power distribution advice needed

[broncow72]

Alright. I am 95% finished with the outside electrical (engine, lighting and trailer stuff). I am now working on the power distribution and need some ideas. I am running auto reset circuit breakers and relays for pretty much anything that requires heavy load.

What I need is ideas on how to distribute my power requirements over the breakers.

Items to be considered are as follows.

Headlights
dash lights
guages (all electrical)
Run lights
Turn lights
Brake lights
Back up lights
Ignition switch
Radio
Amp. (400 watt)
CB radio
Auxillary power... cig outlet for phones or what not...2
Relay power... needed to actuate relays

Some will be switched and others constant. Give me your best ideas on how to condense these and give any ideas to what might be missing (I know there will be 4 100w off-road lights, but they will be done externally.)

Let the ideas fly guys. I need all imput here.

TIA

 

[ugly74]

power windows maybe and definitely remote door locks are what I'd wanna throw on that list.
as for the rest, I think it would depend on the size of the breakers you're going to use, then do the math on amp loads to figure out how ya wanna split 'em all up.

 

[TBP]

broncow72,

Why the auto reset breakers? I would also use a relay for the switched power breakers to keep the current out of the switch. Emergency flashers should be on the unswitched breakers.

Good luck,

TBP

 

[eb66to77]

Circuit breakers are good but remember that auto-resets will not automatically let you know if there is an issue with the circuit since it will automatically reconnect power when it cools enough.

Relays are good for heavy stuff.

Are you making your own fuse panel?

You can bring power from the battery into the cab with a 6 or 8 gauge wire and then connect from there instead of connecting everything to the positive side of the battery or solenoid.

How about wipers, interior lights, on board air, electric tank switch, fuel pumps?

1. Headlights – own circuit
2. Dash lights, gauges- combined
3. Run lights, backup lights-combined
4. Turn sigs/brake lights-combined (can separate)
5. Ignition- own circuit - connect to battery
6. Radio-own circuit- radio manufacturer recommended fuse size
7. Amp-own circuit- should have internal relay – connect directly to battery
8. Auxiliary power jacks- own circuit- 20 amp main x 2 10 amp
9. Relay power-direct to battery- fused to the next lowest amp rating of connected accessories.

This is how I would do it anyway. I have wired motorcycles up similarly. i like to keep most important things separate.

 

[eb66to77]

Also make sure you are not overloading a wire gauge. There are sites online that will tell you what size wire to use for length, current, and fuse.

 

[broncow72]

Thanks for the ideas.
I'm not running anything smaller than 14 ga.

Ugly... until I figure out how to power soft windows I'll have to hold out.

TBP... I'm using breakers because I hate blade fuses. I never seem to have the one I need. The fewer little things I need to carry in a box the better. I was originally going to use panel mounted resetable breakers but opted for the others for a cleaner dash.
All loads will go through relays not switches. Switches are for activating relays. I have seen too many switches fail with even smaller loads. The things like brake lights will still be switched in the stock manner though. The Items like headlights and wipers will go through sealed toggles and relays.

eb... Thanks alot. What you showed is exactly what I'm looking for. I know my original question is hard to answer with the limited info.

1. Headlights – own circuit Planned
2. Dash lights, gauges- combined planned, adding relay power
3. Run lights, backup lights-combined good idea. Was thinking of running #'s 3 &4 on one, any reason not to? This might be obvious but I'll ask anyhow.
4. Turn sigs/brake lights-combined (can separate) good idea
5. Ignition- own circuit - connect to battery MSD, Planned
6. Radio-own circuit- radio manufacturer recommended fuse size Will do
7. Amp-own circuit- should have internal relay – connect directly to battery Planned, has built in fuse
8. Auxiliary power jacks- own circuit- 20 amp main x 2 10 amp Planned
9. Relay power-direct to battery- fused to the next lowest amp rating of connected accessories. See #2

 

[eb66to77]

Thanks for the ideas.
I'm not running anything smaller than 14 ga.

