Project Furwagon - bout to cross the finish line

[Baja71]

-PM sent-

 

[Nightstick]

I don't wanna jinx myself, but all signs indicate that my bike will be sold tomorrow. I had it on cycletrader for a month and got no responses, but a guy I work with was interested so he's gonna take it off my hands. It was actually a blessing in disguise that it took so long because my plans have changed a hundred times. What really changed my mind was simply the cost. I figured out about 80% of what I wanted/needed and ran the bill up to almost $20,000. While I'm sure I'll eventually have that kind of money into it, it's not necessary right now so I dumbed down the plans (mostly the engine). I'm sure the UPS/FedEx guys are gonna hate me in the next few weeks/months. Here's the plan

Engine
I acquired a 351W and NP435 for $550. The engine supposedly runs but I'm going to rebuild it a swap the cam. As far as the tranny goes it's a 31 spline so I'm gonna sell it and pick up a 28 spline or ZF. I had planned on building a 393 stroker but the cost would have used up half the money I'm getting for the bike. It seemed smarter to rebuild the 351 and add EFI for $2500 rather than spending $6000+ for a carbed 393. I can always build it bigger later. I'm stickin with the D20 for now, probably upgrade to an ATLAS II depending on how the D20 acts.

Suspension/F&R ends
Gonna go with a 4.5" WH system 7 or 10 SL accompanied by a 1" body lift. People seem to have a fairy easy time making their own radius arms so I figure I'll do the same and save a few bucks. 4.88 gears front and rear with ARB Air Lockers. I'm still undecided here, I like the air lockers because of the on street driveability factor. I'd say the rig will probably get 50/50 on/off road usage. A buddy told me to go detroit rear, lunchbox front. I've never driven a vehicle with lockers. but I've heard/read that it's kind of a pain. Any suggestions are welcome. The death wobble thread made me decide to reinforce my trac bar while I'm at it too. 36" tires, front disc brakes, power steering, hydroboost.

Cosmetics
Not too much money being spent here. I have fairly minimal rust so I'm gonna take care of that myself. Rock skis will be bought, bumpers and roll cage will be built by me and a buddy. I really want the Corbaeu Moab seats but depending on how the budget is going I might settle for some junkyard seats at first. Me and another buddy will be sanding, priming, and painting everything. Not gonna have the prettiest paint job but the rocks and mud don't care.

The goal is to have something driveable/wheelable (if thats a word) in less than a year. Depending on time I'm thinking closer to six months. Obviously I left out other items like the radiator, gas tank, etc, but this is getting kinda lengthy so I figured i'd stop typing.

I can't say enough how great this site is. I've spent countless hours here researching parts, ideas, and so on. Probably more time than it will take to get the rig rollin. Thanks for your help so far and in the future, and as always feel free to crtique my plans

 

[duder]

I think you've made some really good choices (very similar to mine: 351W stroked, ZF and NP 205, front disc, hydroboost).

You'll probably want to go with a NP205 versus the Dana 20. NP205 is a better transfer case and it mates right up to the ZF (with slight mod). No expensive adapter needed.

Have fun with it!

 

[Nightstick]

You'll probably want to go with a NP205 versus the Dana 20. NP205 is a better transfer case and it mates right up to the ZF (with slight mod). No expensive adapter needed.

I didn't know that. One of the main reasons I was gonna "settle" for the NP435 is the cost of the ZF adapter. I'll look into it thanks!!!

 

[rjp1965]

I didn't know that. One of the main reasons I was gonna "settle" for the NP435 is the cost of the ZF adapter. I'll look into it thanks!!!

I have changed to the NP205 on my project too. It has a reputation of being a bullet proof transfer case. I am also swapping to an AOD (4r70w internals). The NP205 bolts up to the AOD adapter also and means you don't have to fork over the bucks for an AA adapter.

NP205's are easy to find, cheap to buy, simple and cheap to rebuild and parts are easy to find. Hard to go wrong.

FYI

 

[Hank_]

I had the Corbeau Moab seats and hated them. They offered very little support and were like riding on a board. I purchased a set of Corbeau Baja RS seats and they were very comfortable and had great support, especially for off-roading.

