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NEWBIE help buying a project truck

smittymike19

Jr. Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2019
Messages
65
Hi, i have been looking for a completely original project truck and I may have found one. Its a 68 with the 6 cylinder. Im interested in keeping the truck fairly original. This truck is completely original (in fact it has the original tires on it). Some slight surface rust according to my friend. I know the truck will only do 55mph with the original transmission and will probably update that, Will need to install seatbelts and disc brakes.

The owner wants $9000 for it. My question is, Ive read that you shouldnt bother with the 6 cylinder. Im only interested in having a daily driver (i live near the beach) and would probably take the top off and cruise around as is. Thoughts?
 

bronkenn

Contributor
Bronco Guy
Joined
Apr 27, 2017
Messages
2,667
Loc.
Southeast Ohio
If you can pick up a nice Bronco with very little rust for under 10 grand I would say go for it. Those 6 cylinder ones drive fine for cruising around.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,905
Its a 68 with the 6 cylinder. Im interested in keeping the truck fairly original. This truck is completely original (in fact it has the original tires on it). Some slight surface rust according to my friend.

that's a pretty cool find if it's accurate. Does your friend know all the little corners to check for rust, and all that kind of stuff?

I know the truck will only do 55mph with the original transmission and will probably update that.

Not the transmission only, but it's certainly one aspect.
If, for example, the truck has the optional 4.56 gearing in the differentials, and the stock tires are approx. 28-ish inches tall, then your engine is turning over at about 3000 rpm at 55 mph.
That's high, but not at the end of it's breath usually.

Now, if it just won't pull past 55, then it's not the transmission at all, but the weak engine running out of steam. Even a lowly 170ci six-cylinder should be able to rev past 3000 rpm I would think.

The owner wants $9000 for it. My question is, Ive read that you shouldnt bother with the 6 cylinder.

Well, Ford bothered with it, so my take on what you were reading is that those doing the talking don't like underpowered engines.
It's true, there wasn't much on tap with those things trying to lug around 3800lbs or so, but like was said, with you being by the beach and just wanting to tool around in the sun with the top off, it will get the job done.

But if you want to get on the freeway via that uphill onramp and people in your area drive 75 in the slow lane, you might re-think your options of keeping it original.
Even a six can be pumped up a bit, but it'll take more money to get it to a V8's neighborhood than just swapping in a V8 in the first place.

Im only interested in having a daily driver (i live near the beach) and would probably take the top off and cruise around as is. Thoughts?

Great rig for that! Tight turning radius, lousy gas mileage and a small gas tank(s) (but hey, it's only short distances, right?;D) and cool looking as all get out.
And an all original one too? Doesn't get much better than that. Except maybe a fully restored and updated one! But it's still cool.

You just definitely have to consider the power source, and the gearing. If that 55mph limit is just due to gearing, then larger tires or an overdrive transmission would get the job done nicely

Good luck!

Paul
 

Scoop

Contributor
Have Bronco, Will Travel
Joined
Feb 1, 2006
Messages
10,670
Loc.
Cuchara, CO
First with low rust and running and all original, that’s a very fair price. The 170 3-speed combo will be ok for cruising around, just ok. If you want a fun cruiser you will need to eventually upgrade to a V8, power steering, power brakes and possibly a 5 speed or auto tranny with overdrive. That said, fix it up as is, drive it, enjoy it, and upgrade as you see fit. You will enjoy the six, but you’ll enjoy a V8, PB, PS, 5-speed much more!

But, something to consider is just how stock you want to keep it. If it’s truly as stock and unmolested as you say then you may want to keep it 100% stock. There are not that many completely stock Broncos left out there!
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
Keep it light and add only a roll bar. Keep the tires small and you will be happy driving around town. After that you should have bought a V-8.

If as advertised at 9 grand you cant get hurt.

At 50 years old on origional tires this truck will be a money pit so save up a bunch of cash to chase the gremlins. At least their not big money repairs if you do your own repairs.

Dont forget to keep your bike chain oiled so you can get to work or to the parts store for the next couple of years.
 

BOBS 2 68S

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2015
Messages
225
Loc.
Hudson, CO
I ran a 200 inline six for 10 years. As a daily driver. It had 3:50 gears, stock trans and would run 70 on the highway until a fly would hit the windshield then it would slow it down to 50. I put a lot of money in that six but you can't beat cubic inches. ( it has a 302 now)
If those are the original tires, get rid of them. A EB on bias ply tires is a hand full.
 
OP
OP
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smittymike19

Jr. Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2019
Messages
65
that's a pretty cool find if it's accurate. Does your friend know all the little corners to check for rust, and all that kind of stuff?