Ugly... until I figure out how to power soft windows I'll have to hold out.

TBP... I'm using breakers because I hate blade fuses. I never seem to have the one I need. The fewer little things I need to carry in a box the better. I was originally going to use panel mounted resetable breakers but opted for the others for a cleaner dash.
All loads will go through relays not switches. Switches are for activating relays. I have seen too many switches fail with even smaller loads. The things like brake lights will still be switched in the stock manner though. The Items like headlights and wipers will go through sealed toggles and relays.

eb... Thanks alot. What you showed is exactly what I'm looking for. I know my original question is hard to answer with the limited info.

1. Headlights – own circuit Planned
2. Dash lights, gauges- combined planned, adding relay power
3. Run lights, backup lights-combined good idea. Was thinking of running #'s 3 &4 on one, any reason not to? This might be obvious but I'll ask anyhow.
4. Turn sigs/brake lights-combined (can separate) good idea
5. Ignition- own circuit - connect to battery MSD, Planned
6. Radio-own circuit- radio manufacturer recommended fuse size Will do
7. Amp-own circuit- should have internal relay – connect directly to battery Planned, has built in fuse
8. Auxiliary power jacks- own circuit- 20 amp main x 2 10 amp Planned
9. Relay power-direct to battery- fused to the next lowest amp rating of connected accessories. See #2

Running the parking and backup lights separate from Turn signals and brake lights will keep on from messing with the other. If the marker lights short the circuit you still have brake lights and hazards.

As for ignition, I was talking about the keyed switch power. The actual ignition will be activated by the switch and receive power from the solenoid and alternator.

This is a good plan. I am interested to see it completed. I have seen a lot of people talking about making their own harnesses to suit their specific needs. I got the Centech due to limited engineering time, but wish I went fully custom now. Good luck man!

 

[broncow72]

got some work done today

I had a good day today. May not have made any money with my business but had the whole day with nobody home;D .
Got the dash floor panel mounted (3/16 aluminum) with amp, ignition box, main breaker, ground bar and noise filter mounted with countersunk, tapered screws going upward through the dash floor (NOTHING to snag pants or skin). Wired all the "through-the-firewall" wires into the bulkhead adapter. All breakers and relays are mounted, so I even tied in some of the relay and connector wiring.

I'll try to get some pics up tomorrow.

 

[RRRAAAYYY2]

Autoreset breakers will tell you igf you have an issue. If they pop the load that caused them to pop has to be removed before they will reset. i.e. if your amp pops its breaker it stays popped until you shut the amp off. So you will know that there has been an issue.

Here is a link to our chart for wire sizing: http://www.svapowerproducts.com/html/wire_chart_colored.html

 

[TBP]

Ray,

What you are describing sounds like a non-cycling relay. My understanding is that automatic reset relays will reconnect the load after a given period of time. Probably determined by the heating of a bimetallic strip.

TBP

 

[broncow72]

Alright here's what I got done last night.

 

[trailpsycho]

Broncow72-

I seem to remember that you picked up a driveshaft from DSSS. How did it workout? I remember you briefly had some issues..?.?.? You can PM me if there is some soiled shorts or other dirty laundry. Looking at my high angle driveline needs for the front DS and they seem to have a 40 deg DS with longer splines at a reasonable price...looking for feedback and remember that you posted on them a while back, but hadnt installed. Sorry to hi-jack. Thanks.

John

Oh yeah, wiring looks good. I went with a Centech and a FMS EFI harness, with special attention and advice from Lars...powers up, fuel pump cycles (very exciting)....need to turn it one more click once I get the fuel system and the oil primed. I didnt have the huevos to wire it all from scratch like you. I think, knowing what I know now, I would try the RF harness....but the Centech is pretty good.

 

[eb66to77]

Alright here's what I got done last night.

Hell yeah man. Very nice and organized! Good job!

 

[broncow72]

Alright. I got the relays and breakers wired...

Now I just need to do something with this mess.