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Moroso Deep Sump…Oops

bax

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Anyone have any thoughts? I mean I can get the drain plug in and out, it’s just really really tight. Two pinkies fit there. 😅

I could prob find something at Home Depot to use to direct the flow of oil away from the frame when I have to remove it and drain. Is it worth the effort to pull it out? That pan is such a pain to take off too…wish I hadn’t used oil pan studs. They make it so much more difficult to get on and off, defeats the purpose.
Just drill a hole where you want the drain to be and put some flex tape over it. TaDah. easy as cake.
 
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ba123

ba123

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Ill wait until I need to drain the oil and then do that...or maybe use flex tape when I can't get that drain plug back in.

:cool:
 

pcf_mark

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If I had something that tight I would just drain it like marines engines - suck the oil out the dipstick tube. It is not as fast but no leaks and works just fine. I guarantee you will be sorry if you try to cut a new hole in the pan, weld in a backup plate, fit a drain plug.

There are cheaper ones this is an easy to use unit to drain the oil.

https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...s/23-gallon-manual-fluid-extractor-62643.html
 
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ba123

ba123

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If I had something that tight I would just drain it like marines engines - suck the oil out the dipstick tube. It is not as fast but no leaks and works just fine. I guarantee you will be sorry if you try to cut a new hole in the pan, weld in a backup plate, fit a drain plug.

There are cheaper ones this is an easy to use unit to drain the oil.

https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...s/23-gallon-manual-fluid-extractor-62643.html
Thanks, I was planning on trying but it’s not a simple pan. There is a chance I could go from the other drain plug but I won’t be sure until I try. The dipstick tube is unlikely.
IMG_2222.jpeg

Here’s a pic. Dipstick tube there wouldn’t be any way to turn it and then the drain plug is a maybe, I will certainly try. I’d just have to get up and over the other side.

Thanks for making me feel better on the no drill decision.
 

pcf_mark

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The dipstick is the most obvious for most cars but you can also pull off a valve cover and go through the oil drain backs in the front and rear of the heads to get to the front and rear sump.
 
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ba123

ba123

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The dipstick is the most obvious for most cars but you can also pull off a valve cover and go through the oil drain backs in the front and rear of the heads to get to the front and rear sump.
I love that idea and will do that if the first method doesn’t work, thanks for the ideas!!!
 

rcmbronc

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I had a Moroso pan on my 408. It had two drain plugs. I honestly just did not use the front one. Correct or not that is what I did. But I did not keep the engine long so no long time report .
 
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ba123

ba123

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I had a Moroso pan on my 408. It had two drain plugs. I honestly just did not use the front one. Correct or not that is what I did. But I did not keep the engine long so no long time report .
Thanks, I thought about that as well....with that much oil (total) and not very much up front, it's probably unnecessary to drain it every time. I will want to drain the first batch of break in oil and then at least the next of regular oil but was thinking I'd go every other after that or something. Thanks!
 
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ba123

ba123

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Just updating this old thread with the new pan that I got. I had no Idea that Moroso had an EB specific pan (Moroso 20542) and it wasn’t available in stock anywhere so pretty sure they made this to order. I ordered it may 21, so it took 2 1/2 months to get but man does it look perfect. Also comes with special bolts for the four cap ends which are very nice and super heavy duty- wow!

Drain spots in the correct place vs the Mustang pan, has a cutout for the diff contact, welded in supports for the rails, and should use the same dipstick and pickup as the other pan so easy peasy.

IMG_2628.jpeg
IMG_2627.jpeg

IMG_2629.jpeg

Wife will be thrilled that I have this on the kitchen counter (don’t tell)!

Will update my build thread as well.

I ordered from https://goturbo.net/mor20542-moroso...42?searchid=935230&search_query=Moroso+bronco who had it on sale and I confirmed with them before ordering that it would be sent directly from Moroso.

Fyi there is also a 351 pan.
 
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ba123

ba123

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Nice.

I think you should send me the old one so I can check it out and see what problems it has.