Henry

 

[Nightstick]

Found a guy selling a married NP205 from a 77 F250 w/ auto tranny for $100. Will this work or do I need one from a manual tranny?

He also has a "disc brake setup" from the same vehicle for $150. I'm assuming since the 78-79 FSB setup is a good donor this will be too, yes or no?

I had the Corbeau Moab seats and hated them. They offered very little support and were like riding on a board. I purchased a set of Corbeau Baja RS seats and they were very comfortable and had great support, especially for off-roading.

Henry

Good to know thanks...

I have a question about the engine rebuild. The two items below are what I'm looking at. I'm pretty confident the rebuild kit will work but my question is about the cam. According to an article I read the advertised duration is in line with what an RV cam should be but not the lift. Also, am I going to have to change anything in the heads to go to a hydraulic flat tappet cam?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SLP-CS-1158R/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEM-MHP176-300/

 

[mavereq]

i wouldn't invest in a rebuild kit until you make sure your engine hasn't already been bored. if it's already .030 over and has a ring ridge then those pistons won't work.

 

[JRED]

I wish I never ripped mine down to the frame. I could have had a nice peice that I fixed up while still enjoying driving it. Almost everything can be replaced with the body still on. In my opinion there is no reason to do a frame off for what you want.

 

[Nightstick]

I wish I never ripped mine down to the frame. I could have had a nice peice that I fixed up while still enjoying driving it. Almost everything can be replaced with the body still on. In my opinion there is no reason to do a frame off for what you want.

I think you're probably right. My reason for wanting to remove the body is for ease of installation for some of the parts such as drivetrain components, cleaning (there's still built-up mud on the underside) and to apply rust inhibitor to the underside of the body and frame. It will also make it easier to drop the front and rear ends for rebuild and install of the suspension lift. Basically all I'll be doing is yankin the body, putting it aside for the above tasks, then putting it back on when that's done. It's not driveable at the moment anyway.

 

[Nightstick]

You'll probably want to go with a NP205 versus the Dana 20. NP205 is a better transfer case and it mates right up to the ZF (with slight mod). No expensive adapter needed.

Have fun with it!

I have a rebuilt ZF being delivered Thursday.;D When I was talking to the guy on the phone he said the 205 won't mate up with the ZF. I hadnt read this post in a while, what is the mod I need to make it work?

I should be dropping the block and crank off at the machine shop tomorrow!;D

He also offered a rebuilt 205 for $600 but that seemed a little pricey.

 

[Nightstick]

Does anyone have a checklist of things to remove/disconnect before pulling the body off? I wanna make sure I don't forget something and break it

 

[Baja71]

No list, but it's nothing to worry about. Give it a good once over, then as you crank off the body, take another look around to make sure nothing's hanging. I did it by myself without issue.

 

[Nightstick]

Well I'll give an update of sorts... I've been extremely busy doing other projects and therefore haven't had much time to work on the rig. I was finally done building deer feeders a week ago, then i was asked to build four more. Good because I make a little money off them, but they each take a full day to build so there's four more days the bronco gets no QT. I have tinkered here and there and I'm slowly aquiring parts. I'm hoping to be ready for the LEBC roundup next year.

Here's what I've accomplished so far (short list)

- An engine shop has had my 351 for three weeks. I visited him today and it looks like it should be done in a few days. When I get it back from him, I'll buy the explorer motor to get the serp system, EFI components, and heads.
- The ZF was delivered yesterday. I was supposed to get an NP205 from the same people but they couldn't get it. No biggie though, they're plentiful and cheap.
- I got an A9P today
- I painted the grille a few weeks ago. Looks good but I need to paint behind it when I take it off.
- Me and a buddy are gonna prep the body to be pulled saturday. I can't pull it off yet because I need the floor space to build the feeders.
- I got a heck of a deal on a 20' gooseneck I bought monday. Took it home, wire-wheeled it, and threw a coat of paint on. Looks brand new;D
- I'm sure I left out a few things, but you get the idea.

 

[Nightstick]

Note the name change on the thread title, "black and tan" seemed a little boring.

I'm in the process of piecing the 351 back together. The body should be off in the next few weeks, and I've ordered/purchased a few other parts.

