Old Style Painless wiring harness questions

[Z Bronco]

I bought over eight years ago the Painless bronco/scout/landcruiser wiring harness, it is still in the box it came in. I know that the wiring harnesses for broncos have been updated a bit since this one came out, but since I already have it, I am planning on using this harness when I start the rewire of my bronco in the next couple of weeks unless anyone has a good reason why I shouldn't. My guages are all Auto Meter in the dash, I have a flaming river tilt column with wiring adapter, I run an aux. fan for cooling, no radio or cig. lighter in the dash (maybe radio someday?), and I can't think of anything else besides a CB that would need to be hooked up now. I do have a Micro Lock and a mech. oil guage which are mounted in the left side of the dash with lines through the firewall and a Tuffy glovebox on the right side. Also, I do plan on giving myself the option for some future additional accesories. The searches I have done have been very helpful.

My questions are:
1. Any ideas where to mount that big fuse block.
2. Am I crazy for trying to use this harness.
3. Do I use my old crusty connectors for the headlights and other hookups, if not where can I buy new ones.
4. As you can probably tell I have not rewired anything before, so any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Z Bronco

 

[ctowery]

1. Any ideas where to mount that big fuse block. If its the square one remove the glove box and install it there.

2. Am I crazy for trying to use this harness. No3. Do I use my old crusty connectors for the headlights and other hookups, if not where can I buy new ones. I would not..Let me know what you need and I should be able to get you new ones4.

As you can probably tell I have not rewired anything before, so any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Anyone neer you that could help you?


Cary

 

[Z Bronco]

The fuse block won't fit in the Tuffy glove box and my dash has an aluminum overlay so removing the Tuffy box is not really an option. As soon as I can figure out all that I need for connectors, I will let you know. I am on my own for most of the rewire which is okay, part of the bronco fun for me is learning.

Thanks for your reply,
Warren

 

[rjb69bronc]

I mounted my fuse block on the drivers side fender well in the engine compartment. I put it in a waterproof pelican box.

 

[evil69]

I put one of those in a 75 for a guy here in town. I put the fuse block up as far as I could on the passanger's side kick panel. Well, as high as I could and still be accessed. The harness is not the hard part. The "would have been nice to know every single damn switch was bad in the truck" was the hard part. I was never told nothing had worked on the truck for the guy ever, except for the starting and running of the truck. I would test every single switch and make sure they are not at fault before head scratching the wiring. I would get new connectors for the lights since you are there anyways. One thing I found helped was making a disconnect out of trailer connectors for the underdash stuff. That way the dash can be wired and them plugged up instead of trying to hide the excess wiring from wiring the dash in your lap and then bolting it up.

 

[malcolmzilla]

"3. Do I use my old crusty connectors for the headlights and other hookups, if not where can I buy new ones."

New signal and headlight connectors are available at most parts stores. Some guys cut out and re-use the Duraspark connectors and I did re-use some of the stock post connectors for non crtitical connections (not ignition, voltage reg, alternator, etc.), but test 'em with an ohm meter 1st to ensure they're good (low reading = good, low resistance). Solder or crimp and heatshrink to seal.

 

[ctowery]

You might want to also power that main pannel with a Mega Fuze.

If I can help lep me know.

Cary

 

[j.r.nice]

I put mine high on the driver's side kick panel. I wanted to remove the dah mounted e-brake anyway...( roll cage was in the way) and the newly acquired space there was perfect.

I also used a firewall bulkhead connector (like on new vehcles)so the dash can be pulled out

Run a separate relay for your fan. Actually, best to run a separate relay for any heavy draw item not part of the stock system....like driving lights, winch etc.

I elected to replace my old connectors. I wasnt going to invest all that time in wiring it and then have stuff flicker or not work. I used Weatherpack stuff and all well pleased. The only problem I have had with my 'engineering' is a melted connector from the alternator feed. It didnt like the connector.

The nice part about the Flaming River ( I think) and the Painless is they should both use the GM wiring color codes. It made life much easier. (mine was the JBG tilt column - but I assume they do the same)