Need advice: What to fix first? (d20, ARB line, np435, minor stuff)

[Rocket600R]

Hey All.

Looking for some advice.

I bought my 69 EB in February, and have added a bikini top, rear shocks, rear brakes & new speakers. I have been driving it as much as I can this summer and loving it.

I'm at a point where I'd like to correct some things that are bothering me with the truck, and curious as to your thoughts in prioritizing them.

First I'd like to say that while I can turn a wrench, I don't plan on doing the work myself. Being extremely busy with work, a new baby, lacking many of the necessary tools to complete these fixes & not having a lot of patience, I've decided to hand it over to the "professionals".

I work for Ford, and have several relationships with local dealerships, and know that I can get most of this work done right (hopefully), without being hammered with labor costs.

Listed below are my concerns with the truck:

-Dana 20 twin-stick is binding hard when trying to shift into front High or Low. I've read several threads pointing to a pivot bolt as the culprit, but not sure what kind of job it is to get to

-NP 435 is grinding a little going from 2 to 3rd gear. This mostly happens after a cold start, but as I drive for a while, don't notice it as much. I've also noticed a minor leak from the trans.

-ARB air locker brass line is apparently "pinched" and needs replaced. Previous owner told me that when he had the diff cover off he noticed it will need to be replaced. I haven't spoken to the folks at ARB yet, so not sure what the line costs. 4WD (when I can shift into it) works fine now as is, but not able to lock the front. The switch on the dash activates the locker compressor too, so I know that is working. I don't take the truck off-road much, but I would certainly make more of an effort if this was fixed...

-Gas guage INOP

-Temp guage INOP

-I've noticed a significant vibration (getting worse) mostly as I drive uphill at lower speeds... i know i'm in an older rig w/ 36" tires, but it has been getting worse.

-Now here is where I start talking crazy... The 302 is the original motor & very tired. I have some connections with Ford Racing, and could get a crate motor around wholesale cost, but when I went on the website, there wasn't a big selection of 302s, and the 351s are way expensive. Question is: What do you think a typical shop would charge in labor to install a crate motor & what added components are not included in an FRPP motor that I'm not thinking of?


All in all, I'd like to spend under $1500 (not counting the motor), but wanted to see if I'm anywhere in the ballpark with everything on this list.

Also would be curious as to your thoughts on what I should prioritize.

Thanks all.

By the way, if anyone lives near Orange County, NY and knows of a great shop, please let me know!

 

[ScanmanSteven]

Seeing your great looking Bronco, I've decided you should sell it to me as I'm looking for a 3rd one, that way you won't have to be bothered with all the details, lol.

1. If you're trying to shift while sitting still or on hard pavement, it's still going to be difficult. Try rolling just a little when shifting or put the rear in neutral, then the front should go in easier and the rear should go in okay, again while rolling slowly. Same procedure for taking it out.

2. 435s are easy rebuilds for any competent mechanic.

3. ARB air line is available from just about any auto store or truck parts house. Just look at the line from the compressor to see the size.

4. Need to check the wiring, could be that simple, grounding the gauge would tell you if the gauge is bad.

5. Again the wire could be off, maybe the power wire on both gauges is off.

6. Vibration could be a u-joint or cv joint.

See, selling it to me makes lots of sense, good luck, I'll wait to hear from you.

 

[Rocket600R]

Lol. Thanks Steve. All great info.

 

[Apogee]

It's possible that the ARB line needs to be fixed where it attaches to the differential, which could involve a little more labor, some brazing, etc, but it's not rocket science and should be easily accomplished by any shop with ARB or other air-locker experience.

As for the vibration, it sounds like a u-joint or double cardan, but could be a variety of other things as well, but because it sounds like it varies with load, those would be the best place to start. Rear pinion could be loose, but that would usually be accompanied by a leak. Harmonic balancer could be toast...but that would tend to vary more with engine speed than load, but not always. Your clutch could be slipping, either due to wear or contamination...etc.