Never changed C bushings before

[JWMcCrary]

Actually doesn't sound too good to me. I like the idea of Grade5 or Grade8 hardware, instead of some Home Depot all-thread.

To remount the coil springs, position the lower cup and retainer, and start the two bolts about two or three threads. Place the coil spring over top of the retainer, and "screw" the coil spring underneath the retainer until it's in position. Then tighten the lower two bolts.

There an article in the Tech section on installing the upper spring retainer.

I Agree. That's exactly how I did mine. I went from a stock coil to 3 1/2 inch coil and it still was easy. You just have to make sure you have the frame high enough so the axle can drop down enough.

 

[airman]

Actually doesn't sound too good to me. I like the idea of Grade5 or Grade8 hardware, instead of some Home Depot all-thread.

To remount the coil springs, position the lower cup and retainer, and start the two bolts about two or three threads. Place the coil spring over top of the retainer, and "screw" the coil spring underneath the retainer until it's in position. Then tighten the lower two bolts.

There an article in the Tech section on installing the upper spring retainer.

I wasn't planning on doing anything to the top spring retainer. But wahat your saying kinda makes sense to me. Release the top so I can rotate the spring. With the spring out, set the cup and the cover plate and then basically turn the spring under the top plate? Then re-attach the top retainer right?

I have not been soaking those top bolts !

Thanks
Jeff in AZ

 

[70_Steve]

I wasn't planning on doing anything to the top spring retainer. But wahat your saying kinda makes sense to me. Release the top so I can rotate the spring. With the spring out, set the cup and the cover plate and then basically turn the spring under the top plate? Then re-attach the top retainer right?

I did my c-bushings when I did the entire front suspension. So, I already had the springs out. But, I really do think it would be easier to remove the front springs completely and get them out of the way, than mess with trying to get the bottom retainer back together with the spring already bolted tight by the upper retainer.

Edit: Oops, yeah.. Set the lower cup and lower retainer in place, and turn the spring clockwise under the retainer.

 

[broncorick]

Don't forget heat is your friend on those. Had many a frozen bolt/bearing etc where a little well place heat w/ oxy-acetylene torch mad all the difference from twiting off or never coming out. Propane doesn't work as well due to mass and lower heat.

 

[airman]

thanks rick, have blue flame standing by.

Jeff in AZ

 

[Bronco Sport]

Also don't forget some anti-seize on the bushings or they will squeak.

 

[sellers69]

Whe you go to put the coils back in just barley start the coil bucket and retainer plate first. The you can pull up on the retainer plate enought to "screw" the coil in, easier than all thread and easier than trying to squezze your fingers in. Also all you really need is one long bolt to tighten down the c-wedges enough to get the regular sizes bolt on...

 

[airman]

Thanks guys!

Thank you to all of the people who helped me out with this one!

I found that I had 7 degree bushings so I replaced them with 4 degree to help get my pinion angle back to acceptable readings. I have not had it measured yet but I can say that I no longer bind at full extension with no load. This is a great thing! I also still have great stearing. This may keep me from doing the front end build/rotate knuckle I was planning and spend the time and money on something else!

Retrospective: I would never recommend doing C bushings without removing the front coils. I changed the rear bushings on the arms too and having a forklift controling the height of my frame was the only way that got done. Those bushings are tough and being lined up straight is a major neccessity. I did all of this by myself but having a guy to apply leverage to the front end for the rear bushings would have been very nice. New bolts for everything and a thread chaser made it better too. Electric impacts are nowhere near as powerfull as pnuematic. I wish I would have bought the $5 uper spring clipst too. It took me 6 times to get the arms straight to avoid the Lean. Total job was 5 hours start to finish. I took my and wire brushes all the parts and then painted but the worst part was stabbing the arms back in place.

Thanks again for the good ideas or it may have been 10 hours.

Jeff in AZ

 

[70_Steve]

Good job Jeff!!! ;D I was hoping you'd post how your c-bushing weekend went.

 

[airman]

The weekend was great, that day was fun, I had time to was my hands and get a clean shirt and head straight to the Elk's Lodge to get interveiwed to be a member. Like I have time for something right?

Now, I have been reading all of these posts here and otherwise about rear bearing failures and now that is next on my list. I have not checked the rear bearings in almost a year. I will be checking that pretty soon. I want to be sure of them before the AZ Broncos club run in 2 weeks.

Thanks for the help AGAIN Steve! Rear springs are coming soon.