Money Pit - Phase III

[KyleQ]

Well my local Spicer dealer didn't have one in stock at the moment, so he made me one

Forged 1350 yolk getting broached after machining - so nice to have connections.

[youtube]mMelzhgckls[/youtube]


It turns out that I absolutely destroyed the Ruff Stuff anti-wrap bar and tore the 3/8" plate at it's thinnest location. I ended up having to cut everything off the axle housing and a friend is going to cut me out so much better plates tomorrow and drop them off for welding.

 

[68rockcrawler]

Wow, yes it is nice to have connections! You're making me want more power with the way you're killing those hills. My old 5.0 is pretty tired.

 

[KyleQ]

It's amazing what you can do with junkyard parts - the first new parts on the motor were the intake manifolds and WOW did they make a difference.

I'm going to the exhaust shop tonight to put the headers on it - should make even more power.

 

[KyleQ]

Headers didn't fit - drive side ran smack into the clutch linkage, didn't even try the pass side. Stuck it back together and called it good - for now.

My buddy cut me some new plates and then glued them on.

We also bridged both tabs together and to the axle o the back side - its going nowhere!

Went wheeling that next day with my folks-

This is my Dad's backup rig-

Drove it on the ramp for fun-

Just touching - need to adjust that bump a little bit.

I recorded the night run but you couldn't see jack - imagine that....

Nothing broke but my drive shaft is making some noise under load that grease didn't solve. Northern Drivetrain is going to make me a forged Atlas and D70 flange setup so I can bolt in some Deuce 2.5T parts

The best part of this swap is I don't think I'll have to modify the drive shaft at all - my rear is ~29.5" and the drive shaft between the tandem axles are 29.25" in length. I don't know what changes when I go to flanges, but I think it will bolt right in. ;D

 

[KyleQ]

Here is the new rear drive shaft - depending on what happens when you go from a yoke to a flange I my have to shorten it.

 

[KyleQ]

Well I have not done much on my truck since I got back from wheeling in Gilbert, MN at the OHV park we have (which is awesome). Here are a few pics and some video from that trip-

We chucked a 4" straight pipe exhaust on the stock 6.0 before we left and it towed this like a champ-

Played in a lot of rocks - I've never used 1st gear in low range so much

Had a great camping spot above Ore B Gone lake -

Nobody broke anything in our group and we all had a blast - had some fun playing on the muddy rocks.
[youtube]FceubMNdYR0[/youtube]

The front end got light quite a few times on this one
[youtube]Op_u9twz5rI[/youtube]

I've got some more video uploading - life kinda got in the way.
Dec 8th my son was born - I'm now a proud new father ;D

Anyway - after pounding on my poor truck all season long I finally took apart the front axle to make sure I wasn't going to have water freezing in the axle and I was pleasantly surprised to find it nice and clean.

Before I went on my trip I ripped off the rear brakes and replaced them with some beef Ruff Stuff brackets.

My C4 is at the builder and hopefully this Spring I'll have a bad ass automatic installed.

What do you guys run for a stall converter?

 

[68rockcrawler]

Congratulations on the son Kyle!

 

[Mountain Ram]

Congrats on being a Dad!! It will cut into wheeling time and working on the rig, but its totally worth it!!

 

[broncosbybart]

Congrats! If those wheeling pics are an indicator, you'd better start looking for a rig for him soon. Very cool

 

[Desert Thrasher]

Congrats man! Kids are great, sure it could mean less time and funds for the Bronco but once they are old enough to go with you its more than worth it. My daughter is 9 and loves wheeling with me.

 

[KyleQ]

Thanks guys - I imagine things will slow down, I'm trying to convert this to an auto and fix my last two weak links before I really have to slow down. I think I can re-work the rear cage to get a 3rd seat in the middle but I think I'll just build my 96' fullsize Bronco for the wife to drive instead.

 

[SpareParts]

Kids are great! They'll temporarily slow you down, but it's a lot of fun with them when they get older.

As far as a converter, I use a low stall "towing" converter. It starts locking up at 800 rpm. It gives you great control for crawling.

 

[KyleQ]

Kids are great! They'll temporarily slow you down, but it's a lot of fun with them when they get older.

As far as a converter, I use a low stall "towing" converter. It starts locking up at 800 rpm. It gives you great control for crawling.

I as thinking of running a higher stall - but honestly have no experience picking or even really knowing what I want.

 

[SpareParts]

Money Pit - Phase II

For mud, higher stalls are great. They will get the motor into a higher power band to get the tires spinning quick. In rock crawling, that's the opposite of what you want. You need control of the tires so you can grab every little bit of traction you can.

Stall converters should be matched up with the cam that's in the motor and the power band it has. Mines a low end, torque cam, it starts making power at idle. Most production motors are that way. You start getting up to 220* of lobe separation and then you start needing a higher stall. That way you get the motor up to a good rpm that makes power, before the transmission starts pulling.

 

[KyleQ]

My current motor is just a van shortblock with GT40 heads and Typhoon intakes - nothing special, but the 351w that is eventually going in runs a Comp Xtreme Energy 35-518-8 with TFS 185s.

I'll probably call Edge Racing Converters when I get close to swapping the auto in - looks like I can get away with a stock or lower stall speed, I just don't want it to drive through my brakes at idle.

 

[SpareParts]

Money Pit - Phase II

Stock would be fine... I don't have any braking issues. I'm running the D60 dual piston calipers in front, Chevy calipers in back on D60 rotors all around. Lincoln master cylinder and hydroboost. I'll likely upgrade to a SuperDuty MC sometime soon for a tighter pedal.

 

[KyleQ]

Ok - I'm running the same calipers but like my manual brakes with a 76 F250 C/S MC. I'm switching to a corvette master with a smaller bore to make the pedal a little easier to push. Stops great with no front pads and only one functioning rear caliper, lol.

 

[INPHOBIC]

I would run stock or just a little over with the gearing you have. I had a Hd converter built by Precision out of Iowa.
http://www.gopnh.com/

 

[KyleQ]

Well nothing much has changed for some time - I am getting around to putting that drive shaft in though.

First things first I've got to cut some more of the truck off-

I zipped off the yokes and ran into a seal issue, which I resolved later in the afternoon and went for a test fit.

It fits perfect without cutting!


Here is the new vs the old - quite a difference.

The original paint had to go -

This color should do nicely ;D

Need to install my seals, assemble the shaft with new joints and pickup some hardware to bolt these on. This week I'm going to be finishing up odds and ends as I really need to be ready Wed night as we are leaving Thursday morning.

 

[Crainbow243]

Nice! I like the color. What paint did you use?