb or injection?
I’m busy this weekend, but maybe next weekend I’ll swing by and take a look at it.
Most of our Broncos could stand to be fully re-wired, but most likely it’s something simpler than that.
Air / fuel / spark - we can start there.


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[willie19]

What year, motor, carb or injection?
I’m busy this weekend, but maybe next weekend I’ll swing by and take a look at it.
Most of our Broncos could stand to be fully re-wired, but most likely it’s something simpler than that.
Air / fuel / spark - we can start there.


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1970 with 302 motor. New carb just put on about three weeks ago. anytime you can it would be great to take a look at. Thanks

give me a shout when you think you have time. I can be there 804-909-2521 Will Hicks

 

[Hinmaton]

I went and checked out Will’s 70 and I was able to narrow the problem down but not solve it.
So now he needs some hive mind help:
[mention]DirtDonk [/mention]
The problem:
The truck does not start. It does not click or do anything when the key is turned to start. The lights do not turn on at all.
It is a 2v carbureted engine with aftermarket dizzy and MSD box.

It has 12v power at the battery and the fuses.
It appears that the truck has been re-wired. I found the original fuse panel strung under the dash (fuses are good and I found 12v with key on). There are two 6 position blade fuse blocks on each inner fender. All fuses are good. The driver side block shows no power, the passenger side has power key on or off. There are plenty of random in-line fuses that appear to go to the lighting, and some other accessories, all good.
There is also what appears to be two starter solenoids. One is a heavy duty cylindrical Painless Performing one and then other is the classic Ford one.
They are somewhat wired in series. Battery to post on Painless solenoid (other post empty) / that same post then goes to the battery side of the classic, then to starter.
On the classic solenoid the S post looks to have a single hot lead to it, the I post has a gang of leads on it that go to ground.
With key power on, I jumped the battery side of the classic solenoid to the S post (if I remember correctly) and the motor turned and started up, then stopped as soon as I disconnected the jumper.
Hopefully Will can post a photo of the solenoid setup.
My guess is that the ignition switch is the problem, as it drive to where it is parked. There is also a spare ignition switch in the glove box from the PO. I couldn’t figure out how to swap it or test it in place.
I am baffled by the series solenoids?

Anyone?

Hh


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[DirtDonk]

The big painless one is usually used for a dual battery set up.
Is there anything resembling a location where a second battery was planned or used?

 

[DirtDonk]

Now for the classic starter relay/solenoid.
It does not sound like an original because grounding the I post is a no-no. However some aftermarket styles do require a separate ground because they do not ground through the mounting tabs like the original.

 

[DirtDonk]

Normally when you have no lights and no clicky, you probably have no power to other items and that leads you to either a battery cable or the fusible link in the main power wire.
However since his bronco seems to have been heavily rewired and is using a mix of parts, it could be anything at this point.
The headlights get their power directly from the main power wire in the original set up. No fuse and no switch.

So lots of detailed pictures would be extremely helpful here. Pretty much a necessity.

 

[Hinmaton]

The big painless one is usually used for a dual battery set up.
Is there anything resembling a location where a second battery was planned or used?

I was thinking this was the case, plus the second fuse terminal? But I did not see anything that looked like a second battery.
I was also confused about the I terminal being grounded, and there we’re probably a half dozen wires tied into this terminal. If not for the story of it running when parked, I would suspect the system being wired incorrectly.
I checked all the fuses I could find, but it’s possible that a fusible link burnt out?

Hopefully, Will can put up some photos.

Hh


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[sprdv1]

I am new to the Richmond area myself but you may want to join the BOAR Bronco Owners Of Richmond Facebook group to ask the question. Lots of great people that I am sure can help.

Definitely great idea to join those same fanatics around ya

 

[sprdv1]

I was thinking this was the case, plus the second fuse terminal? But I did not see anything that looked like a second battery.
I was also confused about the I terminal being grounded, and there we’re probably a half dozen wires tied into this terminal. If not for the story of it running when parked, I would suspect the system being wired incorrectly.
I checked all the fuses I could find, but it’s possible that a fusible link burnt out?

Hopefully, Will can put up some photos.

Hh


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Photos are always a plus brother

 

[sprdv1]

Normally when you have no lights and no clicky, you probably have no power to other items and that leads you to either a battery cable or the fusible link in the main power wire.
However since his bronco seems to have been heavily rewired and is using a mix of parts, it could be anything at this point.
The headlights get their power directly from the main power wire in the original set up. No fuse and no switch.

great points