Motorcraft distributor stop collar help

[abrogate932]

I just finished rebuilding my 302, 3 speed and Dana 20. I decided I was going to do the distributor as well before I put it all back in my ‘71. Everything was going well until it wasn’t… as I pressed the drive gear back on, I didn’t have the shaft properly supported and the stop collar cracked in half.

I found that I am not the first knuckle head to do this. I snagged a Motorcraft distributor diagram for a part number from a Mustang forum and found a NOS stop collar on eBay. I thought it would be smooth sailing from here, but it appears I got the wrong collar.

My distributor has a 0.467” shaft and the C8VY-12195-A stop collar has a .528” ID. Hotdog in a hallway.

Does anyone have the correct part number for the D2UF-12127-EA distributor?

Thanks

 

[DirtDonk]

Don’t have the number for you, but it sounds like, by the differences you’ve cited, the one you got was for a 351 shaft size. Although I don’t remember all the sizes either, it sounds about right.

 

[Oldtimer]

This thread talks about distributor shaft diameters:

TFI distributor in older SBF?

So I have a 1970's 302 block with flat tappet cam that I converted to explorer EFI. -Had a new Mallory 7970404 TFI distributor with steel gear (has to be changed to melonized or composite) that I installed. -Was there any block differences regarding the EFI distributor fitment of rollerblock vs...

classicbroncos.com

 

[abrogate932]

Thanks for that link. The pics of the Ford Performance catalog confirms the 351W shaft diameter.

 

[abrogate932]

Update for anyone who is interested:

I could not determine the correct part number for the 302 Motorcraft distributor stop collar. My solution was to reach out to North East Classic Ford Parts and purchase a rebuildable D2UF-12127-EA distributor for $49. This was my fastest and cheapest option. I removed the drive gear and collar from the unit and installed the collar on my distributor. The holes lined up perfectly. I kept my original drive gear due to concerns about the offset hole possibly not matching between the two units. Instead of pressing the gear back on the shaft, I took a small strip of 400 grit sand paper and polished the shaft where the gear sits. I then took a 3/8” diameter wood dowel and cut a small slit in the tip to place a strip of the 400 grit sandpaper in. The sand paper essentially makes a T with a small section hanging out of east side of the dowel. I chucked the dowel in my cordless drill and polished the I.D. of the drive gear. I applied some assembly lube to the shaft and was able to slide the gear in place and align the roll pin hole. The gear and shaft still have a very tight fit, but I did not need to fight to get it on and more importantly I did not need to use my press to assemble it. In hindsight, I should have stopped the moment I struggled to get the original pieces together, but I assumed the tolerances must be tight because I had to use a bearing separator and press to remove the gear upon tear down. Hopefully somebody can learn from my mistake and avoid this headache.

Dave