Project Duece Wagon - Explorer EFI Install

[EBGeek]

After 2 previous EB’s and living with the regret of selling them both, it’s been my intent for a while to find another that I could ‘make my own’ since I hadn’t put a lot of my own work in either of my other two. I’m not sure that I knew what I was asking for, since this project went from a ‘get it on the road as quickly as possible’ to a 1yr+ redo (due to a chronic case of the “while-I’m-at-it’s”).

Short back story – had approached a guy in my town that is a bit of a ‘bronco hoarder’ and he’d never seemed really interested in selling this one. After a random stop at his house one Sunday afternoon, he relented and we agreed on a price. Since the bronco I was purchasing didn’t have an engine/tranny/transfer case, he agreed to let me remove a set from another bronco that is quite literally melting back into the earth (really sad).

Its my hope that documenting my process here (especially the engine swap) that others can use it as a reference and not make the process too daunting. I've tried to include the part #'s where possible.

Table of Contents

• Pickup
• Teardown
• Chassis RustSeal
• Floor pans
• Body lift
• Wiring harness / dash redo
• Bed liner
• Transmission rebuild (kickdown lever issue)
• Suspension lift
• Seat recovering
• Brakes / bearings
• Engine

OBDII vs OBDI vs Carb​

Teardown​

Harness rebuild​

PCM install (heater cable fit)​

Engine wiring / alternator​

Intertia Switch​

Check Engine Light​

Heater hoses​

Oil filter fitting​

Drilling/tapping intake​

Power steering​

Radiator​

Serpentine belt​

Dipstick bracket​

Starter​

Throttle/Kickdown Cables​

Fuel Lines​

Fuel Pump ​

Pickup

Never underestimate the amount of work it takes to trailer a vehicle that’s unable to drive itself onto the trailer and also has no brakes with which to stop itself. It’s a miracle we made it home with it in one piece.

The donor engine

Teardown

Looking back now, it would’ve made a lot more sense to have pulled the body off the frame, but as mentioned earlier, it was never my intent to do a ‘frame off restore’.

I don’t have a ton of pictures of this part, but suffice it to say it was nasty work. I never realized how much accumulates on one of these rigs over 40+ years. The more I removed, the more I found I had to remove…and so on and so on.

Thankfully I was pretty pleased with the relatively small amount of rust through. There were some spots that will need addressing, but most of them were body-related and I’m not tackling the body work for now, that’s Phase 2 (tentatively scheduled for 2020 or so).

The day we parked it in the shop

RustSeal

I began stripping the frame with a wire stripper (on a 4” grinder), and as you can imagine a few hour project ended up being a few weekends worth of work. My intent with the RustSeal was to simply keep rust at bay, not to be any kind of show car shine. However, the while-I’m-at-its kicked in and the more I stripped, the more I had to strip. I ended up going with the full 3-step KBS process (Clean/Convert Rust/Seal).
One lesson learned here is on the spray versus brush application. This part happened to fall in the dead of winter, so I wasn’t able to spray outside due to temp and I didn’t feel like painting the shop black with the doors closed, so I opted for the brush method. Looking back, that was another huge mistake. I should’ve put the frame painting off until warmer weather, since painting with a brush on my back for 14 hours or so was less than ideal.

Second lesson learned here – RustSeal is quite literally impermeable once its set up, meaning NOTHING will remove it (except physical grinding/scraping). I heard that and thought; acetone/stripper will cut anything, right? Well, after painting my rig with a brush (using gloves that this miracle concoction somehow was able to penetrate), I discovered my hands were covered in the stuff (not to mention the amount all over my face). When I got home, I quickly realized it had also somehow penetrated my shirt and was all over my torso. Of course, the only place I was really concerned about was my face and as you can imagine, it didn’t come off…at all. I scrubbed to the point my face was nearly bleeding and I still looked like I had been splatter painted with black all over. My fingernails looked like they had been painted with black fingernail polish, and yet nothing would remove it. I ended up taking a Dremel tool with a sanding wheel to my nails (not pleasant in the least) just to reduce the amount of black and had to explain to a lot of folks for the next few weeks why I was speckled black.

