Proportioning Valve

[EarlyElway]

I just installed a new disc brake conversion kit that I ordered from JBG.

I ordered the one that came with the proportioning valve and this is the last thing I need to do before bleeding the lines to see how the new brakes operate.

I understand the location for the valve is on the engine frame below the steering column which is a paint to get to. It also appears that there is already some sort of OEM valve there that is different than the one they sent me.

My question is two fold:

1.)Can I just hook the brakes back up without putting the new proportioning valve and if so will there be a significant lack of performance?

2.)If I were to install the new proportioning valve up closer to the master cylinder with a drop bracket can I leave the hardware(valve) that's attached to the frame or will this also affect the performance?

I am trying to avoid having to work in that tight space and fear the I may damage the brake lines in trying to remove it and I don't want to run lines.

Thanks!

 

[Nightstick]

Post a pic or link to what you just bought, and what's on your rig. Unless someone changed it, the thing that's on it is an H-Block. Prop valves are slightly different. If you upgraded your front brakes to disc, you should either throw in a prop valve, or do the master cylnder mod, or both. If you have the original lines on there, make sure you use a line wrench to take the lines off. Open end wrenches will round off the corners of the fittings quicker than hell.

 

[SteveL]

Did they send you an adjustable prop valve or the stock 76-77 dictionary drum valve? If the stock one I would just bolt it to the frame where it goes. Save the h-block you have in case you go 4whl disc at some point. If you go 4 who disc swap it back to. The old drum/dr9me block

 

[jckkys]

Read this service guide on the combination valves;
http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/combination-valve-brake.html
After reading it, you'll know why you may want it.

 

[EarlyElway]

Post a pic or link to what you just bought, and what's on your rig. Unless someone changed it, the thing that's on it is an H-Block. Prop valves are slightly different. If you upgraded your front brakes to disc, you should either throw in a prop valve, or do the master cylnder mod, or both. If you have the original lines on there, make sure you use a line wrench to take the lines off. Open end wrenches will round off the corners of the fittings quicker than hell.

What do you mean by master cylinder mod? I actually put a new master cylinder in that is supposedly for a front disc brake conversion. I'm fairly certain that what is on the frame now is an H-block as it is H shaped and appears to be original.

 

[Nightstick]

If you have disc front, drum rear, and an MC for that setup, just throw the proportioning valve on there and call it good. I haven't done the MC mod on the factory MC, but if you do a search you'll find it fairly easily. If you have disc/disc you can use the H block...

First pic is an H block, second is a prop valve

 

[Tiko433]

I just did this about two weeks ago

This is how mine is mounted. Works fine , the kits works great. Sorry for the slide ways pic

 

[savage]

This is where I put mine.

 

[DirtDonk]

Nightstick's is a clean install considering he's got headers. And that's the kicker sometimes, as header tubes can get real close to a frame mounted prop valve.
I prefer the higher mounts like the others showed for that reason alone. But add to that the more easily accessible spot, and you have a winner.
Really though, how much access to you need for a part you may (or hope to) never touch again over the life of the truck? But protection from heat is always a good thing.

I think most opt to custom make their brake lines to fit it up high, but there are in fact kits to mount this "stock" type valve up on or near the master as well. It's an item we should be carrying in my opinion, but still only have the stock type frame mount brackets as far as I know.

Yes, they can be utilized together for ease of plumbing, but I'm pretty sure that most install a prop valve in place of the original H-valve and not in addition to. So not sure if there is much data on what works best and why.
Heck, most of this stuff ends up being custom modified by the end-user anyway!

Good luck.

Paul

 

[DJs74]

Nightstick's is a clean install considering he's got headers. And that's the kicker sometimes, as header tubes can get real close to a frame mounted prop valve.
I prefer the higher mounts like the others showed for that reason alone. But add to that the more easily accessible spot, and you have a winner.
Really though, how much access to you need for a part you may (or hope to) never touch again over the life of the truck? But protection from heat is always a good thing.

