NWMP Aux tank mounting

[RedLeg0811]

Hi All,

I have a NWMP Aux tank that I want to mount, but I am not wild about the front carriage bolts going through the floor right by my feet. In my mind it just seems like a crappy spot.

Has anyone else mounted their Aftermarket Aux tank differently then running the bolts through the floor?

Thanks
Martin

 

[camp9k]

Mine is mounted with j bolts through existing holes in the frame.

Thanks
John

 

[reynard101]

Mine is mounted with j bolts through existing holes in the frame.

Thanks
John

I think he's looking at the side mount Auxiliary gas tank.

 

[AZ73]

No pictures (because I'm not there yet), but I've been thinking about this same problem for about 2 years and my solution is to mount it to a step/rock slider which is mounted to the frame instead of the rocker. I was just going to build a frame-mounted Aux tank bracket, but, once again, Nick's Trix inspired me, and I'll extend it out and make a step too. You can get a general idea by looking at his builds:

http://www.nickstrix.com/builds/motomike/moto.html

http://www.nickstrix.com/builds/graham/graham.html

 

[RedLeg0811]

I think he's looking at the side mount Auxiliary gas tank.

That is correct.

 

[RedLeg0811]

That is an idea. I'll have to think about it more.

 

[AZ73]

The thing about that kind of design is you get some protection from a side impact too, which was my original thinking since it's outside the frame rails. I was actually just going to make a internal "U" to mount and protect the tank, and then thought about extending it out to utilize it as a step for utility and more protection for the tank.

 

[01JLH]

Wish i had a picture of the way i did mine, but I don't and the bronco is in new hands now. Maybe i can explain. The body brace that runs across the truck basically under your feet has 2 slots in it for original tank straps. The end of the original tank strap was sort of a T shape. I took some flat bar stock and shaped it on the end with the same T shape and fitted it so that it would lock in to those slots. There were several ways to go from there but i then cut those pieces about 4 or 5 inches long and then drilled them pretty close to the t shaped end and used a standard long hex head bolt hanging down to go through the holes that are on the bottom front edge of the aux steel tank. The 2- 4 or 5 inch t-straps act as a cantilever and as you tighten the 2 bolts up to pull up the tank they lock into the slots very nicely. I did put a piece of rubber strip between the top of the tank and the 2 t-straps to prevent rubbing from vibration. On the back of the tank there is two holes on the bottom edge just like on the front. There is a vertices brace that is just right to take 2 long carriage bolts and bend them using heat right at the head in a 90 degree shape (using your vice and heat source away from the truck and tank of course). You then drill 2 parallel 3/8 inch holes in the vertical brace placed to match the width and alignment of the tank mounting holes. Drop the 2 L shaped carriage bolts through the holes in the brace, put washers and self locking nuts on the bolts and tighten all 4 of the nuts up to pull the tank up to the desired height under the floor pan. Trim off the bolts using your saws all or cutoff tool. This makes for a very clean installation with no carriage bolts going through the floor pans. I personally would have never installed the tank if i had to put bolts through the pans like that.

 

[RedLeg0811]

Interesting 01JLH.

AZ how were you going to mount the step to the frame?

 

[AZ73]

"L" bracket over the top and down the side, although I've seen steps on other trucks (not Broncos) where it's just a flat plate bolted to the side of the frame.

You can run long bolts completely through the frame like your steering box if your body is still on (run the bolt up from the bottom). You'll just have to adapt to your fuel lines on the Driver's side. I don't think there's enough weight with a person standing on it to worry about collapsing the frame so you don't need a wall spacer.

If your body is off you can get crazy. There's an opening in the frame just in front of the radius arm mounts that's big enough to get 2 sets of 2 nuts welded to 1.5X3 inch plate through. There's 2 open holes on the top of the frame to run an electricians snake or one of those long grabby tools through. Grab the plate with 2 nuts and move it down the frame. Use a second grabby tool and thread it through the step mount and frame (while its in place) and move it into position to run a bolt though. Then let go and run the other bolt though. Do the same with the side of the frame. That works if you have the body off.

 

[RedLeg0811]

Thanks AZ

 

[AZ73]

Wish i had a picture of the way i did mine, but I don't and the bronco is in new hands now. Maybe i can explain. The body brace that runs across the truck basically under your feet has 2 slots in it for original tank straps. The end of the original tank strap was sort of a T shape. I took some flat bar stock and shaped it on the end with the same T shape and fitted it so that it would lock in to those slots. There were several ways to go from there but i then cut those pieces about 4 or 5 inches long and then drilled them pretty close to the t shaped end and used a standard long hex head bolt hanging down to go through the holes that are on the bottom front edge of the aux steel tank. The 2- 4 or 5 inch t-straps act as a cantilever and as you tighten the 2 bolts up to pull up the tank they lock into the slots very nicely. I did put a piece of rubber strip between the top of the tank and the 2 t-straps to prevent rubbing from vibration. On the back of the tank there is two holes on the bottom edge just like on the front. There is a vertices brace that is just right to take 2 long carriage bolts and bend them using heat right at the head in a 90 degree shape (using your vice and heat source away from the truck and tank of course). You then drill 2 parallel 3/8 inch holes in the vertical brace placed to match the width and alignment of the tank mounting holes. Drop the 2 L shaped carriage bolts through the holes in the brace, put washers and self locking nuts on the bolts and tighten all 4 of the nuts up to pull the tank up to the desired height under the floor pan. Trim off the bolts using your saws all or cutoff tool. This makes for a very clean installation with no carriage bolts going through the floor pans. I personally would have never installed the tank if i had to put bolts through the pans like that.

Wish you had a picture too. I thought about something like that but I didn't the the "T" slot in the floor cross member would hold the weight without having the original plate bolted back in place.

 

[01JLH]

I would have been sceptical myself if I had seen any rust that would have made me question the structural integrity. The T-shaped cantilevers that i made were made from the thickest bar stock that would fit in the slot.
Also, I personally do not know this as fact, a very knowledgeable friend of mine and I were having a discussion about people cutting this crossmember out in the middle to install various transmissions. This crossmember seems to be the most important weight bearer on the whole vehicle supporting the door posts and cowl with everything that connects there.
He stated that this particular crossmember is the only one that is made and then heat treated when the body is built. I believe there may be something to this.
The aftermarket steel tank only holds a few more gallons than the original which is held by two thin metal straps. By using 4 3/8 inch bolts or threaded rods I, believe without any significant rust damage, there is far more strength there than needed.

 

[AZ73]

I'm actually traveling but I drew this up quickly. It's not to scale since the tank actually will go to the rear further than the rear frame mount. I'll either have to put the mount back further, or make the rear bracket the tank sits on go to the rear further. The tabs on the tank that the original "through the floor bolts" bolt to are the tabs the tank sits on the bracket. But this is the basic design. If you don't want the step/rock slide, just don't have the frame mounts come out all the way.

 

[taipeichris]

AZ73,

Thank you! That's a great drawing considering you're "one the road." An I was expecting something on a paper napkin. Now I'll have just one more thing to add to my "to fabricate/to do" list for the Bronco.

Have a good weekend!
Chris

 

[RedLeg0811]

That would hit two birds with one stone. Step would make the wife happy.