Paint gurus and Rust Bullet users... need some advice

[Jeff B]

I've been taking all the body sheet metal (hood, tailgate, fenders, windshield frame, etc.) down to bear metal. So far, all the metal is excellent so I'm very happy!

Here's my question: should I just prime and paint the parts and rig BECAUSE the metal is in such excellent shape, or should I spray some auto RUST BULLET with the HVLP gun first then prime and paint to keep the metal good for the next 30-40 years? I've already got the rust bullet and I'm in a great auto paint and collision repair class at the local community college. I will be doing the body work and painting myself.

Also, was just on the Rust Bullet website and saw there new product BLACKSHELL. Anyone use this at all? Wondering if this is just POR-15 or there own mix of something.

TIA

 

[BroncoJAK]

I'd spray a good epoxy primer on all the sheet metal. It will keep it from rusting as filler primer will absorb moisture. You can do your bodywork over the primer as well. Keep it out of the sun as some are photodegradable. Found that out the hard way. Heard of several having problems with the rust bullet. If you plan on a liner stay away from the self etching as the liner will lift it from the metal. Hope this helps, but I would also hope the instructor at the CC could have answered your questions. Keep us informed and we like pictures.

 

[bigmuddy]

Jeff B, do not prime your clean sheet metal with the rust bullet. It wasn't designed to keep metal from rusting but to convert rusty sheet metal and it won't rust again. Follow yellowrouges advice.

Ben

 

[bsaunder]

Another reason not to use the rust bullet on the good metal - it will increase your prep work between coats as it does not come out nice and flat, but rather with a textured surface when sprayed. I had enough problems with a few pieces trying to get it smooth that I had them re blasted so I could start over.

 

[ransil]

Use the rust bullet on the inner panels / cavities to fill the seams in the metal.
Rust starts where moisture is trapped.
No trap , no moisture = no rust

 

[byson1]

I'm in the final stage of painting my rig and although I'm not a pro, after much research and work this is what I've learned. As stated, a good 2k epoxy primer is the best thing to put on bare metal. It's waterproof and sticks great without any other typer of "etching" primer. Some people use body filler (if needed) over the epoxy and some use it directly to the metal and then spray the epoxy. This is an ongoing debate among the pros but I believe either method is fine. Concerning body filler, skip the Bondo brand. Get some Evercoat rage or rage gold. It's not too much more money and won't shrink over time like the Bondo. After the epoxy primer use a good urethane 2k primer. Block and sand and then paint with a good urethane top coat or base coat/clear coat system. There are MANY different way to paint a vehicle but this method seems to be the way most are doing it now. Whatever the case, don't use the rust bullet as the base for you paint job. It was never designed for that.

 

[helmetguy]

As a custom painter, I don't think I would have done it any different than byson1 stated. He is right on with the body fillers!
As long as the bare metal is good and clean the 2K epoxy primers are the best. There are several self etching primers out there that work great but as stated, start clean and you should be okay. Wipe it down with reducer and then follow with a clean lint free rag. Blow it off prior to primer. The 2K primers are somewhat slower to flash. Be patient before the 2nd coat. You can follow the 2nd coat with a 3rd that is about 25-30% reducer (much like a primer/sealer) mixed in. This makes for a good smooth final that sands easy if need be.

Wipe it clean after it dries and get after it with the base coat/clearcoat. Don't put any more paint on than necessary. All you want to do is cover it with color. 2 medium coats usually. Same with the clear, 2-3 med coats. Be sure to use a tack rag in-between the color coats and prior to clear.
Nason (made by DuPont) has a 2 part clear that works really good, durable and excellent finish. Available from DuPont dealers and some O'Reilly Auto parts stores. About $89 to $100 for 1 gallon clear and 1 qt hardner (mixes 4-1)

http://picasaweb.google.com/REEVESRacing/2006Baja1000/photo#s5002334057797779474
http://picasaweb.google.com/REEVESRacing/2006Baja1000/photo#s5002334084893376530
Pics of our racer and helmets, all painted with Nason and DuPont paints and Nason clear.
Thanks to Rich Reeves for the photos.
Pat

 

[Madgyver]

ditto on the epoxy primer