 

[Ohio Bronco 21]

Keep it going. When I build one I have always kept a log of my daily work and any ideas that come up, helps when I get pulled away for a while.

 

[Nightstick]

I got most of the things disconnected today in order to pull the body. It got a little warm so I quit working for the day. I also rattle-canned the tailgate emblem. Looks like shit up close, and I messed it up when I was pulling the tape off. Nothing special, but I figured I'd post a pic so you guys will know who it is when we're on the trails cuz the ass end is all you'll see as I'm pulling away from ya;D

 

[Nightstick]

Dirt, dirt, and more dirt

I got the steering column, aux tank, and a few other odds and ends pulled today. I'm seriously thinking this rig NEVER got a bath. I was covered head to toe in Louisiana mud by the end of the day!!!

I also got all the other projects done this morning, so now most of my time can be devoted to the Bronco. I should have the body pulled next weekend and should have all the chassis done by early October. Deer season is quickly approaching though...

 

[Nightstick]

I need some help with choosing the right parts, and getting everything I need to install the parts I've chosen. If y'all could take a look at the below list and add any parts required to make each one work. All parts on this list are from BC Broncos, and I'll be picking them up next month...

Ceramic Shorty Headers
Bronco Script Valve covers
351W Oil Pan
Ring and Pinion for 9" 4.88gears
Ring and Pinion for D44 4.88gears
RJM EFI Harness
RJM EGR Eliminator
RJM 3G Harness
ZF Hydraulic clutch kit
1/2 quart accumulator
In-tank High pressure pump
23 gal tank (internal pump)
Magnaflow 2 into 1 exhaust
Lower steering shaft w/ u joints
Manifold adapter
Deluxe Fuel Line kit

Here's the questions I have so far.
1. Do I need the manifold adapter if I'm using a Lightning Lower or is it only required for other truck manifolds?
2. What length steering shaft do I need? I'll be using the 4x4x2 PS box with factory column shift column.
3. Since I'm using GT40 heads do I need 351 or 302 Headers and exhaust?
4. Besides nuts/bolts, what odds and ends do I need to install all the above items?

I'll be getting third member rebuild kits elsewhere, and axles at a later date.

 

[70EB]

Some answers below.

I need some help with choosing the right parts, and getting everything I need to install the parts I've chosen. If y'all could take a look at the below list and add any parts required to make each one work. All parts on this list are from BC Broncos, and I'll be picking them up next month...

Ceramic Shorty Headers (get the ones with the flanges. I still have sealing problems with my flangless ones)
Bronco Script Valve covers (I do not think these are EFI specific)
351W Oil Pan (should come with new pickup that is specific to the pan)
Ring and Pinion for 9" 4.88gears (master install kits?)
Ring and Pinion for D44 4.88gears
RJM EFI Harness
RJM EGR Eliminator
RJM 3G Harness
ZF Hydraulic clutch kit
1/2 quart accumulator (why are you running an accumulator if you are using an in-tank pump? no need. Just use the HP in-tank pump. Accumulators are used when running a LP pump feeding a HP pump)
In-tank High pressure pump
23 gal tank (internal pump)
Magnaflow 2 into 1 exhaust
Lower steering shaft w/ u joints
Manifold adapter (not needed with Lightning lower to GT40 upper, Cobra upper or Explorer. only used to mate up a truck lower to Mustang upper)
Deluxe Fuel Line kit

Here's the questions I have so far.
1. Do I need the manifold adapter if I'm using a Lightning Lower or is it only required for other truck manifolds? Assuming you are using a GT40/Cobra/Explorer upper - then NO
2. What length steering shaft do I need? I'll be using the 4x4x2 PS box with factory column shift column.
3. Since I'm using GT40 heads do I need 351 or 302 Headers and exhaust? If using the BCB headers, then no difference. Most headers work with Ford Smallblock (289/302/351W).
4. Besides nuts/bolts, what odds and ends do I need to install all the above items? Gaskets for heads, lower intake, upper intake, TB. PCV and hoses, vacuum hoses for brakes, EFI FPR, etc. What fuel rails are you running? Need adapters for the rails to rubber or braided lines to the BCB kit - or get their new braided line kit also.

I'll be getting third member rebuild kits elsewhere, and axles at a later date.