Partial working turn signals

[CSwill]

I was replacing my ignition switch this week and after i got that all to work properly I looked over stuff and only half my turn signals work.
My passenger front works and my driver rear but the passenger rear and driver front does not. They all flash with my emergency flashers but don’t work normally.
Could a bad turn signal flasher cause this? Or some sort of bad ground?
I could use some help

 

[DirtDonk]

Maybe on a bad ground, no on a bad flasher.
If any turn signal works, the flasher works. If the 4-way flashers work, then that separate flasher is good too.
Since they all work on the hazards, your bulbs and wires are good from the turn signal switch back. Frankly, even though wierdness like this seems to always end up being a bad ground, in your case it would not seem so. Otherwise, the other lighting positions would not work either.

Are you sure they were all working before you changed the ignition switch? Maybe it just happens that you just noticed the issue?
What year is your Bronco? Hazard switch in the dash next to the ignition switch? Could you have dislodged a wire or two somewhere?

The only other regular culprit in this kind of thing is the turn signal switch itself. All roads lead through that one junction. The TS switch is common to all four corners, and separates the brake lights from the rest.
When you turn on the flashers, do they stop flashing when you hit the brake pedal?
When you have the hazards going, OR you have the working turn signals, does the appropriate indicator light up on the dash? Even on the non-flashing side? This is tied to the front lamps only, so that might help narrow down what's going on with the front side that does not work.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[CSwill]

Maybe on a bad ground, no on a bad flasher.
If any turn signal works, the flasher works. If the 4-way flashers work, then that separate flasher is good too.
Since they all work on the hazards, your bulbs and wires are good from the turn signal switch back. Frankly, even though wierdness like this seems to always end up being a bad ground, in your case it would not seem so. Otherwise, the other lighting positions would not work either.

Are you sure they were all working before you changed the ignition switch? Maybe it just happens that you just noticed the issue?
What year is your Bronco? Hazard switch in the dash next to the ignition switch? Could you have dislodged a wire or two somewhere?

The only other regular culprit in this kind of thing is the turn signal switch itself. All roads lead through that one junction. The TS switch is common to all four corners, and separates the brake lights from the rest.
When you turn on the flashers, do they stop flashing when you hit the brake pedal?
When you have the hazards going, OR you have the working turn signals, does the appropriate indicator light up on the dash? Even on the non-flashing side? This is tied to the front lamps only, so that might help narrow down what's going on with the front side that does not work.

Good luck.

Paul

I have a 71. I am pretty sure they were working before I changed the ignition switch but a couple days before I changed it i did realize that the driver side indicator in the dash stopped working so they could have screwed up then and I haven’t noticed any disconnect wires other than ones that were disconnected before when they did work
I also noticed my brake switch is out too but i have no idea when it went out

 

[DirtDonk]

Well bummer. Sounds like you have a few things to track down then.
Might not be just one thing, so you really do have to cover all the basics.
Check all the bulbs and sockets even though they appear to be good because your four ways work.
Double check your grounds, and make sure you have a body ground from the battery. The factory had one, but seems like about 90% of the time when someone replaces the negative battery cable, they only connect it to the engine.

 

[CSwill]

Should all the points in my turn signal switch have power to them at some point cause I only have power at two of them and then when i run a jumper from those I can get my other turn signals too work

 

[DirtDonk]

Brake power only goes up to the switch when the brake pedal is depressed. So that’s one wire that does not have power all the time.
Hazard power only comes up the column when the knob is pulled on the dash. So that might be another one.
The only one with constant power that I know of is the horn. So I assume you’re talking about when you turn the key ON or ACC? if so, I’d have to look at a diagram to refresh my memory.
Hopefully someone here will know that.

 

[DirtDonk]

But the fact that you could jump some items and get the lights to work, tells me that you’re zeroing in on it and it sounds like the switch itself.
Can you itemize the points of contact that you are jumping? At least the wire colors?

 

[CSwill]

I have a new turn signal switch from wildhorses so idk if the wire colors are the same but when I jump the white with blue stripe (which has power with the key on) too the orange wire it makes the passenger rear turn signal work

And when i jump the green with red (which has power when the key is on) too the green wire it makes my driver front signal work

 

[CSwill]

I’m thinking that maybe my turn signal switch is broken somehow but I am still unsure so I will look more into the wiring but that’s the only thing that makes sense right now

 

[sprdv1]

I have a new turn signal switch from wildhorses so idk if the wire colors are the same but when I jump the white with blue stripe (which has power with the key on) too the orange wire it makes the passenger rear turn signal work

And when i jump the green with red (which has power when the key is on) too the green wire it makes my driver front signal work

interesting..

 

[sprdv1]

Well bummer. Sounds like you have a few things to track down then.
Might not be just one thing, so you really do have to cover all the basics.
Check all the bulbs and sockets even though they appear to be good because your four ways work.
Double check your grounds, and make sure you have a body ground from the battery. The factory had one, but seems like about 90% of the time when someone replaces the negative battery cable, they only connect it to the engine.

always some tracking down to do