I got a few hours to work on Irene today. I think I have most of the trim and badges I'm not planning on using sold. Had a hell of a time getting the front clip removed. Rust can be a true B#%CH at times. I'm going to have a hell of a time removing the bolts which hold the grille to the fenders. The clips broke so it just spins with a ratchet. I can get a pair of vice grips on the two upper bolts to hold the broken clip in place, but the other three on each side have me scratching my head. I MIGHT be a ble to get my small angle grinder in there to grind down the head. Don't want to fire up the sparkle wrench because I'll run the risk of blowing through the sheetmetal.
The door post on PS is toast as you can tell in the pics. The DS is good, but it looks like it was replaced at one time going by the beautiful welds in the pics. I wonder if it was hit at one time and an OEM door post was used. You can see the remnants of an old sticker, but can't make it out at all.
On a side note, I'm using the molasses bath method to remove heavy rust for some small parts. Gonna get a bigger container in the near future to do the bigger suspension parts. I think it's better than media blasting because it's much cheaper. I paid $8.00 for a gallon of molasses at Tractor Supply, and only used a 1/4 of it. The mix should be between 7-10 parts water to 1 part molasses. It's supposed to last around six months. It WILL bring fruit flies so store in a place that is secluded and you don't mind tons of fruit flies hanging around. Those tiny black spots around the rim are the bucket are dead fruit flies. It's getting colder in PA so they will be going by-by for a few moths. It's also easier to do. Nothing like leaving in a vat to go about your other Bronco priorities and come back a couple of weeks later with the rust gone. I've done it on a few parts so far and would recommend it to anyone. I'll get you the after pics in a couple of weeks. One negative is that it does not remove paint from parts.