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Polishing oxidized original paint ?

magstar67

Contributor
New Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2011
Messages
46
Loc.
Missouri
I recently bought a metalic blue 75 with original paint that is oxidized. Previous owner or someone has polished a few areas that may have gone a little too far in spots. I’ve tested a few spots just hand rubbing some 3M Perfect It EX Machine Polish on it, which glosses it up but not sure how long it will last long term. My hand rubbed areas also don’t match what they did…I suspect they used a machine to do it. I have a lot of experience with base/clear paint but hardly any with single stage and none with single stage this old.

Polishing done prior to my purchase toward left of pic, my light hand polish starts just to right of mirror area over to door handle. Untouched oxidized paint is below body line.
e6e56fd2b71894edb8847ff4c6b7a9ef.jpg

1ad08c02dabd3a6734de4435248b25da.jpg
 

f2502011

Jr. Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2011
Messages
360
I recently bought a metalic blue 75 with original paint that is oxidized. Previous owner or someone has polished a few areas that may have gone a little too far in spots. I’ve tested a few spots just hand rubbing some 3M Perfect It EX Machine Polish on it, which glosses it up but not sure how long it will last long term. My hand rubbed areas also don’t match what they did…I suspect they used a machine to do it. I have a lot of experience with base/clear paint but hardly any with single stage and none with single stage this old.

Polishing done prior to my purchase toward left of pic, my light hand polish starts just to right of mirror area over to door handle. Untouched oxidized paint is below body line.
e6e56fd2b71894edb8847ff4c6b7a9ef.jpg

1ad08c02dabd3a6734de4435248b25da.jpg
Looks good but you’re just burning it off if you continue to polish the finish. Gonna get thinner and thinner until you see primer or bare metal. What effect are you after? Preserved original, trailer queen or somewhere in between? If preserved just clean and clear over it. Otherwise repaint.
 
OP
OP
magstar67

magstar67

Contributor
New Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2011
Messages
46
Loc.
Missouri
Looks good but you’re just burning it off if you continue to polish the finish. Gonna get thinner and thinner until you see primer or bare metal. What effect are you after? Preserved original, trailer queen or somewhere in between? If preserved just clean and clear over it. Otherwise repaint.
I get it’s removing paint which is why I did my part by hand. I want to keep the original paint! I would have left it oxidized and dull except someone had already done a few spots around it before I bought it so I’d just like to get it all generally the same in appearance.
 

fordfan

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 13, 2009
Messages
3,516
Your Bronco looks like it still has a good thickness of paint left in most areas because of the 'orange peel ' that's still evident. You can rub my hand or you can machine polish. If you have experience with buffing clear, buffing this old enamel isn't much different. It is metallic so be very careful on the edges, or just hand rub those areas..

I definitely would not clear coat it as nice as it still looks. Sometimes clear is a good option if the paint is really bad and bare metal is exposed. The problem with clear is that it definitely destroys the original look and it also is an irreversible step without major painting processes if you ever have an issue. Without the clear, it is much easier to touch up and will last longer. With it just buffed and waxed, it will look awesome and you will never have the clear flake, turn loose, bubble, or have is on the trim etc....

These pictures of my '66 U13 "Buttercup" illustrate this. Very little paint work was done, but a lot of cleaning, sanding, and buffing! buttercup 4.7.jpg
 

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Slowleak

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 12, 2013
Messages
3,778
Loc.
Georgia

hyghlndr

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Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 19, 2009
Messages
5,076
Loc.
Hockessin, Delaware
First don't start out buffing, old dried out paint needs treated first. I have done at least 15 original paint cars along these lines with the best results.

Wash with dishwashing soap and clay bar entire care, twice.
Just Meguiars Mirror Glaze M07 Show Car Glaze after dry, put on thick and let sit for a day or two, don't even bother to clean off and redo at least two more times. This adds "wetness" into the paint. Then apply another time to loosen the early dried glazes and hand buff off right after.
Then once all of the surface is clean, use the new car finish liquid, do the full car two or three times.
After this in most cases I simply stop. If needed start with a VERY light buffing wax and the redo the New Car finish.

After trying dozens of ways this consistently does the best job. It also holds real well, then just waterless carwash to keep nice.
 

Slowleak

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 12, 2013
Messages
3,778
Loc.
Georgia
That’s pretty much the same process described in the link I posted. It worked very well on my old C10. The Meguiars soaked right into the dry oxidized paint…
 

chuckji

Contributor
Full Member
Joined
May 5, 2017
Messages
399
Loc.
SE Michigan
If it was me, I would start with a good wash then clay bar. You want to get all the junk and contaminates off it before touching it (machine or by hand) with any polishing or buffing compoun.
 

trailerjack

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 5, 2013
Messages
1,432
Loc.
Central Texas
First don't start out buffing, old dried out paint needs treated first. I have done at least 15 original paint cars along these lines with the best results.

Wash with dishwashing soap and clay bar entire care, twice.
Just Meguiars Mirror Glaze M07 Show Car Glaze after dry, put on thick and let sit for a day or two, don't even bother to clean off and redo at least two more times. This adds "wetness" into the paint. Then apply another time to loosen the early dried glazes and hand buff off right after.
Then once all of the surface is clean, use the new car finish liquid, do the full car two or three times.
After this in most cases I simply stop. If needed start with a VERY light buffing wax and the redo the New Car finish.

After trying dozens of ways this consistently does the best job. It also holds real well, then just waterless carwash to keep nice.

I did this on my caramel Bronze '70 when I had it. It turned out amazing.
 

okorangebrnco

Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 25, 2004
Messages
1,651
Google Mike Phillips- He is the man in the auto/marine detail world. He has a cult following and is world known for his abilities on some of the most priceless cars. You can also YouTube Apex Detail- Brian Spitler is another excellent resource.
 
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