Lots of good info here in various threads, so check some out for more detailed info than I might give here. Basically though, the difference between the '76/'77 EB steering knuckles and all the rest, is that the steering arm part of the casting on those rigs that used the Y steering is shaped in such a way as to get awfully close to the rim edge. Installing larger bodied tie-rod ends, or moving them to the top as in a TRO, simply puts them in contact with the wheel.
Now, with your 10" wide wheels, IF they have a lot of negative offset (less backspacing) there may be enough clearance. But with so many variations on wheel design, you won't know until you either do some calculations or just put it all together and find out.
Some wheel designs are also thicker or thinner at that critical area, so while most hit, some might not. Has to be the perfect storm of the combined characteristics. But the bottom line is that the steering arm on those particular models is just making life harder for us modifiers.
If you have the axle, and have a wheel, go grab one rod end and try it on for size. First in the stock orientation, then maybe eyeball it for TRO duties too.
If it rubs, the solutions are either new wheels, Plan-B on the rod ends, or new steering knuckles. The simplest swap is the '76 through '79 full-size F150/Bronco knuckles. The coolest might be a set of Reid Racing heavy duty knuckles or something even more exotic. For the hardware, maybe some spherical rod ends (like Heims) would allow for more clearance between the rim edge and rod end. But as you get into the larger truck sizes of that type of product, you can still run afoul of the wheel. So you still have to be selective.
Good luck. But test first!
Paul
