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Painted door strikers

jasonmcc

Full Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2018
Messages
395
Loc.
Nola -> Utah
So I’m looking at replacing my door strikers. The issue I have is the PO painted them and I can’t get them to unscrew. Tips/suggestions on the best way to get these off?

bdc359ead8aa47876a179a87498a396a.jpg



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Last edited:

Slowleak

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 12, 2013
Messages
3,837
Loc.
Georgia
The screws are probably rusted into the backing plates. You can get to them from the back side. Reach up inside the quarter panel and hose them down with some penetrating oil. Let it soak for a day or so.
 

Jfryjfry

Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2017
Messages
503
Worst case, if you strip them out, weld a nut to the screws. The heat will definitely help and he’ll probably pop out. If not, you can drill them out. But you might end up tearing up the capturing metal in the back. Nothing you can’t overcome however n
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
Screws go through to the back side use allot of pb blaster on the back side. Let it soak a couple of days. Then use the impact hammer. Dont hit the impact with a hammer hit it with a big hammer and hit it hard. Make sure the phillips bit is large and fits tight.
 

Lawndart

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2014
Messages
906
Loc.
66030
Although it looks like a phillips head, it is not. There is a proper "bit" for the striker screws. It looks like a phillips with angular supports between the phillips portions. I probably explained it poorly, but I have this bit and your best bet to remove them without stripping anything. A cycle or two of heat and some penetrating lube on the backside also helps.
 
Joined
Oct 7, 2015
Messages
23
Loc.
Boozy Creek, VA
I just replaced my striker this weekend. I hit it with pb blaster a couple of days ahead of time but couldn't get it to come loose using only hand tools. I had to use a small propane torch to warm the screws up and then used my impact driver with the right sized bit for the screws.

You don't need to get the screws too hot, just hot enough for them to start to grow in length. You will be able to see a clear ring develop around the screw head where it is in the striker when it grows. The impact driver was able to unscrew them after that. Mine is a Ryobi and it's not very strong but the high impacts per minute is what does the trick.

One thing I did that may have saved some aggravation was I only removed one screw completely while leaving the other one in only holding by a couple of threads. I was able to rotate the old striker out of the way and installed the new striker with one screw before I finally removed the other old screw and striker. That way I didn't chance dropping the backing plate and having to retrieve it.
 

half cab

Contributor
Guru Bronco
Joined
Dec 8, 2010
Messages
16,289
Some strikers were painted from the factory btw.
 

Vintagetin

Jr. Member
Joined
May 19, 2017
Messages
58
Try cutting around the edge of the screwhead with a razor knife so the screw turns by it self. It will release some resistance and save the paint. Also try to spray the back of the threads. I'm sure it will take a lot of a few turns out, then turn back in, to help clean the threads and reduce buildup on the threads. Good Luck.
 
OP
OP
jasonmcc

jasonmcc

Full Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2018
Messages
395
Loc.
Nola -> Utah
So with some heat and some PB I was able to get them off. It looks like the backing plates are trashed so I have some new ones on order from WH. Does anyone have any suggestions on the best way to clean up the striker area that’s rusted in the door well without damaging the paint around it? (See pic).

76ed1709b809a636bd66587bc7751015.jpg



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Bronco4x4

Sr. Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2009
Messages
601
Scotchbrite by hand (tape off perimeter to minimize scratches). You can brush paint Rust Bullet or POR afterwards with a brush. Sand then Top Coat with a brush >> If you can't find blue enamel either look up pin striping paint (enamel) or Testors in the hobby store. You may have to get other colors with the blue (eg. white, black) to mix the color to match as close as possible.
 

langester

Contributor
MASTER OF MADNESS
Joined
Mar 2, 2013
Messages
2,672
This is no help to you but when I grafted my rear fenders on from a 65 truck I moved the metal to get the striker posts on the inside of the cab instead of in the fender well. Those things are a pain to get loose sometimes.
Good luck!
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
Based on the impact marks on you striker posts you could use an extra post shim between the post and the bed jamb. It will lock up easier and help get rid of the bang on top of the post as you close the door. Look for impact marks on the door locking mechinism. Outside the actual lock up cams.
 
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