New 4r70w error code

[BruiserOutdoors]

Well we attempted to fire up the new 347 stroker \ 4r70w (Pro Flo 4 and quick 4 controller) build yesterday. We fought firing order and misfires. Engine probably has 1 minute of run time now. Zero shifts while it has been running, yet. Trans took 8 quarts before start-up and I was advised by the builder to get a full 14-16 quarts in the trans before driving it. Afterwards, I added 2 more quarts for a total of 10 so far. Thought I noticed a black spec or two on the dipstick.

There were no error codes that I noticed yesterday. I worked on the NSS and backup lamp wiring tonight and noticed an error code on the Quick 4 controller. "EPC (PCS) solenoid circuit open". I thought oh I must have wired something wrong, let me disconnect everything I did. So I did and no change.

I'm not sure where to go from here. I am hoping it's just a wiring issue but reading online starts to worry me in a hurry. Any suggestions? Anybody else run into this?

 

[nvrstuk]

Did you look on US Shifts website for their "error code" section? It's in their paper manual also.

I can't remember what it is but I"ll bet they have it posted.

Keep us posted!

BTW, don't put it in gear and move the rig w/o all the oil in it.

 

[BruiserOutdoors]

Did you look on US Shifts website for their "error code" section? It's in their paper manual also.

I can't remember what it is but I"ll bet they have it posted.

Keep us posted!

BTW, don't put it in gear and move the rig w/o all the oil in it.

This error code was not found on their website troubleshoot section. I plan to call tomorrow. The written instructions are short and vague. It says to check the measured solenoid resistance through the controller, which I did but not sure what I am looking at. Results are SSA: 25.3, SSB: 24.6 and TCC: 12.5.

Can I shift it on a jack without all 14-16 quarts ? I'm not sure how else to stuff that many quarts in without running thru the gears somehow. Obviously it makes sense to not put any load on it without all the fluid.

 

[BruiserOutdoors]

A video I saw online mentioned not to put 12v straight to the solenoid. I did hook up the "12V in run" White wire for the backup lamps. Hoping I didn't somehow fry the solenoid...

 

[rocknhorse76]

The EPC fault is more than likely caused by a loose pin in the “solenoids” plug at the controller. Pull that plug out and make sure all of the pins are fully seated in it. Also make sure the big roundish plug is fully seated in the trans. Keep going on the NSS wiring as well. It has nothing to do with the EPC fault. Cycle the key a few times after that and I bet the fault clears.

You’re also getting ahead of yourself on the whole no shifting thing. The engine needs to run for more than a minute to get all of fluid in and all of the air out of the trans and coolers/lines. Keep filling it with the engine running until you see fluid starting to show on the dipstick. Once you see a little fluid, run the shifter through all of the gears a few times, pausing for a couple seconds in each position. That will allow fluid into all of the cavities in the valve body and pistons. Fill it up until the fluid is about 3/4 of the way up the stick if the fluid is still fairly cool. Once it’s hot, check it again and top it off until it’s at the top of the stick. Do all of this with the tires on the ground and your foot on the brake so you’re putting a little load on the torque converter. Also, make sure the transfer case is in 2 high. I’ll bet that it will shift great after all of that!

 

[BruiserOutdoors]

The EPC fault is more than likely caused by a loose pin in the “solenoids” plug at the controller. Pull that plug out and make sure all of the pins are fully seated in it. Also make sure the big roundish plug is fully seated in the trans. Keep going on the NSS wiring as well. It has nothing to do with the EPC fault. Cycle the key a few times after that and I bet the fault clears.

You’re also getting ahead of yourself on the whole no shifting thing. The engine needs to run for more than a minute to get all of fluid in and all of the air out of the trans and coolers/lines. Keep filling it with the engine running until you see fluid starting to show on the dipstick. Once you see a little fluid, run the shifter through all of the gears a few times, pausing for a couple seconds in each position. That will allow fluid into all of the cavities in the valve body and pistons. Fill it up until the fluid is about 3/4 of the way up the stick if the fluid is still fairly cool. Once it’s hot, check it again and top it off until it’s at the top of the stick. Do all of this with the tires on the ground and your foot on the brake so you’re putting a little load on the torque converter. Also, make sure the transfer case is in 2 high. I’ll bet that it will shift great after all of that!

The harness looked fine on both ends but I will investigate more this evening. I unplugged it multiple times and no change.

I called Kevin at US Shift, he said its either the US shift harness wire (white EPC wire), the solenoid itself, or the internal harness connecting the solenoids.

 

[nvrstuk]

What Tim said about getting it running is dead on... gotta move some fluid around.

 

[BruiserOutdoors]

what and how can I test the us shift wiring harness and the EPC solenoid without dropping the pan? Really would like to avoid dropping the pan if I can.