Basically, all wiring harnesses are "compatible" with all the normal accessories we're talking about here.
Some just need a little extra work (not much, but it's there) to make it more compatible.
Do you know the part number on the Painless harness?
Be sure to read their instructions 23.5 times before digging too deep. Does help to be more familiar before starting.
And be aware of what others have talked about here and on their facebook members forum, about noise from cheap HEI distributors (I think that was one of their subjects?) and improperly reading CTS (Coolant Temp Sensor) included in their kit. If it's a newer kit, this may not be an issue anymore.
Be aware that with anything over 70 amps output, your standard charge wires and ammeter gauge will no longer function. If you use a modest alternator this is not an issue. But if you use a more powerful unit, you might consider changing to a volt-meter instead. Before you install the cluster!
Your existing alternator should be fine, but if you upgrade to a more powerful one, it's one more thing to be aware of.
Puts out a good spark, needs fewer wires to work, but can be noisy for the EFI and definitely helps to have a body lift to help it clear the hood.
It still could get in the way of most air cleaners you might choose (except stock), so keep that in mind as well.
Look for a brand name just so you know what you have.
As always, I recommend the biggest, baddest, most powerful battery you can fit or afford. I like AGM styles because they don't normally leak or leave corrosion, and are very reliable and shock-resistant too in general.
Generally, anything over 600cca is fine for a 302 (double the cubic inches is the old rule of thumb) but the more the better.
The more RC (reserve capacity) the better too.
When there is a choice, get the "R" version (as in, "34R") to keep the positive terminal on the radiator side, rather than the fender side. Just too close to the metal for comfort in my opinion.
Steering column: flaming river
Good stuff. But as usual, with the GM wiring plug, it's a lot of "fun" (big hassle in other words) to connect all the wires.
It's not the end of the world, just takes some time to figure out what goes where. Someone posted up a cross-reference recently, so look for that to make wiring the turn-signal switch easier.
Alternator: ultima 01-0039
Voltage regulator: none (don’t know)
So which voltage regulator do I need?
With your existing alternator you may not need one. Wait for confirmation, but I believe it's an internally regulated alternator. Needing no additional regulation other than what's built in.
I kind of hate all the swaps myself. Not from a purely purist "don't use GM stuff on my Ford!" standpoint, but more of a "it's easier to figure out later down the road if you keep it Ford" standpoint.
If you can sell yours before you need to install it then, you can get a Ford 3G and use that. More power, easier for most people working on Fords to know what you have (though most mechanics should be familiar with Delco alternators!) and very good low rpm power output and reliability.
Dura spark: none (don’t know)
As already said, it's one OR the other. You already have an HEI unit, so don't need any of the Ford Dura Spark components.
Also I have to correct myself, the truck did have wiring but it was in a ball in the bed LOL.
That'll buff out!
Definitely do yourself a favor and replace that starter cable. It doesn't look that old, or in bad condition, but someone obviously just had one of a certain length and made it fit!
You'd be better off with one that was just long enough to run cleanly to the starter directly from the starter relay without running around the whole front of the truck first!
Looks like 4ga, which is usually large enough, but that extra length compromises any advantage you had from a decently sized cable.
I would use 2ga because they're not that much more expensive (a couple of bucks usually) and you can choose one that's a more appropriate length.
If you don't already have good new battery cables too, also use 2ga if you can, and also keep them as short as possible without making it hard to route them out of the way of stuff.
How can you tell which alternators need a voltage regulator and which don’t?
That's an AC Delco / GM alternator, but I'm only half-sure it's an internally regulated version which would not need an external regulator. So if I'm correct, your existing one does not need a regulator.
Cooler minds should prevail though, and we should look at some diagrams/images that show the different ones so we can be sure.
Again, nothing wrong with using a Delco alternator on a Ford, and because it's a 63a version you don't need to lose your ammeter or replace the charge wire. A regular wire will work.
But this may come back to which Painless harness you have, so we know which might be the best way to proceed. Might not matter, but it might...
Paul
