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Painting Inside of frame - my method (long)

doghauler

Jr. Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2006
Messages
187
Loc.
Western WA State
Just finished my frame and I decided I give a summary of how I got the inside cleaned and painted. My first step was to duct tape a 7 foot piece of 1.5 inch PVC pipe on the end of my shop vac and clean out each tube from both ends. I followed this with a cleaning from the pressure washer, again from both ends of the tube. I let it dry, then I took the same PVC pipe and stuff my shoe-handle wire brush in one end and wire brushed all four sides from both ends, then blew out the dust. Next I built an extension out of ½ inch PVC about 7 feet long with a 45 degree fitting on one end that I attached to my sandblaster. The setup was: Blaster hose to on-off valve, PVC pipe, 45 fitting, blaster tip. You can get all the pipe fittings at the local hardware store. I was able to stuff the pipe in each end, and with 45 I was able to blast each interior wall fairly well. I used the similar method that I used with the wire brush, attacked one interior wall at a time, rotate 90 degrees, blast, rotate, etc.
Next I bought a cheap garden sprayer and extended the hose between the spray head and the tank. I ran the hose down the center of the same ½ inch PVC I used for sandblasting and attached the wand to one end, filled the sprayer with Marine Clean, sprayed, let sit, rinse, dry, did the same with the Metal Ready.
After that, I put POR 15 in the sprayer (thinned 5 percent). Since it was too thick to spray, I used the garden sprayer to apply the POR inside the frame then I ran a sponge through the frame. (I had previously cut it to fit just inside the frame and soaked it in POR, and I had also taped over the holes in the frame) I used a length of spring-wire I had laying around, ran it down the frame, attached the sponge, pulled it through. I then rotated the frame so it was sitting on its side, repeat, rotate so it’s upside down, repeat, etc, until all four sides were done.
Things I learned: 1) It’s messy, put a lot of plastic down if you want to keep it off your shop floor, even well past the ends since your sprayer wand and spring wire are going to be covered in POR. 2) Wear nice rubber gloves when you use POR, I wore the disposable latex ones (doubled up) and still got a little on one hand. It does not come off. (like the label says!) 3) I used a flat washer on the end of my spring wire setup to prevent it from pulling through the sponge, but somehow lost it in the middle of the frame on one trip through. I was able to get it out, but should have figured out a better way (bigger washer? Huh. %) )
I’ve looked inside my frame with a flashlight and it looks to be completely coated with the exception of a little bit around the bolt-backer plates on the front drivers side. Other than that it looks all black.
I know this seems like a lot of work, but I could not find anyone in my area that would clean the inside and I really wanted to get it done. I know there are options to galvanized, but I didn’t want to spend that much. All told (sprayer, sand, POR, etc) I’m into it about $200, the inside has one (sloppy heavy) coat of POR, the outside 2 coats of POR and one coat of Blackcoat.
That's that, and it's done!
Thanks.
 

MattMoe

Contributor
Full Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2005
Messages
454
Loc.
Baton Rouge
wow, sounds like you needs some practice on the procedure, come on over and I will let you practice on mine.



Nice, thanks for the write up.
 

trailpsycho

Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 11, 2003
Messages
4,856
Hot dip galvanizing would run about $250-300 depending on the shop/site/company. Basically, there is a minimum set-up fee...HDP is priced based on weight, so a 300 lb frame is negligable....you could probably have your frame, cage, etc all done for the same price. I had a "connection" so I paid a 'little less'...it cost about $125 to have it blasted prior to, as well. I would have been willing to pay the full price though. Not trying to poop on your success or steal your thunder...just trying to provide the info for others. I am sure that the POR will work out great for you...sounds like a great system for cleaning.