Not the transmission only, but it's certainly one aspect.
If, for example, the truck has the optional 4.56 gearing in the differentials, and the stock tires are approx. 28-ish inches tall, then your engine is turning over at about 3000 rpm at 55 mph.
That's high, but not at the end of it's breath usually.

Now, if it just won't pull past 55, then it's not the transmission at all, but the weak engine running out of steam. Even a lowly 170ci six-cylinder should be able to rev past 3000 rpm I would think.



Well, Ford bothered with it, so my take on what you were reading is that those doing the talking don't like underpowered engines.
It's true, there wasn't much on tap with those things trying to lug around 3800lbs or so, but like was said, with you being by the beach and just wanting to tool around in the sun with the top off, it will get the job done.

But if you want to get on the freeway via that uphill onramp and people in your area drive 75 in the slow lane, you might re-think your options of keeping it original.
Even a six can be pumped up a bit, but it'll take more money to get it to a V8's neighborhood than just swapping in a V8 in the first place.



Great rig for that! Tight turning radius, lousy gas mileage and a small gas tank(s) (but hey, it's only short distances, right?;D) and cool looking as all get out.
And an all original one too? Doesn't get much better than that. Except maybe a fully restored and updated one! But it's still cool.

You just definitely have to consider the power source, and the gearing. If that 55mph limit is just due to gearing, then larger tires or an overdrive transmission would get the job done nicely

Good luck!

Paul

Thanks for such an in depth response. It’s why I love forums. Can you elaborate on all of the rust spotting tricks? I looked on YouTube and saw about the ledge above the rear wheel well and the door jambs. I guess since I’m a newbie I’m not sure what is considered an ok amount of rust and a bad amount of rust. When I see the truck I won’t really know what I’m looking at, lol
 
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smittymike19

Jr. Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2019
Messages
65
I ran a 200 inline six for 10 years. As a daily driver. It had 3:50 gears, stock trans and would run 70 on the highway until a fly would hit the windshield then it would slow it down to 50. I put a lot of money in that six but you can't beat cubic inches. ( it has a 302 now)
If those are the original tires, get rid of them. A EB on bias ply tires is a hand full.

Yeah I was going to change them first. I’m sure they are rotted out.
 
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smittymike19

Jr. Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2019
Messages
65
Keep it light and add only a roll bar. Keep the tires small and you will be happy driving around town. After that you should have bought a V-8.

If as advertised at 9 grand you cant get hurt.

At 50 years old on origional tires this truck will be a money pit so save up a bunch of cash to chase the gremlins. At least their not big money repairs if you do your own repairs.

Dont forget to keep your bike chain oiled so you can get to work or to the parts store for the next couple of years.

Hahaha. I have plenty of oil on the chain! What kind of things do you expect that I will see?
 
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smittymike19

Jr. Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2019
Messages
65
First with low rust and running and all original, that’s a very fair price. The 170 3-speed combo will be ok for cruising around, just ok. If you want a fun cruiser you will need to eventually upgrade to a V8, power steering, power brakes and possibly a 5 speed or auto tranny with overdrive. That said, fix it up as is, drive it, enjoy it, and upgrade as you see fit. You will enjoy the six, but you’ll enjoy a V8, PB, PS, 5-speed much more!

But, something to consider is just how stock you want to keep it. If it’s truly as stock and unmolested as you say then you may want to keep it 100% stock. There are not that many completely stock Broncos left out there!

Yeah I was going to improve it as I went along. He said he uses it as a driver right now so I could use it as I upgrade it.
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
Anything touching antifreeze, every electrical connection needs to be cleaned and reconnected. Brake system will need to be rebuilt. Every system that would have been maintained every 15,000 miles is suspect. Dont repair a part repair the system. New brakes then do the whole system replace all the wheel cylinders and rubber brake hoses an the master cylinder then it will be fixed for a long time. Same for the cooling system. All of this has probably been neglected. If they dont replace the crappy old tires what makes you think they took care of anything else?
 
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smittymike19

Jr. Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2019
Messages
65
Anything touching antifreeze, every electrical connection needs to be cleaned and reconnected. Brake system will need to be rebuilt. Every system that would have been maintained every 15,000 miles is suspect. Dont repair a part repair the system. New brakes then do the whole system replace all the wheel cylinders and rubber brake hoses an the master cylinder then it will be fixed for a long time. Same for the cooling system. All of this has probably been neglected. If they dont replace the crappy old tires what makes you think they took care of anything else?


Good point. All good questions to ask, thanks!
 
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