Painting over old paint

[jperry1290]

My 70 EB's paint is shot. This will be a 50/50 street and trail rig and will be parked outside 365 days a year. I am looking to just scuff and shoot. Can I just DA the stock paint with 220, spray primer sealer, lightly sand primer, then paint?

 

[Bronco73]

It will need to be sealed with an epoxy primmer/sealer. The old lacquer paint can react to the new paint and lift/wrinkle. If you use a cheaper paint then it may not affect the old paint.

 

[bknbronco]

My 70 EB's paint is shot. This will be a 50/50 street and trail rig and will be parked outside 365 days a year. I am looking to just scuff and shoot. Can I just DA the stock paint with 220, spray primer sealer, lightly sand primer, then paint?

Im a beginner at this painting but im sure allenfahey will chime in and help you out! Sand with 320 then scuff with red scotchbrite pad, wipe down and tack cloth it off. Spray with a sealer primer, let flash off, then topcoat. No need to sand twice. im no expert but i think thats how you do it. Ill await corrections from allen!;D

 

[thegreatjustino]

Im a beginner at this painting but im sure allenfahey will chime in and help you out! Sand with 320 then scuff with red scotchbrite pad, wipe down and tack cloth it off. Spray with epoxy primer mixed as a sealer, let flash off, then topcoat. No need to sand twice. im no expert but i think thats how you do it. Ill await corrections from allen!;D

I'd do the same thing. The flash time on sealer is around 20 minutes. Shoot it with the epoxy, let it flash, then paint.

 

[jperry1290]

i was reading that 2k urethane primer can be used over old paint. i cant get standard epoxy where i live, just 2k epoxy

 

[thegreatjustino]

i was reading that 2k urethane primer can be used over old paint. i cant get standard epoxy where i live, just 2k epoxy

I know CA went to water borne paints a while back. Does that regulation prevent paint shops from selling PPG DP anymore? It's a very good sealer and is what I would use over the scuffed original paint if you can still get it.

 

[allenfahey]

Im a beginner at this painting but im sure allenfahey will chime in and help you out! Sand with 320 then scuff with red scotchbrite pad, wipe down and tack cloth it off. Spray with epoxy primer mixed as a sealer, let flash off, then topcoat. No need to sand twice. im no expert but i think thats how you do it. Ill await corrections from allen!;D

That's how I would do it but it won't look too good if you are painting over old paint that is chipped, crows feet, cracked, dented paint.

You don't have to use an epoxy if no bare metal is exposed. You can just use a 2K primer mixed and reduced as a sealer then paint.

There is both water bourne basecoat and primer. I think the only VOC restriction in CA is for the base coat. East cost and the rest of the country is soonn to follow CA and switch from solvent base to water. I haven't heard anything about the primer. Primer has low VOC's to begin with though.

 

[badmuttstang]

You don't have to use an epoxy if no bare metal is exposed. You can just use a 2K primer mixed and reduced as a sealer then paint.

There is both water bourne basecoat and primer. I think the only VOC restriction in CA is for the base coat. East cost and the rest of the country is soon to follow CA and switch from solvent base to water. I haven't heard anything about the primer. Primer has low VOC's to begin with though.

As allenfahey stated no need to use epoxy primer unless its bare steel. One big step no one has said yet though is clean the hell out of it before doing any sanding use dish soap not a car wash soap then wipe down with some wax and grease remover. If you have any deep scratch then use 220-240 grit sand paper then hit the whole thing with 320 grit after sanding wipe down one more time with wax and grease remover. Wear gloves because the oils from your hands will bleed thru the paint. Shoot your primer and depending on how it looks i.e. runs, orange peel,dirt or sand scratches will determine if you can just let the primer flash and then spray your top coat. If you have any of the problems mentioned before then let the primer cure and use red scotchbrit on the whole thing and 320-400 grit for any really bad spots if you break thru the primer coat during this then you will need to re-shoot the primer and then shoot your final coat. I know it sounds like a lot of work but there is nothing like spending a lot of time and money to have to redo it because the paint has peeled or blistered. That just my 2cents from being a painter for over 13 years.

 

[jperry1290]

Some metal is showing along with primer and a few different colors of paint. I can't seem to find epoxy primer anywhere including online, except summit racing and they won't ship it to ca.

 

[thegreatjustino]

This is what you are looking for:

https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProdu...roductID=c98c3f28-89c5-467d-9983-e87c240f4c09

Comes in other colors than black as well (90 is black, 40 is gray I believe). It comes in six or seven colors.

I've bought this numerous times at my local autobody shop. Unless the waterborne regulations prevent them from selling it anymore, it should be available.

B & Z Auto Color
3200 West Lane
Stockton, CA 95204-3529
(209) 933-1099

 

[allenfahey]

How much metal is showing? If it's a little sand thru here and there you can use a spray can etch or 1K. Then lightly scuff it, sealer, then paint.

 

[jperry1290]

thanks for the help guys. there is only a small amount of bare metal showing throught. i did read the tech sheet on a few urethane primers and it says that it will work on bare metal. some of the hot rod forums have covered the same discussion and guys have used urethane with no issues. they actually mention that epoxy is "old tech"

 

[badmuttstang]

That is true there is a-lot of different paint systems out there. The newest one I like is water based makes clean up real easy and you really don't need a respirator. Your best beat is to find a paint supply store near you tell them what your doing and have them help pick a brand and type/system that will work best for you big thing is using paints that are compatible with one another.

 

[allenfahey]

That is true there is a-lot of different paint systems out there. The newest one I like is water based makes clean up real easy and you really don't need a respirator. Your best beat is to find a paint supply store near you tell them what your doing and have them help pick a brand and type/system that will work best for you big thing is using paints that are compatible with one another.

It is important to use the same system if you are using it wet on wet. For a primer that you sand it's OK to use a different brand since that is a mechanical bond and not a chemical one.

You definatly need a respirator. No matter what type it is. Just because it is waterbourne does not mean it's safe. I've been to Glasurit's 90 line waterbourne demo and also several ICAR training and all said to use a respirator at all times.