John
 
OP
OP
doghauler

doghauler

Jr. Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2006
Messages
187
Loc.
Western WA State
Trailphysco- not stealing my thunder at all, to each his/her own. I looked into having it blasted, and in my area no one was able (or willing more like it) to blast the inside, and I contacted 5 places. Faced with the task of getting all setup to clean the inside, I elected to just do it all. I call it a "learing experience" as in "I learned cleaning and painting inside the frame is a pain in the a## "
 

deltarat

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 12, 2006
Messages
3,371
Loc.
Drew,Ms
I wish I had thought to do the inside when I was doing my frame. It will probably rust more on the inside than the out.
 

turbotim2

____________
Joined
Jun 26, 2003
Messages
1,966
Doghauler - when you say cheap garden sprayer, do you mean like a pesticide or fertilizer sprayer? Something you hand pump?
 
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OP
doghauler

doghauler

Jr. Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2006
Messages
187
Loc.
Western WA State
Yep. A $9.99 pesticide sprayer, plastic tank, pump type. It had a 45 degree tip and you could adjust it to spray in a big cone instead of a stream. It didn't work well with the POR since it was thick, but for the Marine Clean and Metal Ready it was perfect. For the POR, I bascially used it to deposit a supply of paint the length of the frame that the pre-soaked sponge spread out. All in all it was a success, messy, but successful!
 

turbotim2

____________
Joined
Jun 26, 2003
Messages
1,966
Ok, cool. I would consider the galvanizing method but there is no one near me that does it, and the places a few hundred miles away never responded. I have been thinking about just what you did! Thanks!
 

rubberneck

Contributor
New Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2003
Messages
146
Loc.
Severn, Maryland
doghauler said:
Trailphysco- not stealing my thunder at all, to each his/her own. I looked into having it blasted, and in my area no one was able (or willing more like it) to blast the inside, and I contacted 5 places. Faced with the task of getting all setup to clean the inside, I elected to just do it all. I call it a "learing experience" as in "I learned cleaning and painting inside the frame is a pain in the a## "


a while back I had a hard top stripped (dipped). it stripped off everything. The place was called city strippers near DC. and the guy had huge tanks of some type of stripping chemical, he just hooked up the hard top and lowered it in. when it came out there was nothing but pure steel left over. no rust, dirt, paint, debris --- nothing .

I would assume that the frame would be no different.
 

ken75ranger

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 27, 2002
Messages
5,069
Loc.
Troy, NY
rubberneck said:
a while back I had a hard top stripped (dipped). it stripped off everything. The place was called city strippers near DC. and the guy had huge tanks of some type of stripping chemical, he just hooked up the hard top and lowered it in. when it came out there was nothing but pure steel left over. no rust, dirt, paint, debris --- nothing .

I would assume that the frame would be no different.
The acid bath they use before galvanizing is a little different than what a stripper uses. Rust is ok for acid bath but it won't always take off paint. Still stripping might be cheaper than getting it blasted though.
 

trailpsycho

Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 11, 2003
Messages
4,856
The blaster took all the paint, etc off, he also got into the frame as much as he could. We then wrappred it in packing (stretchy-type saran-wrap like stuff) and hauled it down to my buddy's plant in Nashville. They start with an acid dip (pickling) which is a cleaning/rust removing process, it thens goes into a quench bath, then a phosphate bath, then into molten zinc. When it comes out it looks like it is chromed...for a couple of days until it starts to oxidize a little. You can use it like that OR you can paint it, to paint it, you must have it etched--this was done by a method called sweep blasting, this is a very light sandblasting method where they try to make a bit of a profile (texture in the zinc layer), it also removes any of the oxidation that has occurred since the HDG process. This provides optimal adhesion. You then have to use a zinc compatible system...unfortunately, the system we were planning to use was in short supply at the time due to an impending job, so we went to Sherman Williams and got one of their Industrial/Marine lines of primer and polyurethane. I will post a few pics of the process. As I said above, I have noticed that a good beating on the frame will chip some of the paint, but I just touch it up with rattle can while I finish the build. I am a little dissapointed in the SW finish, but I was pre-warned that its very difficult to get good bonding to the zinc. I have been reassured that either way, it will be many, many years (20+) before I have to worry about it...even in a harsh, salty environment....in an ideal environment, its good for another 50 yrs. More gratuitous pics.
 

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