np435 203/205 doubler questions

[Silverhorse]

Anybody using the stock Ford 435/205 adapter between the 435 and 203, when doing a doubler?
The problem with the stock adapter is it's 8 1/2"long. I could buy a kit with both aftermarket adapters such as Jeds but trying to go as cheap as possible.
Anyone have the ORD kit?

 

[Madgyver]

The thought has crossed my mind to use the stock Ford adaptor but the drivetrain length would be too long.

Go with Jed's kit, you won't be disappointed...

The problem with my assembly is that it's still on my garage floor.%)

 

[COBlu77]

I don't have a 435, but I have been contemplating a doubler with my NP205 too. I have the same issue with the 4R70W, it's too long to add a doubler. Right now my rear drive shaft is at about 21* coming off of the NP205 to the rear end(my pinion angle is 2*). I've read that 22* is the maximum angle that you should run a DS with a double cardan. If I add any kind of doubler I will increase the length of the drive train from 6-8". This will drastically increase the 21* angle. I know they make high angle drive shafts, but they are not meant for highway use at greater than 22*.

The choices as I see it are:
1. Lower the back of your drive train some at the expense of clearance.
2. Move the rear end back as far as you can.
3. Forget about it and get a STAK or live with a 2sp transfer case.

Anybody else do a doubler on a daily driver without eating u-joints and having vibrations?

 

[Past_Miner]

I don't have a 435, but I have been contemplating a doubler with my NP205 too. I have the same issue with the 4R70W, it's too long to add a doubler. Right now my rear drive shaft is at about 21* coming off of the NP205 to the rear end(my pinion angle is 2*). I've read that 22* is the maximum angle that you should run a DS with a double cardan. If I add any kind of doubler I will increase the length of the drive train from 6-8". This will drastically increase the 21* angle. I know they make high angle drive shafts, but they are not meant for highway use at greater than 22*.

The choices as I see it are:
1. Lower the back of your drive train some at the expense of clearance.
2. Move the rear end back as far as you can.
3. Forget about it and get a STAK or live with a 2sp transfer case.

Anybody else do a doubler on a daily driver without eating u-joints and having vibrations?

I have a ZF5 with the 203/D20 doubler and my rear driveshaft is very short. The center of the transfer case yoke to the center of the 9" yoke is only 19". I rotated the rear end so that the pinion angle was 2*. I don't have any real issues with the driveline. It's at about its maximum allowable angle off of the cardan joint and I have never had any problems with the u-joints. I would always suggest keeping the driveline as long as possible but it can be done with a very short one if you have to.

 

[Silverhorse]

I have moved the rear axle back 4" already so that will help some.

 

[COBlu77]

I have moved the rear axle back 4" already so that will help some.

4" should help a bunch. Before you make a crossmember, loosen your motor mounts and let the rear of your drive train angle down a little. Then measure and make your crossmember. That should help some too.

I was concerned too much with making the NP205 tuck up between the frame and sit level. It won't matter so much how long your driveshaft is, but how much angle off of the NP205 yoke to your pinion. Again, 22 degrees is supposed to be the limit for a street driven vehicle. The extra distance back will help your front DS angle.

 

[Silverhorse]

I have even thought about linking the rear and moving the axle back even farther.

 

[mlogan24]

I don't have a 435, but I have been contemplating a doubler with my NP205 too. I have the same issue with the 4R70W, it's too long to add a doubler. Right now my rear drive shaft is at about 21* coming off of the NP205 to the rear end(my pinion angle is 2*). I've read that 22* is the maximum angle that you should run a DS with a double cardan. If I add any kind of doubler I will increase the length of the drive train from 6-8". This will drastically increase the 21* angle. I know they make high angle drive shafts, but they are not meant for highway use at greater than 22*.

The choices as I see it are:
1. Lower the back of your drive train some at the expense of clearance.
2. Move the rear end back as far as you can.
3. Forget about it and get a STAK or live with a 2sp transfer case.

Anybody else do a doubler on a daily driver without eating u-joints and having vibrations?

Saddleup has a C6/203/205 setup that seems to work fine. Maybe he'll jump in here.

 

[Madgyver]

Saddleup has a C6/203/205 setup that seems to work fine. Maybe he'll jump in here.

Yeah let's see....

 

[COBlu77]

Saddleup moved his rear end back a few inches after he did the conversion. I'm betting he had driveline issues, but he'll never admit it here.

 

[SpareParts]

I have a C6,203/205 doubler with 5 1/2" Cage susp. My rear driveshaft length is about 22". I have the rear end angled straight toward the yoke of the 205. I'm running a Big Bronco (1330) rear driveshaft that was cut down and the CV was clearanced for more angle. I don't drive it on the streets much but I haven't felt any vibrations out of it.

I have the same front shaft but it's 36" long, I tried clearancing it myself. I bound the bronco up and broke the centering pin on it. I don't see where the cv hit itself but it mangled and broke off the pin.

I have not tried to see what kinda angle I was asking for it to run, I've had other projects I've been working on.

Any ideas on my front?

David

 

[bronko69er]

I have moved the rear axle back 4" already so that will help some.

Sorry for the quick hijack,
Who far back can you go before you have rear crossmsmber issues?
[/hijack]

 

[SpareParts]

I've been searching that also, from what I have found was 3" is fairly safe, 4" is enterfearing. Not from experience just what I have read.

David

 

[GWBronco]

I've been searching that also, from what I have found was 3" is fairly safe, 4" is enterfearing. Not from experience just what I have read.

David

We moved my friends rear axle, and getting ready to move mine back, six inches and did not do anything to the crossmember. We are both running fuel cells though.

 

[SpareParts]

The difference in a fuel cell and the reg. tank, the crossmemeber would still stop your diff at full stuff, right?

 

[Silverhorse]

Mine is back 4'' with no crossmember mod. I have a 3" body lift and raised the gas tank up 3".

 

[BUCKETOBOLTS]

I have a C6, a 203, and a 205 sitting in the corner. Haven't bought an adapter yet. Probably wait till I rebuild my rig. I also have a Dodge 203 that I was going to use on the NP435, but decided against after I swapped to an automatic.

 

[Silverhorse]

I have a C6, a 203, and a 205 sitting in the corner. Haven't bought an adapter yet. Probably wait till I rebuild my rig. I also have a Dodge 203 that I was going to use on the NP435, but decided against after I swapped to an automatic.

I Have a 435 and a C-6 combo also, can't decide which way to go!

 

[BUCKETOBOLTS]

My engine performs better with the auto. The manual always seemed like I was in the wrong gear and needed one between 3-4. I'll leave the manual for my GT