In review – wear lots and lots of protection with any of the chassis sealers and spray if at all possible.

Floor pans

Floor pan replacement was pretty straightforward, though a significant amount of work. The air chisel was priceless for busting through the welds, though I’ve read some folks prefer the spot weld drill bit.

Body lift

I opted to hold off on the body lift until I had the floor pans welded into place, though not sure if it was necessary or not. I don’t have any pictures off the body lift/bushing replacement, but no suprises here except the obligatory rusted bushings that had to be sawzall’d free. I also read the warnings here on CB.com to not drop the sleeve into the frame rail. But for some reason my brain wasn’t working that day and I proceeded to drop a sleeve into the frame, requiring a 1 hour detour of work to retrieve it. #puttapeovertheframefirst

Firewall / Wiring harness / dash redo

Dash / Firewall insulation

I opted for a prefab insulation pad for the firewall and cleaned up the dash while I had it removed.

Gauge cluster cleanup

I disassembled and cleaned up the gauge cluster. The only thing I painted were the needles and the trim piece around the glass.

Wiring Harness

I bought the Centech harness and had no issues at all with installation. All the wires were labeled every few inches, so there was never a question about what went where. Wiring harness was a lot of work, but well worth it considering the rat’s nest of wires from PO, complete with fire damage where wires had caught fire and burned up left totally bare. No pictures of install, but other shots will show it completed.

Bed liner

After using roll-on bed liner on a previous Bronco, I decided to use spray-on Raptor liner on this one and couldn’t have been happier. Prep work took a lot longer, as you have to protect from overspray, but the consistency of the spray vs roll-on was well worth it. I ended up buying (2) kits for a total of (8) bottles, but only ended up using (6) of them. Six bottles gave me a good heavy coat from the firewall all the way to my tailgate.

Initially, it was my intent to use the other two bottles for spraying my engine bay. But after some thought, I opted for just black rattle can paint instead.

Transmission rebuild

I debated about performing my C4 rebuild myself; since I wasn’t sure the shape mine was in. But after a fellow CB’er raved about the Bad Shoe DVD and how it helped him rebuild his, I opted for a self-rebuild.
Apart from the valve body teardown, it wasn’t too intimidating. I set up a tablet on my pegboard to play the DVD, and away I went.

Part’s ordered from bulkpart.com:
26006C Master kit, C-4 1970-81 combo kit
B26022 Band C4 / C5 Intermediate
N26024 Band C-4 / C-5 rear low / reverse
26064 Bushing C4 / C5 case
26160G Modulator: C4 / C5 GREEN stripe Push-in
A26912 Piston, Rear servo, C4 / C5
A26654K Sprag kit, C4 / C5 Spring & roller kit
26200C Thrust washer kit, C4 / C5, 1970-86
T26165F TransGo Shift Kits C4 / C5 73-86
26126X Steel, C4, OVERSIZED, Forward / Direct
26034 Bushing C4 / C5 pump (BABBIT)
26046A Bushing C4 / C5 Direct drum 70-86
A26010D Filter, C4 Bronco 4wd 1973-77

One noob gotcha that I’ll share for those taking on the project, make sure your properly orient your kickdown lever BEFORE snugging up the valve body. You can verify its correct placement by making sure it springs back when pressed. If it doesn’t spring back into place, take off the valve body and make it right. I didn’t realize I had mine on wrong until the tranny was in the chassis, and working upside down with the valve body over my head was an exercise in total frustration.

Suspension lift

Suspension lift was purchased from Wild Horses and I opted for the 2.5 kit with Rancho XL9000s (although I now wish I hadn’t allowed the salesman to talk me out of the Bilsteins, they seem to have glowing reviews from most who install them).

No real surprises here, just a lot of knuckle-busting work. One thing I’d suggest is lubing up your suspension bushings (especially C-bushings) with some high quality silicon lubricant to help things slide together easier. Don’t use standard petroleum-based gear grease or similar. Supposedly those will break down the new poly bushings they manufacture these days.

