Optishift/Painless/EFI wiring help

[stretch]

Here goes. Not a wiring guy so bear with me. Rewiring the Bronco with the Painless harness. I have the RF/RJM EFI harness with the optishift plugged in. One of my many questions is which wires do I need to connect the four white wires from the controller? The backup lights are self explanatory but what I have left are "start relay", "ign start", "12v in run". Do these wires need to be connected to the neutral safety wires in the new harness?

 

[Dannyboy71]

This is not for the painless harness, but the centec but it might help. Hopefully Dirt Donk will chime in on this for you.http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=221442&highlight=centech

 

[duffymahoney]

It explained pretty well in the manual. I can help, I just went through all of it.

 

[stretch]

Thanks gents. Duffy I may take you up on your offer. The problem I'm having is that both red/blue nuetral safety wires that I've identified have the same wire number. I believe this isn't correct. I'll check back in when I get home and post wire numbers.

 

[DirtDonk]

That's normal and it doesn't matter which one gets connected to which. The NSS is just an open/close (or on/off) switch and is not "normally" polarity sensitive.
All it's doing is breaking the connection to the starter relay so that you can't start the engine unless the trans is in the proper shift positions.
Since Optishift bothers to mark their wires specifically, it is a good idea to use that and trace which of the #919's comes from the ignition switch and which side goes to the starter relay on the fender. Assuming you're still using one that is?

So just like the backup lamps, on a standard NSS connection you can connect it to either Red w/blue wire. In the Painless harness both are labeled as #919 for this reason.
That said, you do have an "ignition switch" side and a "starter relay/solenoid" side on the Painless harness. So connect whichever side comes from the ignition switch to the Optishift's "ign start" wire, and the one that goes out to the starter relay to the "start relay" wire of the Optishift.
The "relay" in this case is what most people call the starter solenoid. Since it is in fact just a big heavy duty relay, that's likely why Optishift people have labeled it as such.

The "12v in run" wire simply needs a keyed-on wire connected to it.

I'll check the Painless instructions to make sure I didn't lead you down a path of destruction, but it seems pretty straightforward based on their wording.

Paul

 

[stretch]

Paul, I appreciate the input. Wired it last night. I'm sure I'll have more questions for the group once I start cleaning up the wiring to the starter solenoid and the explorer 4G

 

[stretch]

As promised I need to run the start circuit by everyone. RF EFI harness with the 4G pigtail to the alternator and newly installed painless harness. Currently I have the purple and the red/blue wired to the "I" terminal of the solenoid. I have the black and black/yel terminated to a fuse block then the black continues to a mega fuse that is fed from the alternator.
Vehicle starts and runs fine. The problem that I'm having is that the 4G is not producing power. I get 12.6 volts at the battery and the alternator. As I mentioned before the grn/red from the alternator plugs into the RF harness. Should I try disconnecting this and run to the red/green in the harness? The alternator has been checked at the local auto parts store and works fine.
Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Attac]

stretch
I also was a little confused about my painless when doing my one wire 3g alt. Painless gives wires for all setups and you don't use a bunch of them but when I called them they walked me right through. Give them a call and they will set you right up. I am assuming 4g is similar to 3g. (also not a wiring guy here so if they helped me they can help anyone)
chuck

 

[DirtDonk]

What Chuck said. And yes, the 4G wires up just like a 3G as far as sensing and exciting wires are concerned.

Check the Green w/red wire at the alternator. Is it getting 12v with the key ON but the engine off? If it does not, then your alternator will never turn on.
Is the Yellow wire from the alternator's 3-wire plug still attached to the output stud that goes to the battery?
Is the White w/black wire from the 3-wire plug attached to it's push-on connector nearby on the alternator?

Paul

 

[stretch]

Paul,

I'll check the voltage when I get home. Going off memory, the 4G only uses two of the three wires coming from the alternator. I believe RJM suggested that you just cut off the white/blk middle wire. The yellow wire is hooked up as you mentioned and the green/red is hooked to a solid green from the RF/RJM harness.

 

[stretch]

I slipped away for a long lunch and was able to confirm that the green/red does have power with the ignition in run, engine not running. I don't understand why the alternator is not turning on?

 

[stretch]

Alright, to bring this back up to the top and possibly help someone else in the future. The wiring to the solenoid was correct as was the wiring to the alternator. 12v in run at the alternator (previously tested as good) and it wasn't charging. Finally got sick of chasing electrical ghosts, I took the alternator out and had it tested again at a more reputable establishment (not the zone). Alternator was bad. New one installed all is well.

I want to thank everyones input.

 

[DirtDonk]

Yikes. I hate chasing tails in a big wide circle on bad parts!
Glad you went that extra step and found out. Thanks for letting us know.

Now maybe you can put some of that hair you pulled out back in?;D

Paul