Pitman Arm Removal

[TexasBronco]

I have a problem with removing my pitman arm. I went through 2 steering arm pullers this afternoon. I would get them all lined up pefect then use and impact to spin the bolt. The first one had the tip of that bolt break off, and the second one stripped all the threads on that bolt. Both of these resulted in NO MOVEMENT of the arm. Any tips on removing this w/o breaking another puller?

 

[eBronc]

Soak it in Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster, then heat it good with a propane torch. Use a wrench on (another) puller to apply tension to the arm, then give the side of the arm a few GOOD whacks with a hammer to set up vibrations.

This may take a few tries, but it'll eventually break free. They always do - you've just gotta be stubborn.

Don't use an impact on the pullers to break it free - most of the pullers on the market are cheap POS that are made in China, and can't take abuse very well.

 

[72bronco]

In addition to a puller you should use a smoke wrench (torch) and Mr. Sledge (BFG). Last time I took off the pitman arm I heated it up, gave it a few wacks with a big hammer, hooked up the puller and it slid right off.

 

[72BlueBronco]

I recently had this problem also. What I did is soaked it in WD and left the puller on it with pressure for a couple of days. Every day I walk by and give it a twist. By the third day I hit it with the BFG and it dropped right off.............Good Luck!

 

[Madgyver]

Will the heat ruin the seal?

I would think so.....

 

[C4]

I just did this.....

1) Soak it.....lubricant, PB's works good.

2) Put a puller on it.......get it Nice & Tight (impact).

3) Torch it.....i used map gas.

4) soak it

5) get it tighter.

5) Torch it........you'll hear a load pop when it pops off. (I still had it attached to my "rod and link assembly" so i wouldn't have to worry about catching it.

p.s. I guess i dont really feel comfortable taking a 10lb hammer to it.............but I"ll bring the HEAT!

 

[Past_Miner]

The secret to using heat on anything concentric is to heat the outside part without heating the inside part. You want the pitman arm to expand from the heat without allowing the PS box output shaft to expand.

Try heating the pitman arm in one spot, straight up and down in the same direction as the splines. Don't get it red hot, just hot enough to heat the part up. Then use the puller and a BFH. This usually works.

 

[TexasBronco]

Ok now how do i go about installing the new drop pitman?

 

[74ranger]

soak the output shaft in wd or similar and wire brush the hell out of it. then start the arm and use the nut to drive it the rest of the way on, if it gets to tight to turn, hammer on the bottom of the arm. oh and make sure to line up the splines. good luck

 

[supermottl]

I was having the same problems trying to get my Non-dropped arm off of my new PS box. On my old box it came off with a little heat and the puller. I tried the same this time, but it wouldn't budge, so I left the puller on there as tight as I could get it. Tonight, I'll go over there and heat it up again. I soaked it in Liquid Wrench. That stuff usually works over time...
Good luck

 

[eBronc]

Thermal coefficient of expansion..

Ok now how do i go about installing the new drop pitman?

This is going to sound a little weird, but it works:

1. Make sure the wife (or girlfriend) is out of the house.
2. Heat up the new pitman arm in your oven for a few minutes until it's nice and toasty.
3. If the steering box is off the truck, put in a big plastic bag and stick in the freezer while the pitman arm is "baking." (Of course, you could just leave it outside - it's going to get pretty damn cold out there in West Texas by tomorrow.)
4. Put on some gloves, grab the pitman arm, run out to the truck, (or take the steering box out of the freezer) and it'll slip right on the steering box splines. Tighten down the nut before the arm cools and the shaft heats up much.
5. Run back inside and open a kitchen window (see #1, below).

You want to make sure your significant other is away while you do this because:

1. It'll make the oven (and the kitchen, and after a while the rest of the house) smell pretty funky.
2. They'll think you're crazy and take every opportunity to tell you so.

 

[supermottl]

my pitman arm still hasn't come off. 1st try was Sunday. I left the puller on there over night all loaded up. Tried again Monday and blasted it with Liquid Wrench (Same as PB Blaster). No Dice. Didn't try last night... Tonight I'll go back and wack at it some more and heat it again.. effing thing...

 

[70_Steve]

Tonight I'll go back and wack at it some more and heat it again.. effing thing...

The method I use when wacking off the pitman arm, or tie-rod ends, etc. is to hold a 5 lb hammer tight against one side, then take out all my aggression on the other side with a 2lb hammer. Usually pops right off just before my arm gives out!!

 

[Mr Joe]

The method I use when wacking off the pitman arm, or tie-rod ends, etc. is to hold a 5 lb hammer tight against one side, then take out all my aggression on the other side with a 2lb hammer. Usually pops right off just before my arm gives out!!

That's similiar to the method I use. I swing both BFH's and hit each side at the same time....

 

[JuanGrande]

I had the same problem when I upgraded my setup to power steering. Basically, as everyone has mentioned so far, it basically requires a BFH(big f hammer) and heat. I used a 3lb sledge hammer, a thick backing plate and a propane torch. I heated up the pitman arm (where it attachs to the tie rod) and then hit it with the sledge and used the steel plate as a backing on the opposite side of where I was hitting. I also left the bolt on the tie-rod so that things would explode all over the place once the pitman are cam loose. I was very nervious about hiting it as hard as I did, but it eventually came off and worked fine. And yes, I did ruin the rubber gasket, but I just went to Napa and bought another.

Jon

 

[Rustytruck]

I dont recomend hammering on a rare obsolete $600.00 power steering box. You guys are nuts (Sorry for the Insult) The shaft on a Bronco box is weak enough let alone the really brittle needle roller bearings. Take the box out with the arm still attached get the thing on a bench or floor and do this whacking. You need to apply alot of pressure with the puller (grease the threads and the end of the puller) and use a sledge hammer on the oppsite side as an anvil and smack the arm with a 4-6 pound hammer. Dont beat on it just smack it really hard if it doesnt pop add more tension with the puller and smack it harder. Dont smack the puller or the shaft. The only pressure you make must be only on the arm. any shock to the shaft or box could be a really expencive mistake that you really dont want to make. Yes the box can be removed with the arm attached I've done it it takes a little finnessing but rotate it just right and you can get it out of its hiding place. If you use a torch on it flip it upside down and use a notched steel plate under the arm to deflect the heat away from the box and what ever you do dont rapidly cool the shaft after you get the arm off. I dont recomend the torch method.

 

[supermottl]

I got it.
time with liquid wrench and the puller applied work. Along with a tap (i do mean tap) with a 5lb hammer to the pitman arm, axially and it popped right off... didn't even need the torch.
I feel good... didn't have to beat the piss out of it

Thanks