Brakes / bearings

Due to my ever-expanding ‘to-do’ list, I opted to put off the disk brake conversion until after I got it road-worthy. Cost for reworking the front drums were minuscule compared with the $1000+ of a conversion kit (and I didn’t want to skimp on the conversion kit). With that, I set to replacing everything brake related; from lines, shoes, wheel cylinders, master cylinder, hardware, etc. After I got the rear axles out, I also discovered my wheel bearings were shot, so those got replaced as well.

Protip – get yourself a wheel bearing driver before attempting to pull your hubs for front brake work. I don’t have the part # handy, but I picked mine up at a local parts store for around $20. It’ll come in handy when it’s time for the disk brake conversion.

 

[EBGeek]

Engine

This section is going to get lengthy, but its where a lot has happened with my build. First, the backstory.
I was given an old engine as part of my sale, and I wasn’t sure if I was going to make use of it or not. But the more I tore into it, the more disgusted I became. The engine apparently lived the bulk of its life in the Northeast, either that or it spent a decade in a salt bath, since even the block was so rusted that chunks were falling off. With that, I was left with either a long block purchase or taking the EFI plunge with an Explorer engine.

As any geek would, I built a spreadsheet comparing the cost vs complexity of the two options, and in my case, the Explorer engine was a clear winner (especially since I was going to have to purchase nearly all peripherals since mine were all rusted beyond repair). Granted at the time, I didn’t understand what I was getting into, but I figured if I was going to do, I might as well do it right the first time even if it set my project back a while (and boy did it).

I’m not going to get into the differences between all the model years of Explorers, since I can’t speak to that without some help and there are a lot of variables. If someone would like to provide me the information, I’ll be glad to edit this post and add it here.

In my case, I opted for a pre-mid ’97 so I would have the non-P heads. The P-heads have spark plugs that enter the head at a straight angle, so plug clearance for both manifolds and headers can be a factor. The GT40 heads should have 3 bars marking the front of the head, with the GT40P heads having four. But a quick glance at whether the spark plugs are straight vs angled is the quickest way to tell.

After quite a bit of calling around, I was able to find an engine in decent shape in a nearby junkyard. I bought it with all accessories, so I wouldn’t have to part all those out individually.

OBDII vs OBDI vs Carb

Once I had my block, it was time to figure out how I was going to run it. There are some who’ve converted an Explorer engine to run with a stock intake and a carb, while a great many others have opted for the ‘mustang’ setup of a HEI Distributor and a mustang harness/PCM. For me, having to purchase the Mustang PCM (which are getting very tough to come by, and pricey as a result) plus the added cost of the pre-built engine harness ($500) and the distributor, was going to be more than just having EFIGuy / Garry build me an OBDII harness/PCM to use everything just as if it were running in an Explorer. I know there are tons of opinions on this, I just wanted to provide my perspective on why I went the way I did, in case it helps clear up the process for someone else.

In retrospect, it might’ve been a wash either way, but I’m happy with the fact that its less of a Frankenstein and more of a stock 1996 Ford Explorer when it comes to sourcing parts.

Engine Teardown

The old

The new

Stripped

Painted

Going in

End Result

Harness Rebuild (EFIGuy)

After consulting EFIGuy (Garry), I decided on having him rework my harness and preprogram my PCM. I don’t have any after pictures of the harness, but I can tell you it was super easy to install. He labeled every plug and it was simply a matter of laying it on the engine and plugging it in (along with a couple connections to the vehicle harness / 12v source).

PCM install

I opted to install the computer box inset in the firewall behind the engine. It did cause a tight fit for the heater cables and defrost duct, but a little convincing got everything in place.

Engine wiring / alternator

With the 4G alternator, it requires a wiring arrangement quite different from stock. In my particular scenario, the white (Centech) wire is unused and the green (Reg) wire is run to the I-Term on the 4G alternator (green/red wire).

In the below picture, you can also see I ran my alternator (4ga) wire through a 175amp mega fuse, to protect against a possible alternator failure. As an added bonus, the extra battery terminals also give me places to hook up other 12v battery leads (such as for EFI relays/harness/etc).