Thanks for the follow-up and letting us know about the bronco specific pan .
I will let you know what I decide to do with it but that’s a maybe.
 
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ba123

ba123

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Just went back to your build thread. Sucks about the VB.

I sure hope you are having fun driving it, after everything you went through to make that manifold and everything else play nice.
Thanks but sadly I was thinking the new pan would come in 2 weeks like I was told so I drained and partially removed the old one thinking I could check things out. The pan was blocked by the steering on the front and the trans in the back even with fully extending the suspension and since the pan never came and I've been out of town, I've done nothing and no driving (obv). Sad cause it has been such a perfect Summer in CA.

I will probably finish it just in time for the rain to come!
 

AZ73

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Damn. I had a Moroso pan but the pumpkin was hitting. I called Moroso and they didn't say anything about this pan. I ended up getting a Milodon with the front drainplug like your old pan. Fortunately I can get the front drain plug out. Close, but doable.
 

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ba123

ba123

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Damn. I had a Moroso pan but the pumpkin was hitting. I called Moroso and they didn't say anything about this pan. I ended up getting a Milodon with the front drainplug like your old pan. Fortunately I can get the front drain plug out. Close, but doable.
Yeah not surprised since it says out of stock on their site and I emailed them asking some questions about it and they never even responded. Figured I would try to order and was so worried that they would just say no and cancel the order but seems like it was well worth the wait.

I hope someone others like this pan and order it cause it looks like one we might want to have as an option and not have them discontinue it.

Here is some more info for anyone looking:
https://www.moroso.com/oil-pan-ford-289-302-66-77-bronco-billet-end-seals-9-in-deep-rear-sump/
(More pics, specs, video as well from them)
 
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ba123

ba123

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Ok, so I’m at least close to putting this pan on. I’ve test fitted it and it’s amazingly perfect in every way except that missing bolt hole.

Not worried about a leak as the pan is a seriously impressive assembly with billet ends and thick reinforced side rails but I thought the Moroso 1-piece gasket would not have that hole either and it does. I called them and they said to use RTV in it.

So, my question is…

If this pan were easier to take out and if the engine were not installed, I’d put rtv only on those bolt hole locations and slowly tighten evenly.

With it installed, thinking maybe would be better to just use a light coat all along the block surface to stick the gasket and then add the pan and no rtv on the pan side. Should make it easier to remove if I ever need to while keeping the gasket reusable.

Or maybe I’m just overthinking and no rtv needed. It’s a high quality gasket.

I did put it on the corners only on the last pan but pan issues gave me a leak so unsure if that made any difference.

Thoughts on that?

Thanks!
 
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ba123

ba123

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Ok, so what’s the deal on torque values. Seems like a million answers.

Some say 10-11 ft lbs, seems like for Foxbody 5.0 references say 13 on the sides and 18 ft lbs on the ends.

That seems like a lot but Idid the lighter specs first and that was leaking at the rear.

I mean I guess I can’t really go too tight with a metal core one piece gasket but man do I hate leaks. This Moroso gasket is nice and I’m shocked anything is getting by it. If I have any other issues I’ll likely go back to the old school multi piece gaskets.

Any input?
 

ntsqd

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Shouldn't have any trouble finding the universal torque specs for those bolts. One such page that I use on occasion: https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/us-bolts-torques-d_2055.html

The thing that is important to know is that these specs assume steel female threads. When going into aluminum I normally back off to about 75% of those specs UNLESS there is 2 or more bolt diameters worth of thread engagement. Then I use the spec as-is. With less than 2X bolt diameter thread engagement in aluminum I start thinking in terms of preemptive Heli-coils or studs instead of bolts.
 
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ba123

ba123

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Yeah, I tightened and it seems better but I can see a little wetness after sittting overnight so I’m gonna remove the pan assuming the gasket it either not sitting perfectly somehow or just bad.

I have studs on the sides and bolts at the four corners and did not do full torque on the aluminum front cause I feel the same way.
 
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