Radiator with input and output on Passanger side???

[benkokes]

Hey all,

Does anyone know of a decent radiator with the inlet and outlet on the passanger side?? I have the York compressor on it and I had to do some funky coolant tube routing to get it to fit into the neck of the radiator AND it seems that a portion of the tube is above the radiator cap (giving way to air constantly being in the system)..
Any ideas?

Thanks!

 

[blackbeauty]

Here is one. http://store.summitracing.com/defau...4294862038+4294883015+4294883014&autoview=sku

 

[benkokes]

Thanks man

I think I am looking for something in the non-alum flavor. It just seems that a 4 core is the way to go...

Ya think a radiator shop can build one for under 250?

 

[bronx]

Ron Davis has a rad like that. It's aluminum though, but it's the best on the market. It is in the $250 range that you are looking for.


Bronx

 

[Buckin74]

benkokes

First problem with this combination is that fluid will not pass through the radiator, rather travel mostly in the passenger tank and out. Unless the tank is baffled or directed to force the fluid through the core this sytem won't work, so having a radiator shop move the inlet or outlet ports will be useless.

Maybe a radiator with a sepintine design will allow the inlet/outlet port positions work out much better for you. Or you can have your local shop switch ports to the serpintine locations.

Good luck

 

[bmc69]

I think I am looking for something in the non-alum flavor. It just seems that a 4 core is the way to go...

Ya think a radiator shop can build one for under 250?

I bought one like the Summit option from Universal for about $249 (wish I had known Summit had them even cheaper...). All of the cross-flow radiators with inlet and outlet on the same sides are two-pass models, with the tank divided by a plate halfway down. And all I have seen are aluminum. I suppose a good radiaotr shop could work the same design in copper but certainly not for anything close to $250..at least not around me. The last time a had a standard EB copper radiator in our local raddy shop for just a recore (fan ate core), they stuck me for more than I could have bought a new one for..it was around $310 if I recall.

 

[supercoupe5]

when i put a 350 in my heep years ago i took my copper (factory) rad to a good shop and they moved the outlet to where i needed it for about 20 or 25 bucks

 

[bmc69]

As previously noted, you cannot put both the inlet and outlet on the same tank (or side) in a side-tank, cross-flow radiator without also adding a tank divider internally. I suppose a good radiator shop could do that as well..it is super easy to add tank baffles in aluminum ones, that much I do know.

 

[Sac '68 sport]

I had the same problem.
I had a radiator shop build me one with a high effecency 3 core and a baffle in the pass. side tank to route the fluid all the way through the radiator. It was a little less than the Alum. RD and more than a stock unit. I think they charged $20-25 for the baffle and $20-25 to put the hole on the other side. Works good in the heat, espically with 80-90% water and some water-wetter in it.
Didn't have to modify anything to get it in.
Difficult part is getting an upper hose that fits right. Right now I'm using a flex hose, but it's a pretty tight bend it has to make so I get a little kink.
Still looking for a stocker that will fit better if anyone has any ideas.

 

[blackbeauty]

If you are looking for a stock radiator you might call http://broncograveyard.com and see if they could have one built at a reasonable price.

The Griffin radiator stated above has a tank divider. It has two 1" core (1-28182-X) and was told is good for around 300 hp. The (1-58182-X) two 1 1/4" core is good for 550hp(the one I bought).
FWIW, I call Griffin and got it even cheaper than what summit sells it for.
If you can get a Ron Davis for around that same price, I would go with the Ron Davis radiator.