Here is a diagram of the typical 4G wiring, although if you’re going to run a PGMR (mini) starter, your starter lead will come off the battery side of the solenoid/fuse, and a 12v switched lead will come off the right side of the solenoid to activate the starter.

Here is a picture of my EFI relays mounted on my passenger side firewall, prior to getting battery lead installed.

Inertia Switch

Sourcing an intertia switch was one of the things I needed to complete my engine harness, and I opted for pulling from a Bronco II, as they’re easily accessible at the front of the passenger floorboard, where it meets the firewall. I placed it on the driver side kick panel out of the way of the emergency brake.

Check Engine light

I sourced the following check engine light from Ebay, although any 12v light will work. Set me back a whole $5.50 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/141185251951?item=141185251951&viewitem=&vxp=mtr).

Heater hoses

I first tried to take the cheap route and install bulk heater hoses on the heater core at the firewall. I ended up buying some 90deg hoses at the parts store (just eyeballed them and didn’t save the part #’s) and couldn’t be happier with how they came out. The bulk hose was kinked in a couple of places, but the formed hoses fit perfectly and make a nice turn up to the heater connections on the back of the intake. Its far too crammed in there to get a good picture.

Oil filter fitting

Due to removing the stock oil cooler, I ordered an SBF108 from Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GW9N51E?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00) for about $10 to allow me to mount an oil filter to the block. The existing fitting in the block was in there very tight, but using a large allen wrench that fit the inside of the fitting, allowed me to wrench it right out.

Drilling/tapping intake

Due to my engine having an internal EGR, it was suggested that I plug it to keep hot exhaust gas from entering my plenum. I ordered a ½-14 tap and a ½” NPT stainless steel plug (from Amazon) and the process was quite simple. I stuffed a paper towel with gear dope on it into the lower intake and went to work with the tap.

Power steering

Tank relocation – due to how high the tank sits above the engine, I had to fabricate a simple L-bracket that moved the (3) mounting holes down and to the rear about an inch (that still allows hose to clear bracket.
Pressure hose – like many others here, I opted (for now) to use the Explorer power steering pump which uses a special pressure fitting on the top of the unit. I took my stock hose (that I had bent like I wanted it) along with the cut-off end for the pump side of the Explorer hose to a local hose shop. $40 got me a brand new hose with the existing Explorer fitting in place.

Radiator

I purchased a Champion radiator (CC522), along with the 4-core supports (#10610) from JBG. I went with the driver’s side inlet, as I didn’t want to have to fabricate a crossover pipe in my configuration, but as with everything here, it’s all personal preference.

Radiator went in like a breeze. I did have to use the die grinder on the top mounting flange to help the brackets seat fully. And the driver’s side lower hose is pretty tight against the stock power steering box, but it went in ok. I understand that if you’re running a 4x4x2 conversion box, that the Champion may not fit your application.

Regarding radiator hoses, unfortunately I didn’t write down the part #’s of the hoses I used. As with the heater hoses, I just asked to walk the hose aisle at the parts store and found both a lower and an upper that could be cut to fit.

Serpentine belt

I removed the air compressor, so I had to use a different serp belt. Gates part # K060825 was ordered from Amazon and worked perfectly.

Dipstick Bracket

It turns out that the stock Explorer dipstick (block mounted, not pan mounted), doesn’t work so good when you install Bronco manifolds. The good news is that its pretty pliable and I was able to bend it around my spark plug and run it up between the manifold and the block. However, doing so removed any ability to mount it in a stock-like manner. I was able to bend an L-bracket that I was able to put on a stud mount in the manifold. I then bolted the dipstick to the L-bracket for a solid mount. I can get pictures if anyone is interested.

Starter

I opted for the smaller, more powerful, and supposedly more reliable mini starter. I ordered mine from JBG, but most all of the vendors sell them. The wiring is a little different from stock. See this diagram from TBP for details: http://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/page.../09/early-bronco-high-torque-mini-starter.gif

Throttle Cable / Kickdown Cable

I ordered my throttle/kickdown cables from BCBroncos (part #’s 11-81020 / 11-81011 respectively). Although the instructions were a little sketchy, and working with the stainless steel lines is a PITA, they ended up working ok.

