Problem During Engine Break In - Help Needed - Pics and Videos

[73azbronco]

Yeah, but did they fit edelbrock head? I'd call edelbrock tell them you have studs pulled. From damage to rocker looks like rocker pulled the stud out, and not that the stud was put in wrong. I would see what edelbrock can do for you, and then use edelbrock rockers on their heads.

Yes, you need an honest to goodness pushrod length checker. I forget which one is closest to a stock 302/5.0 but call summit they can set you up. BTW when I went edelbrock heads, every stock pushrod was wrong.

If I were you, good job so far, but get rockers, pushrods, made for your heads.

That pulled out stud, going to need a machine shop if edelbrock doesnt send you a new one. Seeing damage on rocker, they will probably decline to help. I would wager the rest of the studs have been pulled to some extent. Find a good machine shop and they can help.

Personally, those little aluminum shavings shouldn't do much if any damage to cam so i would leave it. You can get a flashlight and slowly rotate motor around to get eyes on the cam surface.

 

[CabinCruiser]

That pulled out stud, going to need a machine shop if edelbrock doesnt send you a new one. Seeing damage on rocker, they will probably decline to help. I would wager the rest of the studs have been pulled to some extent. Find a good machine shop and they can help.

Thanks very much for the help,
What will the machine shop be needed for? it didn't look to me like the threads were pulled out with the stud.....

 

[Madgyver]

Thanks very much for the help,
What will the machine shop be needed for? it didn't look to me like the threads were pulled out with the stud.....

Did it back out on its own? From the pics you posted, I don't see any threads in the hole. Looks pressed in. You have them in front of you and say the threads didn't pull out. I just see the pics you posted. If threads are there, check thread engagement. if good, torque them down with red locktite. get a die grinder and clearance you rockers and/or tighten them down per torque requirements and position hex corners away from rocker bottom from hitting them.

 

[CabinCruiser]

Did it back out on its own? From the pics you posted, I don't see any threads in the hole. Looks pressed in. You have them in front of you and say the threads didn't pull out. I just see the pics you posted. If threads are there, check thread engagement. if good, torque them down with red locktite. get a die grinder and clearance you rockers and/or tighten them down per torque requirements and position hex corners away from rocker bottom from hitting them.

I follow you....just double checking that the machine shop wasn't needed for anything beyond thread clean up.......yes it backed itself out....threads seem fine,

 

[Viperwolf1]

Looks to me like the pushrods were too short, causing the bottom of the rockers to rub on the hex of the studs, which loosened the studs.

 

[73azbronco]

Ok threaded then, yeah it looked like unthreaded to me which I thought odd for edelbrock. I'd put em back in and torque with at least blue Loctite.

 

[73azbronco]

Looks to me like the pushrods were too short, causing the bottom of the rockers to rub on the hex of the studs, which loosened the studs.

Same thats why I really think he needs a checker, and since mine is a close duplicate, I needed longer rods.

 

[ba123]

Did you have lifter retainers in there?

One thing about the sound of the engine…no problem, but sounded like it was all air and it was…you need a filter to restrict the air flow, but that isn’t your main problem,

And you’re sure everything was torqued properly with a torque wrench that’s accurate?

 

[CabinCruiser]

Did you have lifter retainers in there?

One thing about the sound of the engine…no problem, but sounded like it was all air and it was…you need a filter to restrict the air flow, but that isn’t your main problem,

And you’re sure everything was torqued properly with a torque wrench that’s accurate?

No lifter retainers....I thought those were only for roller lifters.
Torque specs and proper sequence were checked and double checked....I used a click-type torque wrench which I have personally never tested, but it came with a little slip of paper with someone's initials on it indicating that it had been tested before being shipped from the factory.....who knows...
I did not, however, torque those studs. They were installed in the head by the factory and there was no instruction to do so. Someone did mention that they may not have been torqued by the factory so maybe I should have double checked.

 

[CabinCruiser]

Same thats why I really think he needs a checker, and since mine is a close duplicate, I needed longer rods.

I looked back through all of my receipts....I actually didn't buy those push rods because they were recommended for the kit....they came as part of the kit. Not saying they must be correct...but it does add to my frustration knowing that they might be wrong.
I thought I was saving myself some frustration by ordering a kit to make sure everything would be correct and I would minimize the chance of me combining parts that would result in incorrect geometry....lesson learned.

I appreciate the help.
I think I have a path forward now. I'll update when I get things running again.

 

[CabinCruiser]

Update
Cleaned up the rocker arms with a file. Changed the oil. Got the push rod length checker. Ordered proper push rods (several thou longer). Everything seems to be running well.
Thanks everyone for the help.

 

[73azbronco]

Nice!!

 

[pcf_mark]

You have to be the most meticulous, conscientious and curious first time engine builder I have seen. Things looks really good but I am curious if the oil pressure is solid? Not below 20-25 psi at idle and picks up 10 psi per 1000 rpm?

On the head stud - those are under very high tension load you want to fix it right. If you can put sealer on the threads and torque it up it should hold but I think it is past that. My keyboard assessment is the head was put together right and rockers are decent enough quality. However the studs on the head have a larger hex for strength and when the rocker was adjusted it came into contact with the hex. That chewed up the rockers but also put a huge strain stud which is hopefully why it gave up.

Any decent machine shop can Heil-coil the head stud(s) as needed and since you have the intake off you may be able to do it yourself on the engine. Then grind each rocker bottom area for clearance then rinse them very well in solvent and blow them out so no grit eats up the roller tip or trunnions.

Before doing any other machine work I would check very carefully for any other clearance using a paper clip with the valve at full lift. Is the bottom of the spring retainer too close to the valve seal or guide? Do the spring coils bind or get very close? Usually when a stud pulls it was forced out but I am hoping the rocker did it. Fit the paper clip in between any moving parts - retainer, guide, rocker, spring, pushrod hole etc.

 

[73azbronco]

or a feeler gauge... although, paper clip, thats some old school right there. Let me get my book of matches and square off the points, to raise you one.