I think most opt to custom make their brake lines to fit it up high, but there are in fact kits to mount this "stock" type valve up on or near the master as well. It's an item we should be carrying in my opinion, but still only have the stock type frame mount brackets as far as I know.

Yes, they can be utilized together for ease of plumbing, but I'm pretty sure that most install a prop valve in place of the original H-valve and not in addition to. So not sure if there is much data on what works best and why.
Heck, most of this stuff ends up being custom modified by the end-user anyway!

Good luck.

Paul

I'll suggest to pick a mounting position for the proportioning valve where you can get to it easily in case it leaks. As Paul says... you would "hope" to mount it and never look back but these things have a terrible track record of leaking after very few miles. Me and others (maybe Paul too) has been bitten by this bug. Mine leaked after about 100 miles out of the front valve with the rubber plug / cover

Do yourself and favor and mount it somewhere convenient... just in case!



DJs74

 

[EarlyElway]

I appreciate the advice guys. My preference was to mount it up near the MC, however my kit did not come with that mounting bracket, I know they are easy to find, just want to wrap this project up.

If the H-block needs to come out which seems to be the suggested method it makes sense, to me, to just remount the new pro valve in its place down on the frame. My hope was to avoid working in that area at all but it doesn't appear that anyone knows for sure how the pro valve and H-block would work in conjunction but my suspicion is, not well.

Unless I can get a bracket to mount to the MC in short order I'll probably just mount it to the frame.

Thank!

 

[DJs74]

I appreciate the advice guys. My preference was to mount it up near the MC, however my kit did not come with that mounting bracket, I know they are easy to find, just want to wrap this project up.

If the H-block needs to come out which seems to be the suggested method it makes sense, to me, to just remount the new pro valve in its place down on the frame. My hope was to avoid working in that area at all but it doesn't appear that anyone knows for sure how the pro valve and H-block would work in conjunction but my suspicion is, not well.

Unless I can get a bracket to mount to the MC in short order I'll probably just mount it to the frame.

Thank!

I think the principle behind the new proportioning valve is to distribute fluid appropriately to the two different philosophies of the brakes types... One being disc / one being drum. I'm not 100% sure but I think if you were to convert the rear to disc brakes at some point, you might be able to go back to the "H" block. I guess as long as the front and rear brakes are consistent types, you can use the "H" and as long as they are different, disc/drum, you have to use the provided proportioning valve.

But that is an assumption based on reading not doing


DJs74

 

[Nightstick]

I think the principle behind the new proportioning valve is to distribute fluid appropriately to the two different philosophies of the brakes types... One being disc / one being drum. I'm not 100% sure but I think if you were to convert the rear to disc brakes at some point, you might be able to go back to the "H" block. I guess as long as the front and rear brakes are consistent types, you can use the "H" and as long as they are different, disc/drum, you have to use the provided proportioning valve.

But that is an assumption based on reading not doing


DJs74

Correct, it's an either or thing, not use both.

Paul, I didn't even think to mount it in a different location, but wish I would have since it leaked from the get go. Might be a good mod later on. I cut out the wheel wells though, so mine is fairly accessible.

 

[EarlyElway]

Well fellas I got it in last night and it really wasn't to bad. I ended up cutting some of the old brake lines as I couldn't break the flare net loose.

I have all lines hooked up except one short one for the front brakes. I should have that done tonight and be ready to bleed the lines and see if it all works.

Thanks for all your help.

 

[EarlyElway]

I got it all in and installed in the frame mounted location. For any future guys who may be reading this I would recommend a location that is more accessible and re running lines.

Also I answered my own question regarding the necessity of the prop valve. It is an absolute must. You really notice the difference when you start adjusting the metering valve and the front braking starts kicking in hard.

Fantastic upgrade going to front disc brakes. I would recommend it to anyone who is thinking about it.

Thanks for all the help guys.