The throttle cable didn’t include directions for mounting the plate to my Explorer-type throttle. Turns out the same kit is used with a different set of instructions, which after I had those, I was able to get it hooked up without issue or modification.

The kickdown cable had only one flaw – the tranny end was already hooked up with the nuts/washers and no way to remove them without completely pulling out the entire inner wire and feeding it back through. Thankfully it wasn’t that hard to do with the cable laid out straight, but it seemed a little frustrating at the time (as they could’ve just simply added the bracket to the assembly at the time and it would’ve avoided this step).

Fuel Lines

I ordered a set of hard lines from BCBroncos (part # 11-60334), as it was my hope to avoid the hassle of bending fuel lines. Well, as we all know, nothing is truly bolt-in and I ended up having to bend the lines quite a bit to work around my transmission crossmember mount. In the end, I think I would’ve rather just went with bulk hard lines, but they worked out with some modifications.

Fuel line fittings – I also purchased spring lock connectors (part #’s 11-80011 – high pressure, 11-80012 – return line) from BCBroncos. I’d like to vent about something regarding the spring locks/fuel lines from BCBroncos. The high pressure line in the fuel line kit is 3/8”, yet the high pressure spring lock fitting is 5/16”. I opted to just find a 5/16” barbed fitting at the parts store that would screw into the 3/8” hard line at the firewall. A small annoyance, but it seems like a the kits should be designed to work with each other.

Fuel Pump

I didn’t spend the $700 for the EFI fuel tank, but opted (temporarily) for a fuel pump mounted outside the stock fuel tank. I purchased an Airtex E8445, although I’ve read some have had questionable reliability with them. Eventually, I’ll swap out the entire tank/pump assembly for the 23gal EFI tank.

*Updated fuel pump part # - see topic: http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=264235

 

[EBGeek]

Pictures fixed.

 

[Lon L]

Very nice write up and great job on the Bronco.

 

[sykanr0ng]

If you're using a 23 gallon tank why not cut a hole in the top and use an Explorer fuel pump?

Cost a lot less than $700 if you DIY.

 

[JSmall]

Nice looking build

 

[EBGeek]

Sykanr0ng, I'm still running the stock 13gal tank for now. I'm gonna be lucky to make it between gas stations until I can get a 23gal installed.

 

[EFI Guy]

Nice Job!

 

[surfer-b]

Very nice job, great write-up.

 

[Toddpole]

Great job on the build and write up! Thanks for the effort.

 

[sprdv1]

Nice project there. Keep up the good work

 

[Tasty Geezer]

Time to start enjoying driving it now!!!

 

[SSDDBRONCO]

Damn I have to give you props for such a great write up!!

 

[EBGeek]

I'm still waiting on my tires to arrive, but I got antsy and took her on her maiden voyage this weekend on my dry rotted stock tires. I still have a list of items to complete, but I was super excited to have her on the road, even if for just a few minutes. More than anything, I was elated that my homebuilt transmission rebuild seems to be a success...it shifted like a champ. I was probably grinning from ear to ear the entire time.

It might behave a little differently with my 33" tires, but this Explorer engine has some serious oomph. I'm not sure of the power difference between this and a stock engine (since its been a long time since I've driven one) but this engine has some serious pull to it...

I'll get a longer video of it running and post it here.

 

[ep67bro]

Great write up, If I go this way it will be a great reference!

 

[ren71]

Great job and very helpful with the part numbers.

 

[sykanr0ng]

Thanks for the part numbers and links.

I ordered a CEL from that eBay seller.

WOW! 27 minutes later they shipped it

 

[EBGeek]

Cool, glad the part #'s helped. I really like the CEL mounted in the dash, it looks really clean and 'factory'.

 

[EBGeek]

Picture of the CEL mounted, for anyone interested;

 

[TTTGOWYO]

Great job and thanks for a lot of good info. I will be watching for more! Thanks.