NV3550/Dana 20/ Twinstick Issues!!

[WSM29]

Alright so I got the Dana 20 back together after it had been leaking and slid it in place. I noticed when I had it in before that I could not put in the front drive shaft due to the driveshaft hitting the NV3550 cross member. So I figured when I put it back in I would rotate the transfer case up to the next set of bolt holes on the adapter plate to allow clearance for the driveshaft. Well after doing that, I bolted her up and went to slide the twin sticks back in... BIG UPSET!!! ?:?They wont go in.... The only way the adapter bracket will fit is if the tcase is moved back down and then I wont be able to clear the cross member... I am at a loss right now! I am attaching pictures to hopefully clear up the problem. What am I missing here??? Thanks again!

 

[blubuckaroo]

Did you clock the transfer case different whom how it was before? The adapter gives you several transfer case angle options. I marked mine so that couldn't happen when it gets torn down for some reason in the future.

 

[xcntrk]

It's hard to see - that first pic is really small. Looks to me like your cross-member needs to come forward so the D20 can continue to drop downward. There's a small notch in the crossmember that allows the D20 to dip just beneath the surface of the crossmember. The crossmember mounting holes should be elliptical allowing you to loosen the bolts and shuffle the unit forward.

I would also check the following:

• The D20 adapter plate has a little dimple marking proper orientation when you install it to the TC. That dimple has to be closest to the floor-boards. Since the TC sits at an angle (not flat horizontally) that can be confusing.
• On the tranny side of the adapter, you should be using the top hole out of the 3 clocking positions when mating to the tranny. The top hole is the stock position.
• On the tranny itself, you should be using the top holes of the driver side and the lower holes on the passenger side. When using the top holes of the d-side that positions the twinstick bracket in the proper position to function correctly.
• Lastly, once you're certain you have all the brackets and clocking correct, if you still need clearance don't be afraid to modify the twinsticks. I had to heat and re-bend mine a bit more forward, and remove some material from one of the shifter flags (I have a T-case).

 

[WSM29]

Alright so from what I am understanding the front output should be BELOW the cross member? I will look into the bolt pattern again and see what the issue is there. I uploaded the photos again so that they are a bit larger. I have the twin stick bracket on the top bolt holes of the transmission, it looks like I just have to try to get the output shaft below the cross member. I will be able to work on her this next week... Atleast I know where to start! Thanks again!

 

[xcntrk]

Alright so from what I am understanding the front output should be BELOW the cross member?

The front output yoke definitely does not go below. What I was implying is that the TC needs to continue to be dropped downward to the point where the bottom of the case (bottom drain location) will drop below the notch in the crossmember. Here's a pic.. You can see how much of the TC is below the crossmember. The bottom bolt of the output/seal cover is about the point where the crossmember meets the TC with the proper clocking. I think you're just 1 clocking bolt hole off. Should be the first hole out of the 3.

 

[jeffh355]

Don't mean to hijack the thread, but can you bolt/unbolt the front driveshaft without removing the cross member?